Been putting off this job for some time.
Discussion
Next week Im thinking of removing my heater fan switch from my S3 , its stopped working. I understand that they come apart and I might have a chance of getting it working by cleaning the contacts. The weather will be changing soon so it would be nice to have a little heat on feet. I understand the switch is no longer available and its origins are BL. I had a look at few TR7 and Knebworth recently, they use that type of switch but not on the fan, maybe its from a Marina or something.
How tricky is it going to be to remove this switch ? It looks as if the trans cover will need to be removed.
Anyone had a crack at this job ?
How tricky is it going to be to remove this switch ? It looks as if the trans cover will need to be removed.
Anyone had a crack at this job ?
Been there 
check this post out for part No of said switch www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?f=11&h=&t=27277
Getting the centre tunnel off a S3(or V8S) is not too bad; remove radio first undo two screws at rear of tunnel lit up carefully 
. The main caution I would give is that when you are lifting up the tunnel check there is enough play in the wires that go to the switches some of mine were tight. When lifting up the tunnel as well sort of pull it to the rear of the car a bit as you lift it, it seems to come up easier.
The vent pipes are push fits and not too difficult to disconnect nor reconnect IMHO and their removel helps access to the securing bolts for the veneer bit.
You should now have enough room to access under the switches, but first though you have to remove the veneer which is held in place by 4 nuts/studs, a 8mm box spanner was perfect on mine. There is also a metal panel under the veneer which comes off at the same time, this clamps the switches in place.
All IMHO and followed at your own peril
.
Harry
check this post out for part No of said switch www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?f=11&h=&t=27277 Getting the centre tunnel off a S3(or V8S
) is not too bad; remove radio first undo two screws at rear of tunnel lit up carefully . The main caution I would give is that when you are lifting up the tunnel check there is enough play in the wires that go to the switches some of mine were tight. When lifting up the tunnel as well sort of pull it to the rear of the car a bit as you lift it, it seems to come up easier. The vent pipes are push fits and not too difficult to disconnect nor reconnect IMHO and their removel helps access to the securing bolts for the veneer bit.
You should now have enough room to access under the switches, but first though you have to remove the veneer which is held in place by 4 nuts/studs, a 8mm box spanner was perfect on mine. There is also a metal panel under the veneer which comes off at the same time, this clamps the switches in place.
All IMHO and followed at your own peril
. Harry
Ok, Have tackled the job today. First I took out the radio (doesnt work any way so I binned it) Removed the gear nob and removed the screws at the rear of the tunnel.
Then the whole unit then lifts up. Getting the the panel off around the switchs wasnt too bad, they were loose enough to be undone with my fingers once I put enough pressure on the front of the panel.
I then was able to remove the panel and acces the switches. Once I removed the switch I was able to strip down the switch for inspection, a good tip is to mark/ score the parts so you know there orentation when it comes to reassembley.
The problem with the switch was the high speed position wasnt making as the spring loaded contacted had melted. I swapped this contact with from the slow speed side and then removed the burred melted plastic from melted contacted. I figure only the high speed would work as the other contact was burnt. Once I put the switch back and tested it , Eureka ! both speeds worked. I also cleaned the gear stick gaiter but nothing could shift the grubbyness. Its not that bad of a job.
Then the whole unit then lifts up. Getting the the panel off around the switchs wasnt too bad, they were loose enough to be undone with my fingers once I put enough pressure on the front of the panel.
I then was able to remove the panel and acces the switches. Once I removed the switch I was able to strip down the switch for inspection, a good tip is to mark/ score the parts so you know there orentation when it comes to reassembley.
The problem with the switch was the high speed position wasnt making as the spring loaded contacted had melted. I swapped this contact with from the slow speed side and then removed the burred melted plastic from melted contacted. I figure only the high speed would work as the other contact was burnt. Once I put the switch back and tested it , Eureka ! both speeds worked. I also cleaned the gear stick gaiter but nothing could shift the grubbyness. Its not that bad of a job.
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