Discussion
Nope - nbt the drugs!
Have Morgan Aero 8 with Hydratrack LSD fitted.
~I know some of the TVR crew have replaced the hydratrack with the quaife repacement.
Thinking of doing the same and would be interested to hear the experiences of anyone who has done so?
Tend to find that the Aero is somewhat ragged in a slide and hard to gather up, and figure that this change should mean the car slides later, and hopefully more progressively. Does that sound realistic?
Have Morgan Aero 8 with Hydratrack LSD fitted.
~I know some of the TVR crew have replaced the hydratrack with the quaife repacement.
Thinking of doing the same and would be interested to hear the experiences of anyone who has done so?
Tend to find that the Aero is somewhat ragged in a slide and hard to gather up, and figure that this change should mean the car slides later, and hopefully more progressively. Does that sound realistic?
mr_tony said:
Nope - nbt the drugs!
Have Morgan Aero 8 with Hydratrack LSD fitted.
~I know some of the TVR crew have replaced the hydratrack with the quaife repacement.
Thinking of doing the same and would be interested to hear the experiences of anyone who has done so?
Tend to find that the Aero is somewhat ragged in a slide and hard to gather up, and figure that this change should mean the car slides later, and hopefully more progressively. Does that sound realistic?
Hydratrak is a way superior device and your issue is one of chassis tuning, NOT the LSD.Have Morgan Aero 8 with Hydratrack LSD fitted.
~I know some of the TVR crew have replaced the hydratrack with the quaife repacement.
Thinking of doing the same and would be interested to hear the experiences of anyone who has done so?
Tend to find that the Aero is somewhat ragged in a slide and hard to gather up, and figure that this change should mean the car slides later, and hopefully more progressively. Does that sound realistic?
Thanks for the response Gavin.
Can I ask why so many TVR owners (50 od or so) have been to Quaife for the hydratrack replacement?
Quaife certainly suggest that their replacement (of course) is superior and provides a greater level of predictability regardless of temperature.
I'm not particularly clued up about this kind of thing, but I'd assume there has to be a reason people are replacing them at 600 quid plus when they have perfectly servicable hydratrack units on their Cerbs?
The unit I'm referring to is the QDH4M.
Can I ask why so many TVR owners (50 od or so) have been to Quaife for the hydratrack replacement?
Quaife certainly suggest that their replacement (of course) is superior and provides a greater level of predictability regardless of temperature.
I'm not particularly clued up about this kind of thing, but I'd assume there has to be a reason people are replacing them at 600 quid plus when they have perfectly servicable hydratrack units on their Cerbs?
The unit I'm referring to is the QDH4M.
I don't know if there is an issue with the tuning on the TVR, but I would say that in general terms the Hydratrak is a very good unit. It limits wheelspin to a set rpm, rather than having a bias ratio, so it copes very well with wet weather.
Somebody like myself doing engineering work at an OE level has literally months to play with the tuning on these devices, and we can overcome a traction issue exiting a high speed corner by choosing the right combination of diff tune, suspension settings, etc.
An owner with limited funds des not have the luxury of time or big budgets so they spend their money on what somebody they respect thinks is a good option. It may well be that the suspension settings chosen do not work with the Hydratrak.
A diff change will not fix a chassis problem. Fix the problem, don't change the diff.
Somebody like myself doing engineering work at an OE level has literally months to play with the tuning on these devices, and we can overcome a traction issue exiting a high speed corner by choosing the right combination of diff tune, suspension settings, etc.
An owner with limited funds des not have the luxury of time or big budgets so they spend their money on what somebody they respect thinks is a good option. It may well be that the suspension settings chosen do not work with the Hydratrak.
A diff change will not fix a chassis problem. Fix the problem, don't change the diff.
Hi i am interested to note your comments on chassis tuning/hydratrack diffs.
i have just bought a tuscan challenge car with hydratrack diff and some of your comments surprise me.
i am an ARDS instructor race Bars instructor rally,and recently am instructing drifting. i say this only to show that i have to drive plated/welded/atb/etc diffed cars sideways on track /rally often and get a quick idea (before spinning!) of their characteristics.
yesterday i was instructing at oulton park and was driving a customers tuscan with a hydratrack and it was almost impossible to control in the wet as the diff (when sliding the car under moderate power) violently threw the car the opposite way when just easing back on the throttle.(as if you had lifted suddenly) causing a spin.....1st spin in hundreds of demo laps in scores of cars!
My challenge car suffers from wheelspin and a similar snatching diff.....as experienced by most early challenge competitors using hydratrack which is why they ALL changed to plated or earlier gkn fix.
I am reluctant therefore to agree with your view as some of these teams cars were set up with penske/ohlins manufacturer help and i assure you the front runners tried hundreds of set ups over 18 years.....nobody used hydratrack as the diff IS more unpredictable on track.
The technical design may be efficient on paper but fortunately teams listen to drivers as they both want fater lap times ultimately.
i do concur people tend not to tune their chassis properly and its more important than power sometimes. Please,therefore take care when extolling hydratrack to others.....i would be happier slower with worn shocks and bad setup than spat off the track !
i have just bought a tuscan challenge car with hydratrack diff and some of your comments surprise me.
i am an ARDS instructor race Bars instructor rally,and recently am instructing drifting. i say this only to show that i have to drive plated/welded/atb/etc diffed cars sideways on track /rally often and get a quick idea (before spinning!) of their characteristics.
yesterday i was instructing at oulton park and was driving a customers tuscan with a hydratrack and it was almost impossible to control in the wet as the diff (when sliding the car under moderate power) violently threw the car the opposite way when just easing back on the throttle.(as if you had lifted suddenly) causing a spin.....1st spin in hundreds of demo laps in scores of cars!
My challenge car suffers from wheelspin and a similar snatching diff.....as experienced by most early challenge competitors using hydratrack which is why they ALL changed to plated or earlier gkn fix.
I am reluctant therefore to agree with your view as some of these teams cars were set up with penske/ohlins manufacturer help and i assure you the front runners tried hundreds of set ups over 18 years.....nobody used hydratrack as the diff IS more unpredictable on track.
The technical design may be efficient on paper but fortunately teams listen to drivers as they both want fater lap times ultimately.
i do concur people tend not to tune their chassis properly and its more important than power sometimes. Please,therefore take care when extolling hydratrack to others.....i would be happier slower with worn shocks and bad setup than spat off the track !
I can't comment on the hydratrack, but in my Rush, going from a basic Cosworth viscous LSD to a quaife ATB was a marked improvement. Accelerating on wet roads, the car used to twitch as small amount of friction on each rear wheel varied. Some of this can be put down to the LSD probably being a little too stiff for the lighter load, I guess. Any-hoo, I find my ATB helps to manage the power a lot better than the old diff, and the transition from open to lock is seemless. Costly, but good bit of kit.
Dave.
Dave.
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