Auto to manual
Discussion
If you have a Manual car to take the parts from it's quite easy, last one I did was done in a weekend, dropped the manual engine and box out the bottom complete on its subframe, then installed in the auto car, swapped the peddle box over etc.
Not much more work than doing an engine change.
Not much more work than doing an engine change.
Best just to change the whole lump rather than try to 'mix & match'. Don't forget you'll need the pedal box and remember how difficult it is to fit those clevis pins on the brake and clutch master cylinder shafts (the worst job on a Mini?). Whilst it's all out on the floor, it may be a good idea to go for the early pre-verto flywheel and clutch, but if you do, remember to change the flywheel starter ring (or the starter motor) as they are not interchangeable.
It's a good idea to use an Aeroquip clutch pipe as well to the new slave cylinder.
Ideally change the front sub-frame as well. Remember also that the later injection cars had the engine about 1/2" further forward and to revert to the earlier configuration means that you need a shorter top engine-steady bar and a longer lower engine steady. The holes for both mounting positions are there in later sub-frames.
The trouble is, when you take engine/box and sub-frame out, you find lots of other little jobs and improvements you can easily make at the same time and end up spending a small fortune. For example, solid sub-frame mounts, neg camber lower arm bushes, ultimate engine steady, etc, etc. Still, it's nice when it's all done.
It's a good idea to use an Aeroquip clutch pipe as well to the new slave cylinder.
Ideally change the front sub-frame as well. Remember also that the later injection cars had the engine about 1/2" further forward and to revert to the earlier configuration means that you need a shorter top engine-steady bar and a longer lower engine steady. The holes for both mounting positions are there in later sub-frames.
The trouble is, when you take engine/box and sub-frame out, you find lots of other little jobs and improvements you can easily make at the same time and end up spending a small fortune. For example, solid sub-frame mounts, neg camber lower arm bushes, ultimate engine steady, etc, etc. Still, it's nice when it's all done.
I Changed my mini from auto to manual.
It is very easy to do you dont even have to change the front sub frame, unless you want to.
You need to make a one change to the sub frame and you need to modify the engine mounts.
You need to modify the sub frame as the driver’s side engine mount on a auto is different. To change bolt in a normal engine mount to the back hole in the sub frame, and then make sure it is square then mark and drill a new hole in the frame.
Secondly the auto front sub frame is wider than the manual so i made up 2 1/4inch plates (1 for each side)to go between the engine mount and the engine I then used a engine mount to mark out the 3 holes needed.
The extra width of an auto frame makes doing some jobs just a little bit easier.
With the pedal box there is a way of doing it without taking out the dreaded spilt pin on the brake master. Most of the pedal box is the same you can undo the nut on the end of the long shaft, you can then remove the spacer and return spring. Then you take the clutch pedal and spring from a normal pedal box and fit in the car. I would recommend fitting a new nut.
I thing I dont think anyone mentioned this yet but you need to change do something with the inhibitor switch leads. There are two ways of doing this 1 just join the 2 wires. Or you can put a switch on the lead and hide it to give yourself a crude immobilizer.
It is very easy to do you dont even have to change the front sub frame, unless you want to.
You need to make a one change to the sub frame and you need to modify the engine mounts.
You need to modify the sub frame as the driver’s side engine mount on a auto is different. To change bolt in a normal engine mount to the back hole in the sub frame, and then make sure it is square then mark and drill a new hole in the frame.
Secondly the auto front sub frame is wider than the manual so i made up 2 1/4inch plates (1 for each side)to go between the engine mount and the engine I then used a engine mount to mark out the 3 holes needed.
The extra width of an auto frame makes doing some jobs just a little bit easier.
With the pedal box there is a way of doing it without taking out the dreaded spilt pin on the brake master. Most of the pedal box is the same you can undo the nut on the end of the long shaft, you can then remove the spacer and return spring. Then you take the clutch pedal and spring from a normal pedal box and fit in the car. I would recommend fitting a new nut.
I thing I dont think anyone mentioned this yet but you need to change do something with the inhibitor switch leads. There are two ways of doing this 1 just join the 2 wires. Or you can put a switch on the lead and hide it to give yourself a crude immobilizer.
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