hole in rad

[amyzoe]

Ive found a hole in my rad but the good news is it is still under warranty.Does anybody know if these are available or will it have to be re-corred and is there anything else on the cooling system that should be changed at the same time
please help before i take it in!!!!!!!

[RichardR]

IIRC, the rad is from an LDV Sherpa. I'm pretty sure the previous owner of mine replaced the radiator from that source.

[z_chromozone]

I think the base rad is from this vehicle, but I have a sneaky feeling TVR added extra cores for more cooling.

Z

I may be wrong though

Just checked, seems to be a Leyland / DAF rad with extra core. Have a look in the parts guide in the TVR S section.

>> Edited by z_chromozone on Thursday 11th September 15:50

[amyzoe]

Thanks ive now sorted the rad but is there any other items that should be replaced at the same time (eg thermostat?) in your opinions

[gadgit]

If you can convince the warranty peolpe, go for a recore. A modern multicore rad will be far better than the original one and far cheaper. should not be more than £120 for a recore, and may well be less. A new one is well over £200 and not as good.

Up to you.

gadgit.

[amyzoe]

thats whats happening gadget,Ionly have 3 months warranty so thats why i asked if there were any other bits on the cooling system that could be changed at the same time because the warranty is a car plan type with a limit of £500.00 and not anything to do with the dealer that sold it to me,so i presume they will be quite flexable

[gadgit]

You will find they will try not to do anything if they can, but a good Rad is half the battle with an S.
I would advise you change the stat and check all the pipework and buy a new cap for the swirlpot. 15LBs.

Oh no, please don't start that again!

gadgit.

[amyzoe]

cheers gadgit
worms and can comes to mind!!!!!!

[Psychobert]

Might well be worth looking at a modwise 2 stage cooling kit. I've not got one myself, but the car does like to get worryingly hot so will be investigating one shortly..

[mycroft]

I am just starting my third year with my S3 ,the best thing I have done yet was to fit a low temp otter switch. cost under £30 & stoped overheating & dumping coolant.Hop[e u get sorrted.

[yellabelly]

mycroft said:

I am just starting my third year with my S3 ,the best thing I have done yet was to fit a low temp otter switch. cost under £30 & stoped overheating & dumping coolant.Hop[e u get sorrted.

mycroft,
Welcome to the PH mob your experience of the car will be most welcome.Where did you get the otter switch from, what are the switching temperatures and what is the part number?

[mycroft]

Thanks for the welcome.
Tower View Race Services 0208456922[£23.50]
no part No. but just ask they will know what u whant.
74degC.
2 questions from a newboy.
Is the bible I see ref to Steve Heaths S series book?
I read someone in another topic say i know you can`t reply in this forum. I thought that was the idea?
or have I got it wrong.

[yellabelly]

mycroft said:

Thanks for the welcome. Tower View Race Services 0208456922[£23.50] no part No. but just ask they will know what u whant. 74degC. 2 questions from a newboy. Is the bible I see ref to Steve Heaths S series book? I read someone in another topic say i know you can`t reply in this forum. I thought that was the idea? or have I got it wrong.

Dale,
Try this thread link
www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=58732&f=11&h=0

Yes it is Steves book, 2nd revision and Steve will often reply to resolve queries on-line.

>> Edited by yellabelly on Tuesday 23 September 00:37

[joospeed]

I recently replaced the rad in my S after reaching the red at the end of the bruntingthorpe straight (oil temp was 120 deg!!) .. had it recored with an extra core (my rad was three core as std) and the temp instantly dropped by up to 15 degC. result! .. whereas before it teetered on the edge of the red bit, it's now down around 80-85 whatever thrashing i give it.