Soft top

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Discussion

jeff m

Original Poster:

4,060 posts

259 months

Thursday 11th September 2003
quotequote all
Just got a couple of quotes for a new soft top, recovering of the hard bit and a "boot" that covers the soft top when down. (makes it look neat)
$1,600 and $1,000. I was expecting something like $550
a 2+2 is $700 here.
Anyone had one done in the US recently?

Also, my hard top seems to have a different curve to the frame of the soft top. The hard top is slightly higher in the middle, also slightly higher at the windscreen but not so noticeable. Anyone else have this problem. Solutions?

Jeff

sevans

1,161 posts

268 months

Thursday 11th September 2003
quotequote all
said:
Also, my hard top seems to have a different curve to the frame of the soft top. The hard top is slightly higher in the middle, also slightly higher at the windscreen but not so noticeable. Anyone else have this problem. Solutions?


Funny you should ask. Had exactly the same problem and just finished sorting it out. I stripped the material off both on the top and underneath. Cut each of the two box sections in several places. This will take the rigidity out of the roof. Put it in position and put some weight on the top to get the lines both front and back correct. Then fibreglass the cuts back up. As the cuts will be trying to close back up make sure you fill them all and leave to set before you try and move it. If yours is anything like mine was there will still be a gap in the middle of the inside edges, even though it looks OK from outside. I built this up with fibreglass and matting until it looked even. The two outside back corners still looked low after this, so I also built these up with fibreglass. I also shaved some off the drivers side edge to allow the window to shut without hitting the top at the back edge.
I did try and source a replacement but soon realised that it was not going to be easy, even if you do find one I bet it's not going to be any better. A good time to sort it out if you are going to get it recovered anyway.

>> Edited by sevans on Thursday 11th September 14:20

>> Edited by sevans on Thursday 11th September 14:22

jeff m

Original Poster:

4,060 posts

259 months

Thursday 11th September 2003
quotequote all
Steve,
I thought this post was a "long shot" looks like I got lucky.
Did you cut lines on the top and on the underside of the roof section?
How deep did you go?
Jeff

sevans

1,161 posts

268 months

Thursday 11th September 2003
quotequote all
When, you get the material stripped off you will see two box sections, one at the front edge and one at the back edge. I cut these with a hacksaw in several places, most of them in the middle where the roof is most bowed. Cut them until level with section between them. I am not sure this is making sense but it will become obvious once you get the roof down to it's bare fibreglass. Tip.....cover the inside of the car before you try to fibreglass up the saw lines as it can drip down......not speaking from experience honest guv.
If you need more info/ pics let me know. Mine has not been recovered yet so could get some pics before I do.

PS just cut on the underside of the roof section

>> Edited by sevans on Thursday 11th September 16:06

grady

1,221 posts

261 months

Thursday 11th September 2003
quotequote all
That on my to-do list so I've been asking questions.

I asked the seller of one listed on eBay with a new top and was told he had the top made/installed 'locally' for $300.

Another seller told me that he ordered a top (with replacement gaskets) from the factory for just under $500 with installation here being extra.

Grady

>> Edited by grady on Thursday 11th September 17:23