Protecting wooden worksurfaces
Discussion
Have a new kitchen worktop made out of some rather fine Walnut and it needs protecting / sealing but without changing the colour too much.
We've tried (on an offcut) Beeswax, which looks good but the instructions say isn't suitable for wet areas (ie. the drainer). And now I've tried (on a different offcut!) boiled linseed oil, but (24 hours later) it's quite a few shades darker.
Other considerations are varnish, but this doesn't really penetrate and protect in the same way.
Anyone with experience of wood who can suggest a linseed oil protection with a beeswax finish?
Thanks
Ben
Untreated:

We've tried (on an offcut) Beeswax, which looks good but the instructions say isn't suitable for wet areas (ie. the drainer). And now I've tried (on a different offcut!) boiled linseed oil, but (24 hours later) it's quite a few shades darker.
Other considerations are varnish, but this doesn't really penetrate and protect in the same way.
Anyone with experience of wood who can suggest a linseed oil protection with a beeswax finish?
Thanks
Ben
Untreated:

I used Junkers oil on my beech worktop, honestly can't remember if it made it darker (if it did, not by much)
http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/j/JUNWT...
Seems to be recommended on a few carpentery forums, Google Junkers oil.
http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/j/JUNWT...
Seems to be recommended on a few carpentery forums, Google Junkers oil.
Edited by neelyp on Thursday 14th August 07:59
evenflow said:
Maybe try Danish oil?
It will darken the wood a little (not as much as linseed). Also it is based on tung nut oil, which can cause allergic reactions in some people. It it is a good choice though.The ultimate hard-wearing finish for worktops (though not as natural or tactile as an oil finish) is something like Rustins Plastic Coating, which is extremely durable.
Just literally put in a new kitchen and opted for oak.
DO NOT VARNISH IT.
If you can find a local Howdens, get hold of their worktop oil, comes in big tins, one tin will provide enough treatment (five coats) for about 5 sq.m.
You need a good quality penetrating oil, Danish is fine but hard to work with.
First coat, really put it on heavy, liberally apply it and using something substantial (like an old tea towel) start rubbing it in. Continue for about 10 minutes (depending on temperature). Using another tea towel, wipe off the excess.
Leave it to dry for 4-6 hours and provide plenty of venilation.
Once dry, a second coat, not so liberal, same process same drying time.
Check grain. Sand (nothing lower than 180 grade) any grain that's risen.
Apply third and fourth coats
Check grain, sand again if it's risen.
Apply fifth coat.
Use new cloths for each coat.
You must also do the underside, not with a heavy coat but sufficient to seal it from moisture, two light coats should be fine.
After that, it should be re-coated every 6-12 months depending on use.
Also, it's best to wipe off spills as soon as they happen. Particularly around the sink (by the way nice tap and sink, we have the same
)
DO NOT VARNISH IT.
If you can find a local Howdens, get hold of their worktop oil, comes in big tins, one tin will provide enough treatment (five coats) for about 5 sq.m.
You need a good quality penetrating oil, Danish is fine but hard to work with.
First coat, really put it on heavy, liberally apply it and using something substantial (like an old tea towel) start rubbing it in. Continue for about 10 minutes (depending on temperature). Using another tea towel, wipe off the excess.
Leave it to dry for 4-6 hours and provide plenty of venilation.
Once dry, a second coat, not so liberal, same process same drying time.
Check grain. Sand (nothing lower than 180 grade) any grain that's risen.
Apply third and fourth coats
Check grain, sand again if it's risen.
Apply fifth coat.
Use new cloths for each coat.
You must also do the underside, not with a heavy coat but sufficient to seal it from moisture, two light coats should be fine.
After that, it should be re-coated every 6-12 months depending on use.
Also, it's best to wipe off spills as soon as they happen. Particularly around the sink (by the way nice tap and sink, we have the same
)Edited by 215cu on Thursday 14th August 12:53
scotal said:
Sadolin do "worktop oil" available form B&Q.
Easy to apply, colourless.odourless does exactly what it says on the tin.
Ah yes, http://www.sadolin.co.uk/homeowner/products/interi...Easy to apply, colourless.odourless does exactly what it says on the tin.
Looks like what I'm looking for.
Thanks!
Unfortunately my local B&Q is out at the mo.
I hope you are considering food contact with whatever you use 
I assume your wife will roll out pastry on it. If you are lucky enough to have got one that cooks
Also, at some point somebody is going to put something hot on it.
Butchers traditionally use beef fat/suet on the beech chopping blocks. I expect there is some Euro legislation that prevents that now.

I assume your wife will roll out pastry on it. If you are lucky enough to have got one that cooks

Also, at some point somebody is going to put something hot on it.
Butchers traditionally use beef fat/suet on the beech chopping blocks. I expect there is some Euro legislation that prevents that now.
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