Noob questions on building a GTR
Discussion
Hi, am new to the whole topic, but very interested in getting one of these "toys".
I have some questions about the GTR.
(I am sure the answeres are somewhere in this forum already, but I did not find them.)
1) Parts and options
I received two lists from Ted. One was kind of minumum for a GTR, the other kind of included everything.
What from the all included list can be taken out without regretting it later?
(from the expensive parts I will for sure take the 12.7" brakes, the AC, the cage)
But how about the Accusump kit (what is it good for)?
I planned to leave away the rear wing (at least for the moment) and the tyres.
2) registration of the car
I want to use it on the street.
I live in Germany.
Has anybody experience to register a GTR in Germany?
If so, is there anything I have to consider before starting to build my GTR?
What is the additional cost I have to plan for shipping the parts from Ultima to Germany (customs, tax and so on)?
How much do I have to plan for the registration and for TÜV?
3) for curiosity:
How much gas does it consume on 100km?
(I know it depends on HP, driving style and so on, so rough figure will do.)
Thanks for the patience and reading the whole article.
Thanks especially to those who share there knowledge with me.
Greetings,
Martin
I have some questions about the GTR.
(I am sure the answeres are somewhere in this forum already, but I did not find them.)
1) Parts and options
I received two lists from Ted. One was kind of minumum for a GTR, the other kind of included everything.
What from the all included list can be taken out without regretting it later?
(from the expensive parts I will for sure take the 12.7" brakes, the AC, the cage)
But how about the Accusump kit (what is it good for)?
I planned to leave away the rear wing (at least for the moment) and the tyres.
2) registration of the car
I want to use it on the street.
I live in Germany.
Has anybody experience to register a GTR in Germany?
If so, is there anything I have to consider before starting to build my GTR?
What is the additional cost I have to plan for shipping the parts from Ultima to Germany (customs, tax and so on)?
How much do I have to plan for the registration and for TÜV?
3) for curiosity:
How much gas does it consume on 100km?
(I know it depends on HP, driving style and so on, so rough figure will do.)
Thanks for the patience and reading the whole article.
Thanks especially to those who share there knowledge with me.
Greetings,
Martin
I suspect getting the parts delivered to Germany should not be that much more than I paid to get them to Aberdeen (£320 per trip for a covered flatbed truck organised by factory - you may pay extra for the ferry)
I heard that getting kit cars registered in Germany not easy due to strict TUV regulations. Maybe you could trailer car when complete to factory for UK registration and then take home as street legal car from another EC country? Must be some way round it.
I heard that getting kit cars registered in Germany not easy due to strict TUV regulations. Maybe you could trailer car when complete to factory for UK registration and then take home as street legal car from another EC country? Must be some way round it.
Martin
Welcome to the forum.
The Accusump is a pressurised oil reservoir which fills with 6 pints of oil at engine pressure. Should you lose pressure from oil surge under braking or hard cornering then the oil from the Accusump is forced into the engine to maintain the pressure. Also when you switch off a valve closes keeping the oil in the Accusump. When you next start the engine you instantly have oil pressure before the engine turns. This device may save an expensive engine.
Some of the stages listed could be sourced locally.
2. You could buy your own ali. Sheet as I did for both this stage and the double skin kit.
6. You could find hubs from the German model equivalent to the UK Ford Granada. Then buy new bearings locally.
7. You could do the brake lines in rigid pipe.
12. You could source these yourself but be aware that much testing has gone into the factory choice resulting in shocks with valve size/settings specific for the Ultima.
13. These may look like standard Ford shafts but are in fact up rated and a most definite requirement if you are looking at the higher power levels.
14. You’r a bold man if you want to go and do your own wiring. It can be done but the factory loom is actually quite cheap and is a good starting point if you want to add further circuits.
15. Pay the extra and get the body de-flashed and buffed. This is a hell of a lot of work and only viable if you are good at body repair type work.
The RAC roll cage is worth doing if only to stop you trying to slip under the back of a truck.
I made my own luggage containers but it was not easy without proper sheet bending machines etc.
You will leave yourself a lot of work trying to find alternative wheels and tyres. Take a look at the photos again, the wheels are a millimetre fit in the arches and the whole appearance of the car depends on this. It can be done.
Steve
Welcome to the forum.
The Accusump is a pressurised oil reservoir which fills with 6 pints of oil at engine pressure. Should you lose pressure from oil surge under braking or hard cornering then the oil from the Accusump is forced into the engine to maintain the pressure. Also when you switch off a valve closes keeping the oil in the Accusump. When you next start the engine you instantly have oil pressure before the engine turns. This device may save an expensive engine.
Some of the stages listed could be sourced locally.
2. You could buy your own ali. Sheet as I did for both this stage and the double skin kit.
6. You could find hubs from the German model equivalent to the UK Ford Granada. Then buy new bearings locally.
7. You could do the brake lines in rigid pipe.
12. You could source these yourself but be aware that much testing has gone into the factory choice resulting in shocks with valve size/settings specific for the Ultima.
13. These may look like standard Ford shafts but are in fact up rated and a most definite requirement if you are looking at the higher power levels.
14. You’r a bold man if you want to go and do your own wiring. It can be done but the factory loom is actually quite cheap and is a good starting point if you want to add further circuits.
15. Pay the extra and get the body de-flashed and buffed. This is a hell of a lot of work and only viable if you are good at body repair type work.
The RAC roll cage is worth doing if only to stop you trying to slip under the back of a truck.
I made my own luggage containers but it was not easy without proper sheet bending machines etc.
You will leave yourself a lot of work trying to find alternative wheels and tyres. Take a look at the photos again, the wheels are a millimetre fit in the arches and the whole appearance of the car depends on this. It can be done.
Steve
Robert
There have been threads on here before about oil surge under braking in street use. Oil surge during cornering is more likely to be track related.
If you have the Accusump fitted then you will never see an oil pressure drop from surge because the Accusump is dealing with it
The only people who can comment on whether it is needed is those who don’t have one.
Also remember that most engine damage is done during start-up because the engine has started before you have any oil pressure
The Accusump is fully loaded when you switch off and provides oil pressure as soon as you turn the key to re-start
If you decide to do it I expect you will have it fitted by the factory (as it’s already there) but I do have one to sell if you're interested.
Steve
There have been threads on here before about oil surge under braking in street use. Oil surge during cornering is more likely to be track related.
If you have the Accusump fitted then you will never see an oil pressure drop from surge because the Accusump is dealing with it
The only people who can comment on whether it is needed is those who don’t have one.
Also remember that most engine damage is done during start-up because the engine has started before you have any oil pressure
The Accusump is fully loaded when you switch off and provides oil pressure as soon as you turn the key to re-start If you decide to do it I expect you will have it fitted by the factory (as it’s already there) but I do have one to sell if you're interested.
Steve
Hey that is overwelming!
I did not expect to get that much feedback overnight.
@GDR:
Thanks for the info about delivery.
But what I considder more of an issue is VAT and customs. I hope to get back the UK-VAT, but I have to pay German-VAT and probably customs, but this can be quite some money.
About the TÜV, this is my biggest concern! (except from building the car itself) I was told in the UK there are several (at least 2) ways to get a kit-car registered. One is a UK only registration, with this it is not possible to get the car registered in Germany. The other one is EU compliant. If the second registration is possible for a GTR in UK, then I see a chance in Germany too (That is what you described in your reply. I would have brought the car to Ultima to check every bolt and nut anyway.)
Is the registration that your GTRs have EU compliant?
@Steve_D
Thanks for the detaild descrption.
After your precise info about the accusump I think it is another must have item for me.
About the stages:
12, 13, 14 are out of discussion for me.
2, 6, 7) These are not really big points on the list, and I am not sure that searching for the parts is really worth it. (Please correct me but I think the panels are precut, so it would be a lot of additional work to get them in the right shape. About the other parts I am not sure I can get them new cheaper here. So in the end how much could be saved, my guess would be 100-200Pounds?)
15) Sorry, I am not sure I did get you r point here. Are you talking about making the whole body , which is impossible for me or are you taking about getting it factory fitted?
Cage was already a must have item (I read about that in other posts).
About the wheels I thought I just buy the wheels and get the tyres here, hoping this is not a big problem.
So in the end it seems, I have to get all the options and stuff (I feared already so). ;-)
@Alfasteve
I must have switched the PC alread off by the time you send it, but it arrived! (see PM)
I did not expect to get that much feedback overnight.
@GDR:
Thanks for the info about delivery.
But what I considder more of an issue is VAT and customs. I hope to get back the UK-VAT, but I have to pay German-VAT and probably customs, but this can be quite some money.
About the TÜV, this is my biggest concern! (except from building the car itself) I was told in the UK there are several (at least 2) ways to get a kit-car registered. One is a UK only registration, with this it is not possible to get the car registered in Germany. The other one is EU compliant. If the second registration is possible for a GTR in UK, then I see a chance in Germany too (That is what you described in your reply. I would have brought the car to Ultima to check every bolt and nut anyway.)
Is the registration that your GTRs have EU compliant?
@Steve_D
Thanks for the detaild descrption.
After your precise info about the accusump I think it is another must have item for me.
About the stages:
12, 13, 14 are out of discussion for me.
2, 6, 7) These are not really big points on the list, and I am not sure that searching for the parts is really worth it. (Please correct me but I think the panels are precut, so it would be a lot of additional work to get them in the right shape. About the other parts I am not sure I can get them new cheaper here. So in the end how much could be saved, my guess would be 100-200Pounds?)
15) Sorry, I am not sure I did get you r point here. Are you talking about making the whole body , which is impossible for me or are you taking about getting it factory fitted?
Cage was already a must have item (I read about that in other posts).
About the wheels I thought I just buy the wheels and get the tyres here, hoping this is not a big problem.
So in the end it seems, I have to get all the options and stuff (I feared already so). ;-)
@Alfasteve
I must have switched the PC alread off by the time you send it, but it arrived! (see PM)
Robert
My point about the body (15) was referring to the option of having the factory remove the moulding flash and buff the body panels. This is well worth the money unless you have the skills and patience to do it yourself.
Having the body pre-fitted is another option that is more debatable. I did not have this done but have enjoyed the challenge of getting it right.
On the matter of the parts and sourcing them yourself.
I thought I would be able to find many things cheaper as at first glance the factory prices seemed high. It is not until you receive your parts delivery and start to look at what you get in each option you begin to realise that you can’t match it. Every option is complete and every part required will be in the bag(s) and labelled. If an option needs 6 rivets then they will be there.
Steve
My point about the body (15) was referring to the option of having the factory remove the moulding flash and buff the body panels. This is well worth the money unless you have the skills and patience to do it yourself.
Having the body pre-fitted is another option that is more debatable. I did not have this done but have enjoyed the challenge of getting it right.
On the matter of the parts and sourcing them yourself.
I thought I would be able to find many things cheaper as at first glance the factory prices seemed high. It is not until you receive your parts delivery and start to look at what you get in each option you begin to realise that you can’t match it. Every option is complete and every part required will be in the bag(s) and labelled. If an option needs 6 rivets then they will be there.
Steve
Steve,
I thought that this was already included, so this work is not on my list until now.
How much do I have to plan for this on top of the nearly 4k Pounds for the body itself?
I have read about the self sourcing and in the end it is not much (if at all) cheaper. That was the reason for deciding to buy all the stages from them.
Martin
I thought that this was already included, so this work is not on my list until now.
How much do I have to plan for this on top of the nearly 4k Pounds for the body itself?
I have read about the self sourcing and in the end it is not much (if at all) cheaper. That was the reason for deciding to buy all the stages from them.
Martin
Hi Martin,
I also live in Germany and are building a GTR.
Registration of a kit without TÜV certificates is in fact the greatest problem. Email me for details.
You don´t have to pay customs within EU and you pay the UK VAT.
Got my kit in December 2000 (ok, a long term build due to the modifications
I make :-) ).
I will look in my documents for the shipping costs I payed.
Sourcing parts locally as I did creates a lot of additional work but can be cheaper due to the unfavourable exchange rate of the UK pound.
Tires can bought locally without problems and you need them to fit
the bodywork exactly.
Michael
I also live in Germany and are building a GTR.
Registration of a kit without TÜV certificates is in fact the greatest problem. Email me for details.
You don´t have to pay customs within EU and you pay the UK VAT.
Got my kit in December 2000 (ok, a long term build due to the modifications
I make :-) ).
I will look in my documents for the shipping costs I payed.
Sourcing parts locally as I did creates a lot of additional work but can be cheaper due to the unfavourable exchange rate of the UK pound.
Tires can bought locally without problems and you need them to fit
the bodywork exactly.
Michael
Robert
I didn't fit the Accusump until after the car was on the road and under braking saw as low as 3psi on the STACK dash, even if this was only for an instant (dials wouldn't be quick enough to display it) doesn't change how low it went.
With the accsump fitted I have never seen below 20psi.
Andy
I didn't fit the Accusump until after the car was on the road and under braking saw as low as 3psi on the STACK dash, even if this was only for an instant (dials wouldn't be quick enough to display it) doesn't change how low it went.
With the accsump fitted I have never seen below 20psi.
Andy
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