S owner wanting a bit of advice
Discussion
OK. Here my problem
Upto about two weeks ago I could simply turn over the engine it would fire up tick over at 1400 rpm for about 5-10 secs before reducing to 1000 rpm and rock solid. Following that driving was a smooth as anything.
Now, I have to apply throttle and no 1400 rpm just 1000. If I drive the car and floor the throttle its like hitting the engine limitor especially after 3500 RPM. Fuel Consumption is terrible. When the engine is warm and at tickover it hunts all over the place between 900-1700 rpm as if the throttle was being applied.
I have replaced the auxilary air device, checked the cold injector and this works inconjunction with the thermotime switch. I have also tried a replacement warm up regulator. Symtoms still persist.
Any advice
Upto about two weeks ago I could simply turn over the engine it would fire up tick over at 1400 rpm for about 5-10 secs before reducing to 1000 rpm and rock solid. Following that driving was a smooth as anything.
Now, I have to apply throttle and no 1400 rpm just 1000. If I drive the car and floor the throttle its like hitting the engine limitor especially after 3500 RPM. Fuel Consumption is terrible. When the engine is warm and at tickover it hunts all over the place between 900-1700 rpm as if the throttle was being applied.
I have replaced the auxilary air device, checked the cold injector and this works inconjunction with the thermotime switch. I have also tried a replacement warm up regulator. Symtoms still persist.
Any advice
Hmm
Could be a couple of things, first check the obvious is the throttle opening properly , butterfly not loose on its spindle etc?
Check the centre plunger in the injection metering head they are known to stick, this would give the symptoms you describe. Also check the condition of the rotor arm / dizzy cap etc.
Matt
Could be a couple of things, first check the obvious is the throttle opening properly , butterfly not loose on its spindle etc?
Check the centre plunger in the injection metering head they are known to stick, this would give the symptoms you describe. Also check the condition of the rotor arm / dizzy cap etc.
Matt
Have a look at this
http://members.rennlist.com/jimwms/CIS/CIShome.html
The system is not exactly the same, but there is a pretty good diagnostic chart etc.
Danny
PS Jim is very helpful if you contact him directly for advise - mention my name.
http://members.rennlist.com/jimwms/CIS/CIShome.html
The system is not exactly the same, but there is a pretty good diagnostic chart etc.
Danny
PS Jim is very helpful if you contact him directly for advise - mention my name.
Birchy,
The chart that Danny sent you to is very good, it's very similar to the TVR one.
Many of the checks that need to be done require a pressure guage. CSI type, so think Merc, Volvo, Porsche, if you want pro help.
Couple of cheap things you could check are contacts on the fuel pump, and free movement of plate in dizzy and oil in dizzy center screw (noone ever does that, they wait 'til the weights are rusted up) Then spray some WD40 to see if you can find a vac leak.(change of engine rpm when spraying) It's possible that your sensor plate is sticking but I would think that would also make starting very difficult.
If you would like any pages from TVR manual e-mail me.
Jeff
The chart that Danny sent you to is very good, it's very similar to the TVR one.
Many of the checks that need to be done require a pressure guage. CSI type, so think Merc, Volvo, Porsche, if you want pro help.
Couple of cheap things you could check are contacts on the fuel pump, and free movement of plate in dizzy and oil in dizzy center screw (noone ever does that, they wait 'til the weights are rusted up) Then spray some WD40 to see if you can find a vac leak.(change of engine rpm when spraying) It's possible that your sensor plate is sticking but I would think that would also make starting very difficult.
If you would like any pages from TVR manual e-mail me.
Jeff
It could just be an air leak. Idle speed should be more like 700-800 than 1000 rpm. If it won't go lower, something's not right.
I ran every kind of test I could find on my Tasmin 2.8, but it still had odd running problems. I lashed up a fuel pressure gauge quite simply and it told me that everything was correct.
Whatever you do, don't strip the fuel distributor, as you'll never stop it leaking when you rebuild it. I know...
Assuming your car is the same as mine, there'll be a pipe leading to the main air inlet trunking from the oil filler cap. There's a valve plumbed into the O/S rocker cover. Both the oil filler and that valve have rubber seals (or O-rings) and when they perish, they leak like hell. This allows the engine to draw in air that hasn't been metered, so it weakens the mixture and causes all sorts of odd responses. Any other point that can leak air, will do: it's the First Law of Bosch.
Ian
I ran every kind of test I could find on my Tasmin 2.8, but it still had odd running problems. I lashed up a fuel pressure gauge quite simply and it told me that everything was correct.
Whatever you do, don't strip the fuel distributor, as you'll never stop it leaking when you rebuild it. I know...
Assuming your car is the same as mine, there'll be a pipe leading to the main air inlet trunking from the oil filler cap. There's a valve plumbed into the O/S rocker cover. Both the oil filler and that valve have rubber seals (or O-rings) and when they perish, they leak like hell. This allows the engine to draw in air that hasn't been metered, so it weakens the mixture and causes all sorts of odd responses. Any other point that can leak air, will do: it's the First Law of Bosch.
Ian
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