Propshaft removal knackered UJ
Discussion
Well I finally identified my road-speed related vibration and as many of you suggested it was the front UJ of the propshaft that was well and truly FUBAR'd...
So how to get it off then ?
Jacked up the car and removed the exhaust.
then I could see the problem - the chassis cross-braces prevented the shaft from being simply removed as suggested in the "Bible"
marked the position of the flange and removed the four bolts easily enough (had to remove the grease nipple to allow access to one bolt,
there was no way the shaft could be slid around to simply drop out. At this point I actually considered trying to remove the UJ Spider in-situ... but decided against it.
Fortunately for me, the gearbox mounting cross-brace of the chassis had at some point in the cars history been cut and was now a bolted affair. I removed the bolts and earth strap and finally the rubber mount itself (part num 72 HT - 6068 AA made by Gimetall... note that might be 72 HF... ??)
The box dropped slightly but no where near enough.
So by using a pinch bar I was able to move the box a lot lower but also had to use an old screw type jack to move the box forward by about 5mm.
There was a dull thud and a sharp pain above my left eye which told me the shaft had dropped out at last ...
Commercial Propshaft Services in Newcastle replaced the UJ in half an hour on saturday morning and charged me a mere £38.15 incl. Excellent service highly recommended.
so I just need to repeat the performance in reverse tonight and that will be that job done.
heres a couple of pics to show how easy it all was...
the removed mount access:
http://ketvrin.myphotoalbum.com/view_photo.php?set...
http://ketvrin.myphotoalbum.com/view_photo.php?set...
does he look happy or what ?
sorry for the long post
K
So how to get it off then ?
Jacked up the car and removed the exhaust.
then I could see the problem - the chassis cross-braces prevented the shaft from being simply removed as suggested in the "Bible"
marked the position of the flange and removed the four bolts easily enough (had to remove the grease nipple to allow access to one bolt,
there was no way the shaft could be slid around to simply drop out. At this point I actually considered trying to remove the UJ Spider in-situ... but decided against it.
Fortunately for me, the gearbox mounting cross-brace of the chassis had at some point in the cars history been cut and was now a bolted affair. I removed the bolts and earth strap and finally the rubber mount itself (part num 72 HT - 6068 AA made by Gimetall... note that might be 72 HF... ??)
The box dropped slightly but no where near enough.
So by using a pinch bar I was able to move the box a lot lower but also had to use an old screw type jack to move the box forward by about 5mm.
There was a dull thud and a sharp pain above my left eye which told me the shaft had dropped out at last ...
Commercial Propshaft Services in Newcastle replaced the UJ in half an hour on saturday morning and charged me a mere £38.15 incl. Excellent service highly recommended.
so I just need to repeat the performance in reverse tonight and that will be that job done.
heres a couple of pics to show how easy it all was...
the removed mount access:
http://ketvrin.myphotoalbum.com/view_photo.php?set...
http://ketvrin.myphotoalbum.com/view_photo.php?set...
does he look happy or what ?
sorry for the long post
K

When I had to do that job I found the same issue - prop shaft is apparantly impossible to wiggle out of the chassis. I ended up phoning the S Series technical help guy through the TVR Car Club, and he was great. I think he was in the middle of a kids' party but took the trouble to help me out, and was able to remember that it is necessary to un-bolt the top of the diff from its support bracket. The front of the diff then dips down and lets you take the prop shaft out.
Easy when you know how!
Easy when you know how!
hurststeve said:
When I had to do that job I found the same issue - prop shaft is apparantly impossible to wiggle out of the chassis. it is necessary to un-bolt the top of the diff from its support bracket. The front of the diff then dips down and lets you take the prop shaft out.
Easy when you know how!
Hi Steve - I've thought about this suggestion and I'm perplexed as I cant see how this would cure the problem of the lack of space (and I'm not about to try it out to test it either Easy when you know how!
)... so the diff would drop down sufficient for the propshaft to go over the top of it would it ? that would need to be a fair old way and thats what I cant understand. Maybe someone could test this theory at some point and come back with a definite 
Thanks anyway
K

Edited by ketvrin on Wednesday 21st May 08:53
Gassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff



