Hammerite on the chassis
Discussion
I am about to coat the rusty parts of the chassis with Hammerite, and had the following advice from the manufacturers:-
"Hammerite Metal Finish can be applied directly to rusted metal. However, for better, long-term protection we would advise that Hammerite No 1 Rustbeater (which is a rust inhibiting primer) is applied first, following guidelines below:-
Abrade surface to remove any loose flaking rust
Wash surface with hot soapy water
Rinse with fresh water and allow to dry
Apply No 1 Rustbeater and leave for 24 hours
Apply 2 coats of Hammerite Metal Finish, following instructions on the tin."
If you do not want to wash down the chassis, for obvious reasons, they then suggest wiping down with hammerite thinners.
Guess what I am doing this weekend ..
"Hammerite Metal Finish can be applied directly to rusted metal. However, for better, long-term protection we would advise that Hammerite No 1 Rustbeater (which is a rust inhibiting primer) is applied first, following guidelines below:-
Abrade surface to remove any loose flaking rust
Wash surface with hot soapy water
Rinse with fresh water and allow to dry
Apply No 1 Rustbeater and leave for 24 hours
Apply 2 coats of Hammerite Metal Finish, following instructions on the tin."
If you do not want to wash down the chassis, for obvious reasons, they then suggest wiping down with hammerite thinners.
Guess what I am doing this weekend ..
MartS1 said:
Is it a good idea to waxoyl over the hammerite then?
Did not think of doing that
Mart
IIRC Wayol is made by Hammerite. The Ultimate protection I ever did was on my mini rear subframe as forllows:
1/2 litre of Zinc anti rust primer, followed by Hammerite 3 coats, followed by Body Shoot (A thick anti chip pait, can definitly reccoemnd it) then Waxoyl. Took a day to do and the car has never been out in the wet since!
Ironic how things turn out.
My chassis has not been painted for ages, and lots of the white coating is coming off, so this will be a big job. I checked with hammerite to see if No1 rust beater was worth using, and it is.... So that is 3 coats plus the wax oil to be done.
Luckily the local Wilkinsons hardware store had both the No.1 primer and the hammerite at a very reasonable price.
Luckily the local Wilkinsons hardware store had both the No.1 primer and the hammerite at a very reasonable price.
Halfords sell mini spray guns , it costs about £40 with all the cannisters of compressed air but it saves hours!
The spray gun is £20 and the cans of compressed air £5 a go!
You get a pretty accurate spray of paint so easy to control!
The anti rust just sprays on out the bottle but you have to thin down the hammerite with thinners ( one thinners to two paint) but the finish is good!
I found it very handy for getting to the hard to reach areas, the down side is you will have to give it a few coats but with the time it saves its well worth it
Mart
The spray gun is £20 and the cans of compressed air £5 a go!
You get a pretty accurate spray of paint so easy to control!
The anti rust just sprays on out the bottle but you have to thin down the hammerite with thinners ( one thinners to two paint) but the finish is good!
I found it very handy for getting to the hard to reach areas, the down side is you will have to give it a few coats but with the time it saves its well worth it
Mart
Don't forget that hammerite is a bastard if you don't coat it properly. You must do all the coats within a reasonable time, as if you leave it overnight for exanple you can't recoat for SIX WEEKS ! YES SIX WEEKS.
Now, I tried to paint over after a couple of days, a bit that was not quite right, and it bubbles and flairs up so do bits at a time and get them right with the coats within a couple of hours, or you are knackered for six weeks.
It is vital that you wax over the paint. I did one bit and missed a bit with the wax and it goes spotty with rust within no time at all!
Hammerite tends to leave pin holes I have found, and this is why you must wax it when its gone off.
Its a long job to do the chassis as you can imagine.
Good luck.
gadgit.
Now, I tried to paint over after a couple of days, a bit that was not quite right, and it bubbles and flairs up so do bits at a time and get them right with the coats within a couple of hours, or you are knackered for six weeks.
It is vital that you wax over the paint. I did one bit and missed a bit with the wax and it goes spotty with rust within no time at all!
Hammerite tends to leave pin holes I have found, and this is why you must wax it when its gone off.
Its a long job to do the chassis as you can imagine.
Good luck.
gadgit.
try por15 less preperation time goes on easy and sticks well just starting doing mine with this
basically clear rusts/grease etc
use an etching spray and paint
you can prime and top coat if you want but don't have to as it is out of sunlight
www.por15.com availabel from www.frosts.co.uk
Warning though you need to have a good respirator or plenty of fresh air as it is dangerous stuff
some pics here of work i did
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/a.bolards/tvr/Renovation/renovation.html
basically clear rusts/grease etc
use an etching spray and paint
you can prime and top coat if you want but don't have to as it is out of sunlight
www.por15.com availabel from www.frosts.co.uk
Warning though you need to have a good respirator or plenty of fresh air as it is dangerous stuff
some pics here of work i did
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/a.bolards/tvr/Renovation/renovation.html
spivvy said:......gets my vote as the best stuff....comes in colours too!
try por15 less preperation time goes on easy and sticks
www.por15.com availabel from www.frosts.co.uk
gadgit said:
It is vital that you wax over the paint. I did one bit and missed a bit with the wax and it goes spotty with rust within no time at all!
gadgit.
Tend to agree with this, also i have found that Hammerite tents to chip rather easily.
Por 15 seems good stuff, also Epoxy Mastic from www.rust.co.uk which I used. I made sure by using a rust converter first and then used the black epoxy mastic, finally a red top coat to try and match the original chassis.
Always a good idea to back everything up with wax oil.
spivvy said:Spivvy,
plenty of fresh air as it is dangerous stuff
some pics here of work i did
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/a.bolards/tvr/Renovation/renovation.html
The link didn't work, but this one seems ok:
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/a.bolards/tvr/html/renovation.html
Gassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff