306 HDi Rattling noise
Discussion
I have a high mileage 2000 306 HDi - i have no service history and it has just started making a rattling noise from the cambelt side of the engine - i thought it was a tensioner and was going to do a belt kit change on Friday but now I have also been told it could be a bottom pulley.
When the engine is cold the rattle is awful and quite obtrusive but when its warmed up you hear it come in at around 2000rpm and is much quieter.
A cambelt kit is just under £80 whereas the bottom pulley can be obtained for around £70 - i dont which one to do first, apparently the pulley is only a 30 minute job which makes me lean in that direction.
Any help is much appreciated.
Thanks
When the engine is cold the rattle is awful and quite obtrusive but when its warmed up you hear it come in at around 2000rpm and is much quieter.
A cambelt kit is just under £80 whereas the bottom pulley can be obtained for around £70 - i dont which one to do first, apparently the pulley is only a 30 minute job which makes me lean in that direction.
Any help is much appreciated.
Thanks
crank pulley is a common failure, there are 3 different ones, each replacing the last as a design improvement, the best ones to have have no slots in the face (they are like a dual mass clutch)
the rubber in the breaks down and spits a nice shard of metal either into the camblet side or towards the wheel.....either way not good
a tapping, more noticable when cold is a sign of it going, as is orange/yellow dust around the pulley.
as for changing it, it takes 30 mins or so....nice and easy, i paid £120 for the new part from peugeot as they were not avaliable from 3rd parties then....but they are now
the rubber in the breaks down and spits a nice shard of metal either into the camblet side or towards the wheel.....either way not good
a tapping, more noticable when cold is a sign of it going, as is orange/yellow dust around the pulley.
as for changing it, it takes 30 mins or so....nice and easy, i paid £120 for the new part from peugeot as they were not avaliable from 3rd parties then....but they are now
yep basically, remove the arch liner and access is easy
however i would get a new bolt, or at least some more locking compound for the old one (new ones come with it on)
the bolt will not want to move, my solution was as follows, put it in 5th gear, and get somebody to hold on the brakes (car will obviously be on axel stands for this)
then position a breaker bar onto the bolt, and place a jack at the end, then jack the breaker bar up, it will lift the engine on the mounts and the weight will eventually break the bolt loose, other than that it's a very easy job
however i would get a new bolt, or at least some more locking compound for the old one (new ones come with it on)
the bolt will not want to move, my solution was as follows, put it in 5th gear, and get somebody to hold on the brakes (car will obviously be on axel stands for this)
then position a breaker bar onto the bolt, and place a jack at the end, then jack the breaker bar up, it will lift the engine on the mounts and the weight will eventually break the bolt loose, other than that it's a very easy job
Excellent, i have access to full workshop facilities so i think i'll get the big air gun on the bolt - that shifts most things - I have plenty of red loctite so i dont think that will be a problem.
Thanks for the tips.
I'm guessing i'll have to take the auxiliary belt and cambelt covers to access the tensioner in order to slacken the belt - hopefully shouldnt be too bad.
I appreciate the help.
Thanks for the tips.
I'm guessing i'll have to take the auxiliary belt and cambelt covers to access the tensioner in order to slacken the belt - hopefully shouldnt be too bad.
I appreciate the help.
no no no...you dont need to go anywhere near the cambelt, the bottom pulley drives the aux belt, just loosen that (or take it off)
whip the bolt out and put the new one one, if you have an airgun then it will take 15 mins....just enjoy breaking the clips that hold the arch liner on
they separate over time and tick....you will be able to see a shiny surface on the face of it where it's wearing away, and eventually it will spit out a nice shard of metal that can do no damage (if it heads outwards) or cut the cambelt....
i bought OEM, my car is on 47k and has had 2 already...now on the newest and supposedly best design....but quite expensive
2 slot ones were the first, then they put 3 slots, and now no slots....dont know if somebody bought a cheap one previously but it didnt last long....20k or so i would guess
whip the bolt out and put the new one one, if you have an airgun then it will take 15 mins....just enjoy breaking the clips that hold the arch liner on
they separate over time and tick....you will be able to see a shiny surface on the face of it where it's wearing away, and eventually it will spit out a nice shard of metal that can do no damage (if it heads outwards) or cut the cambelt....
i bought OEM, my car is on 47k and has had 2 already...now on the newest and supposedly best design....but quite expensive
2 slot ones were the first, then they put 3 slots, and now no slots....dont know if somebody bought a cheap one previously but it didnt last long....20k or so i would guess
Edited by Matthew_Eames on Wednesday 13th February 15:23
yeah, the other thing it the injectors do tick....and it's more noticable when cold
mine is on 47k and returning proper fuel economy, so there is nothing wrong with them, but they do tick until 3100rpm when it stops (the fuel pump uses 3 pistons then rather than 2 it uses before that RPM, and stops the sound for some reason)
others have reported the same problem, regardless of mileage just a characteristic of the engine and not a cause for worry...just a bit annoying mind you
mine is on 47k and returning proper fuel economy, so there is nothing wrong with them, but they do tick until 3100rpm when it stops (the fuel pump uses 3 pistons then rather than 2 it uses before that RPM, and stops the sound for some reason)
others have reported the same problem, regardless of mileage just a characteristic of the engine and not a cause for worry...just a bit annoying mind you
We've just bought a HDi with the same symtoms as the OP.
The car came from a dealer (non pug) and had a noise when we looked at it, that say said might be the cambelt, and that they would correct for us.
- They then investicated and found it to the aux belt, and replaced the crankshaft pulley and the tensioner. And also replaced the camblet while there where at it.
However is still makes the noise, a rattly sound on the cambelt side, that stops abover around 1200rpm (900rpm tickover).
Investicatigation on my part reveals it to be the aux tensioner still. Which shakes like to a blur at tickover, improving gradually till about 1200 where is settles dead still.
- So to the op, i would recomend looking down the side of the engine while its running, and have a look at said tensioner on your car.
- Then if it is shaking a bit, while looking at it, increase the revs (turning the throttle from under the bonnet) and see if the noise coresponds to that.
However, from here, i dont know what we're going to do with ours, other than take it back to the garage.
- The tensioner and main pulley are new, so what else could it be. Bar maybe a dicky PAS/Aircon pump. Or the whole engine running rough?
The 806 (also 2l hdi) doesnt have this problem, although i did suffer a collapsed crankshaft pulley while offroading in devon.
- Queue driving it a mile in that state to get into roads, having the scariest time ever geting a tow from the aa's van to tauntondean, and a 6hour kip in the cab of a recovary truck all the way back to cheshire.
Daniel
The car came from a dealer (non pug) and had a noise when we looked at it, that say said might be the cambelt, and that they would correct for us.
- They then investicated and found it to the aux belt, and replaced the crankshaft pulley and the tensioner. And also replaced the camblet while there where at it.
However is still makes the noise, a rattly sound on the cambelt side, that stops abover around 1200rpm (900rpm tickover).
Investicatigation on my part reveals it to be the aux tensioner still. Which shakes like to a blur at tickover, improving gradually till about 1200 where is settles dead still.
- So to the op, i would recomend looking down the side of the engine while its running, and have a look at said tensioner on your car.
- Then if it is shaking a bit, while looking at it, increase the revs (turning the throttle from under the bonnet) and see if the noise coresponds to that.
However, from here, i dont know what we're going to do with ours, other than take it back to the garage.
- The tensioner and main pulley are new, so what else could it be. Bar maybe a dicky PAS/Aircon pump. Or the whole engine running rough?
The 806 (also 2l hdi) doesnt have this problem, although i did suffer a collapsed crankshaft pulley while offroading in devon.
- Queue driving it a mile in that state to get into roads, having the scariest time ever geting a tow from the aa's van to tauntondean, and a 6hour kip in the cab of a recovary truck all the way back to cheshire.
Daniel
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