Vibrating Scooby
Discussion
Just driven a mates Impreza around the car park at work to experience the vibrating he has been describing to me this morning and need some guidance on what it might be.
Its a 2000 X plate 2.0 Sport (non turbo) with about 70k on the clock. The car has been into a Subaru specialist who have given up with it - it has had a new gearbox, clutch and flywheel and the problem still hasn't been cured.
The problem:
Whenever you let the clutch out, no matter how gently or roughly you do it, the whole car vibrates. It's particulalry bad if you change down and let the clutch slow the car for you (I know you shouldn't, but it is an easy way to experience the problem).
Any suggestions as to what else it might be?
Cheers
James
Its a 2000 X plate 2.0 Sport (non turbo) with about 70k on the clock. The car has been into a Subaru specialist who have given up with it - it has had a new gearbox, clutch and flywheel and the problem still hasn't been cured.
The problem:
Whenever you let the clutch out, no matter how gently or roughly you do it, the whole car vibrates. It's particulalry bad if you change down and let the clutch slow the car for you (I know you shouldn't, but it is an easy way to experience the problem).
Any suggestions as to what else it might be?
Cheers
James
I understand that this is a pretty common thing with Subarus even with new clutches. Later models have dual mass flywheels that attempt to dampen the shocks. Had a Legacy wagon myself for a little while and it would do it but I replaced the clutch (and ground flywheel) and it was improved.
The vibration the OP is referring to is not a common problem with Scooby's. A bit of clutch judder is a common problem though when pulling away from stationary and that's due to the hot spots created on the flywheel and OEM clutch plate face from the heat build up when doing things like slipping the clutch to pull away etc.... All due to the 4x4 system stressing said components.
A way to clear the clutch judder is to do a couple of full bore standing starts, and that will clear it away for a while at least. Best cure for that though is to replace the OEM clutch kit with an uprated after market type like AP Racing or Exedy.
The vibration the OP is experiencing could not be caused by the propshaft as mormally if a center bearing or CV joint goes they tend to knock the whole time.
If the car's had a new gearbox, flywheel and clutch kit it must be either the clutch release bearing or the the rear diff. The front diff is inside the gearbox and if the box was repalced with a brand new one the front diff wouldn't be causing a problem.
Likewise the new clutch kit would have had a new release bearing included, however, if the clutch itself is iffy normally they would tend to either slip, not engage, become stuck open or more commonly a bit of judder.
I would say either the rear diff is knackered (less likely as they are generally thought of as bullet proof as are the front diffs) or the clutch release bearing is knackered (more likely) hence the vibration when changing gears up or down, or possibly the clutch is knackered.
Is he sure they replaced the gearbox/flywheel/clutch kit?
A way to clear the clutch judder is to do a couple of full bore standing starts, and that will clear it away for a while at least. Best cure for that though is to replace the OEM clutch kit with an uprated after market type like AP Racing or Exedy.
The vibration the OP is experiencing could not be caused by the propshaft as mormally if a center bearing or CV joint goes they tend to knock the whole time.
If the car's had a new gearbox, flywheel and clutch kit it must be either the clutch release bearing or the the rear diff. The front diff is inside the gearbox and if the box was repalced with a brand new one the front diff wouldn't be causing a problem.
Likewise the new clutch kit would have had a new release bearing included, however, if the clutch itself is iffy normally they would tend to either slip, not engage, become stuck open or more commonly a bit of judder.
I would say either the rear diff is knackered (less likely as they are generally thought of as bullet proof as are the front diffs) or the clutch release bearing is knackered (more likely) hence the vibration when changing gears up or down, or possibly the clutch is knackered.
Is he sure they replaced the gearbox/flywheel/clutch kit?
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