standard suspension
standard suspension
Author
Discussion

sean_goodman

Original Poster:

536 posts

232 months

Monday 9th June 2008
quotequote all
really not sure about my suspension, i just feel i seem to get thrown about off line when out playing on the B roads.

i know nitron are the way to go but after having my central heating boiler die on me at the weekend these will have to wait a while.

now.... i have had a look over the shocks and they are not leaking but the whole lot, shocks and springs have been covered with heavy black paint or underseal so finding and details off them is impossible.

one idea i had has to replace with standard, i know, or should i say think the shocks are bilstein and the springs are eibach. both are german and seeing as thats where i am i thought i might be order the parts over here from a dealer at a good price.

trouble is i have no idea on the parts numbers for the shocks and springs fitted as standard

can anybody help please?

cheers
sean

Biggriff

2,312 posts

313 months

Monday 9th June 2008
quotequote all
The standard units are rebuildable. If funds are tight that would give a worthwhile saving

RobP

2,097 posts

270 months

Monday 9th June 2008
quotequote all
Sean - if you're being thrown off-line by gnarly B roads using Bilsteins then Nitrons, Dynamics etc probably arn't going to help. They will improve cornering on the smooth black stuff, but will be more likely to chuck you into the bushes on the broken surfaces.
If your Bilsteins aren't leaking and your springs aren't broken I don't think replacing them with new ones is going to help. At the end of the day, you're in a stiff sports car, not a Roller!

sean_goodman

Original Poster:

536 posts

232 months

Monday 9th June 2008
quotequote all
i was thinking maybe they are degraded without actually leaking, or is it a case of not leaking = tip top?

might be tempted to remove clean up, inspect and re-assemble to see if anything is revealed.

also didnt think they would be covered in black stuff from new? or did the factory underseal or paint all the suspension to avoid corrosion?

cheers

Adrian W

15,494 posts

257 months

Monday 9th June 2008
quotequote all
If it's banging and crashing about, could the wishbone bushes be worn, or our old favourite the ball joints?

Biggriff

2,312 posts

313 months

Monday 9th June 2008
quotequote all
Thats gunk thrown off the wheels

sean_goodman

Original Poster:

536 posts

232 months

Monday 9th June 2008
quotequote all
Adrian W said:
If it's banging and crashing about, could the wishbone bushes be worn, or our old favourite the ball joints?
doesnt bang and crash, just seems a bit skittish. to me anyway, bear in mind i have come from 4 evos and a r34 gtr all with 4x4. so mabe i am being a bit paranoid dunno

sean_goodman

Original Poster:

536 posts

232 months

Monday 9th June 2008
quotequote all
Biggriff said:
Thats gunk thrown off the wheels
dont remember drive through loats of wet underseal lol.

gonna go home tonight and get the pressure washer out and come back here with egg all over my face lol.

NobleGuy

7,133 posts

244 months

Monday 9th June 2008
quotequote all
I get the same on B-roads here in the UK. I've had some horrid tramlining in the small troughs you sometimes get in the surface. Get feeling the wheelbase is slightly narrower than the (I'm assuming) lorries causing the dips in the surface, so the wheels want to go into both but aren't far enough apart.

Biggriff

2,312 posts

313 months

Monday 9th June 2008
quotequote all
It will come off. The stones seem to crape off the undereal and redistribute it !!

D_G

1,939 posts

238 months

Monday 9th June 2008
quotequote all
Sound obviously but keep the tyre pressures at 18/27, when mine are any different the car feels wrong. Resetting the pressures and it's back to normal.

Dave
smile

sean_goodman

Original Poster:

536 posts

232 months

Monday 9th June 2008
quotequote all
D_G said:
Sound obviously but keep the tyre pressures at 18/27, when mine are any different the car feels wrong. Resetting the pressures and it's back to normal.

Dave
smile
yep done mate, have removed one suspension unit this afternoon, given it a wash down but its so rusty one cant see any numbers on it.
dont really wanna remove the spring as it means upsetting the adjuster collars.

might try asking bilstein, if they are cheap enough i would replace anyway

F.C.

3,901 posts

237 months

Monday 9th June 2008
quotequote all
sean_goodman said:
D_G said:
Sound obviously but keep the tyre pressures at 18/27, when mine are any different the car feels wrong. Resetting the pressures and it's back to normal.

Dave
smile
yep done mate, have removed one suspension unit this afternoon, given it a wash down but its so rusty one cant see any numbers on it.
dont really wanna remove the spring as it means upsetting the adjuster collars.

might try asking bilstein, if they are cheap enough i would replace anyway
If it's tramlining and feels "a bit lively" when pushed, then you may have a similar situation to what I had.
My rear tyres were wearing at the outside edges 3/4 width big time, so I had the geo done and then had the uprights machined for camber adjustment.
The end result was stunning, LOADS more grip and traction and the tyre wear problem went away.
F.C.

Edited by F.C. on Monday 9th June 22:07

DanH

12,287 posts

289 months

Monday 9th June 2008
quotequote all
I agree with F.C. check the geometry before doing anything else. Dampers don't always leak when knackered but a geo may sort you out so a good place to start.

sean_goodman

Original Poster:

536 posts

232 months

Tuesday 10th June 2008
quotequote all
removed all the shocks and checked them, they all seem ok with the same pressure to compress each.

i reckon the car wasnt sitting at the correct height all round though as they were all set differently.

yes my rears are showing edge wear, reckon the car was sitting low thus throwing the camber a bit out.

am going to reset at factory height and see how it feels. all the bushes and joints felt good with no play.

car is all back together after struggling to loosen a couple of the locking rings on the shocks. gonna set the height tomorrow


DanH

12,287 posts

289 months

Tuesday 10th June 2008
quotequote all
sean_goodman said:
removed all the shocks and checked them, they all seem ok with the same pressure to compress each.

i reckon the car wasnt sitting at the correct height all round though as they were all set differently.

yes my rears are showing edge wear, reckon the car was sitting low thus throwing the camber a bit out.

am going to reset at factory height and see how it feels. all the bushes and joints felt good with no play.

car is all back together after struggling to loosen a couple of the locking rings on the shocks. gonna set the height tomorrow
Equalising spring platform height isn't a valid way of getting correct ride height all round. Really the car needs to be corner weighted and setup properly. This is difficult on the noble due to the lack of adjustment, but some of them left the factory woefully out. The setup + machining option discussed above really does seem the best option to me.

Still, you may be right about the rear so I guess its a startwink

sean_goodman

Original Poster:

536 posts

232 months

Wednesday 11th June 2008
quotequote all
being in germany make things tricky.

i thought i would get the suspension back on the car, put it on flat level ground (my garage) and set the suspension so the dimensions from the chassis rails in line with the wheels both front and rear to the ground match the factory spec.

cant remember off hand what these heights are as i am at work but i thought i would cur 4 blocks of wood at the relevant height and slowly lower the car until just touching.

machining the uprights just allows the car to be lowered whislt maintaining correct camber (or so i understand it). ie the machined upright compensates for the change in camber due to lowering.

search around, loads of info on US forum, the feel seems to be factory height and thus factory camber settings are pretty good for road use.

in my situation after having confirmed each shock is good, bushes are ok and ball joints are fine, its all i can think of doing


DanH

12,287 posts

289 months

Wednesday 11th June 2008
quotequote all
sean_goodman said:
being in germany make things tricky.

i thought i would get the suspension back on the car, put it on flat level ground (my garage) and set the suspension so the dimensions from the chassis rails in line with the wheels both front and rear to the ground match the factory spec.

cant remember off hand what these heights are as i am at work but i thought i would cur 4 blocks of wood at the relevant height and slowly lower the car until just touching.

machining the uprights just allows the car to be lowered whislt maintaining correct camber (or so i understand it). ie the machined upright compensates for the change in camber due to lowering.

search around, loads of info on US forum, the feel seems to be factory height and thus factory camber settings are pretty good for road use.

in my situation after having confirmed each shock is good, bushes are ok and ball joints are fine, its all i can think of doing
The machinng allows adjustment, and sometimes the cars aren't right without some frown

Still sounds like a plan to do the cornerweighting, so just a case of finding out where the ride height should be measured at each corner and adjusting spring platforms.


sean_goodman

Original Poster:

536 posts

232 months

Wednesday 11th June 2008
quotequote all
so.... had an interesting session this afternoon.

front was 2 cm too low and tyres showing wear on inside edge as you would expect.

rear was 1cm too high with tyres showing wear on outside edge.

all set to factory height now (140 rear 133 front) sadly the nice sunny 30 degrees here has turned into rainy 30 degrees with thunder so a test run is probably best posponed.

think i will treat it to new tyres soon and see how it goes


steve1

1,251 posts

273 months

Wednesday 11th June 2008
quotequote all
Can I ask where you got your settings from.
According to the build manual, the front should be 5"(128mm), and the rear should be 5 1/2"(140mm).
Both measured from chassis to ground at centre line of wheel.
I know 5mm is not going to make that much difference, but thought I would point it out anyway.

Steve.