Discussion
I have removed the centres, and both the rims and the centres are away being painted/polished..
They arrived back tomorrow and I will be fitting them back together tomorrow evening.
Now, do I seal the rims ? I have spoken to a few re-ferb places and am being told different things !
Some say just put metal on metal 15/lb torque on the bolts and away you go..
Others are saying, seal the rims with thin line of sealant lock-tight on the bolts, 15/lb torque the bolts !
Which is right ?
Does 15/lb sound right ?
They arrived back tomorrow and I will be fitting them back together tomorrow evening.
Now, do I seal the rims ? I have spoken to a few re-ferb places and am being told different things !
Some say just put metal on metal 15/lb torque on the bolts and away you go..
Others are saying, seal the rims with thin line of sealant lock-tight on the bolts, 15/lb torque the bolts !
Which is right ?
Does 15/lb sound right ?
Dan7357 said:
I have removed the centres, and both the rims and the centres are away being painted/polished..
They arrived back tomorrow and I will be fitting them back together tomorrow evening.
Now, do I seal the rims ? I have spoken to a few re-ferb places and am being told different things !
Some say just put metal on metal 15/lb torque on the bolts and away you go..
Others are saying, seal the rims with thin line of sealant lock-tight on the bolts, 15/lb torque the bolts !
Which is right ?
Does 15/lb sound right ?
It will depend on the split rim as to whether they are designed to work with a special sealant or not. But certainly loctite on the bolts is a good idea. Importantly, make sure you use new bolts as the bolts for splitrims are normally stretch bolts. Torque wise, it sounds about right although probably best to check with the specific wheel manufacturer.They arrived back tomorrow and I will be fitting them back together tomorrow evening.
Now, do I seal the rims ? I have spoken to a few re-ferb places and am being told different things !
Some say just put metal on metal 15/lb torque on the bolts and away you go..
Others are saying, seal the rims with thin line of sealant lock-tight on the bolts, 15/lb torque the bolts !
Which is right ?
Does 15/lb sound right ?
I've not taken a GT3 wheel apart but I have taken a Ferrari 360 Spider split rim apart and as they're made by BBS too, I suspect the process will be the same.
They are two piece rims so the part of the wheel that holds the tyre is a single unit and air tight. Accordingly you do not need to seal the inner "spider" to the outer rim. Just make sure the rim is COMPLETELY clean and that you use locktight on the bolt threads. 15lbft is about right, tighten them cross-wise and a little each till you get to spec. Check the runout after with a dial test indicator though.
The only wheels you need to seal are three piece ones as the bit the tyre sits on is two pice with the spider forming the third part.
I'm not expert though, so hopefully one will chip in.
They are two piece rims so the part of the wheel that holds the tyre is a single unit and air tight. Accordingly you do not need to seal the inner "spider" to the outer rim. Just make sure the rim is COMPLETELY clean and that you use locktight on the bolt threads. 15lbft is about right, tighten them cross-wise and a little each till you get to spec. Check the runout after with a dial test indicator though.
The only wheels you need to seal are three piece ones as the bit the tyre sits on is two pice with the spider forming the third part.
I'm not expert though, so hopefully one will chip in.
PolarExpress said:
Dan7357 said:
I have removed the centres, and both the rims and the centres are away being painted/polished..
They arrived back tomorrow and I will be fitting them back together tomorrow evening.
Now, do I seal the rims ? I have spoken to a few re-ferb places and am being told different things !
Some say just put metal on metal 15/lb torque on the bolts and away you go..
Others are saying, seal the rims with thin line of sealant lock-tight on the bolts, 15/lb torque the bolts !
Which is right ?
Does 15/lb sound right ?
It will depend on the split rim as to whether they are designed to work with a special sealant or not. But certainly loctite on the bolts is a good idea. Importantly, make sure you use new bolts as the bolts for splitrims are normally stretch bolts. Torque wise, it sounds about right although probably best to check with the specific wheel manufacturer.They arrived back tomorrow and I will be fitting them back together tomorrow evening.
Now, do I seal the rims ? I have spoken to a few re-ferb places and am being told different things !
Some say just put metal on metal 15/lb torque on the bolts and away you go..
Others are saying, seal the rims with thin line of sealant lock-tight on the bolts, 15/lb torque the bolts !
Which is right ?
Does 15/lb sound right ?
Didn't someone tell me those bolts are around £4 EACH ???
If they are and IF they MUST be changed , that adds a lot to the cost of a self refurb...
All the best Brett
Dan, I refurbed the split rim wheels for my GT3 by seperating them,and then having them powder coated after shot blasting , spokes black, rims pale silver.
Powder coated as opposed to painting as it was explained to me that the corrosion occurred in the first place as a result of a reaction between the centres and rims.
I cleaned the the threads on each bolt with a wire brush in an electric drill, a pain as there are 20 bolts per wheel.
Several of the bolt holes in the rims had dodgy threads and in consequence a local engineering works drilled out the defective ones and fitted helicoils.
On re-assembly I used a smear of Loctite 270 on each bolt and tightened to 15 ft/lbs torque ( had to buy a new torque wrench to achieve this low setting ).
If you are anywhere near Plymouth I can lend you the torque wrench and the bottle of Loctite.
Hope this helps.
" tighten them cross-wise and a little each till you get to spec. " --------- absolutely correct.
Powder coated as opposed to painting as it was explained to me that the corrosion occurred in the first place as a result of a reaction between the centres and rims.
I cleaned the the threads on each bolt with a wire brush in an electric drill, a pain as there are 20 bolts per wheel.
Several of the bolt holes in the rims had dodgy threads and in consequence a local engineering works drilled out the defective ones and fitted helicoils.
On re-assembly I used a smear of Loctite 270 on each bolt and tightened to 15 ft/lbs torque ( had to buy a new torque wrench to achieve this low setting ).
If you are anywhere near Plymouth I can lend you the torque wrench and the bottle of Loctite.
Hope this helps.
" tighten them cross-wise and a little each till you get to spec. " --------- absolutely correct.
Edited by runner911 on Tuesday 26th August 19:00
runner911 said:
Dan, I refurbed the split rim wheels for my GT3 by seperating them,and then having them powder coated after shot blasting , spokes black, rims pale silver.
Powder coated as opposed to painting as it was explained to me that the corrosion occurred in the first place as a result of a reaction between the centres and rims.
I cleaned the the threads on each bolt with a wire brush in an electric drill, a pain as there are 20 bolts per wheel.
Several of the bolt holes in the rims had dodgy threads and in consequence a local engineering works drilled out the defective ones and fitted helicoils.
On re-assembly I used a smear of Loctite 270 on each bolt and tightened to 15 ft/lbs torque ( had to buy a new torque wrench to achieve this low setting ).
If you are anywhere near Plymouth I can lend you the torque wrench and the bottle of Loctite.
Hope this helps.
" tighten them cross-wise and a little each till you get to spec. " --------- absolutely correct.
I have gone for them being painted.. So they shine.. Did you use new bolts ? When speaking to a few re-ferb company's none of them said about new bolts ?Powder coated as opposed to painting as it was explained to me that the corrosion occurred in the first place as a result of a reaction between the centres and rims.
I cleaned the the threads on each bolt with a wire brush in an electric drill, a pain as there are 20 bolts per wheel.
Several of the bolt holes in the rims had dodgy threads and in consequence a local engineering works drilled out the defective ones and fitted helicoils.
On re-assembly I used a smear of Loctite 270 on each bolt and tightened to 15 ft/lbs torque ( had to buy a new torque wrench to achieve this low setting ).
If you are anywhere near Plymouth I can lend you the torque wrench and the bottle of Loctite.
Hope this helps.
" tighten them cross-wise and a little each till you get to spec. " --------- absolutely correct.
Edited by runner911 on Tuesday 26th August 19:00
I was just going to send them away, but felt I would love to have ago myself..
runner911 said:
Dan, No I didn't use new bolts. The torque to which they are subjected on initial assembly, apparently doesn't warrant renewal unless damaged in some way.
I was advised that they are made of stainless steel.
Thank you.. All the bolts came out ok, so I will lock-tight them back in !I was advised that they are made of stainless steel.
What colour did you do yours ? Any pic's ??
15lbs and blue loctite, that's how I did mine about 2 years ago, also dotted the bolts with marker when finished to check if they ever move, same as the rim, details about mine are on my website.
Bolts were £1.50 each from Jasmine.
BBS wouldn't talk to me, and other parts traders wanted 3-4£ each.
Regards
Kevin
Bolts were £1.50 each from Jasmine.
BBS wouldn't talk to me, and other parts traders wanted 3-4£ each.
Regards
Kevin
15lbs, no new bolts, I reused nearly all of mine, was told that is how it's done. Now issues since.
Website is http://www.964kevin.homecall.co.uk small text at the top wheels is the link you need.
Kevin
Website is http://www.964kevin.homecall.co.uk small text at the top wheels is the link you need.
Kevin
Dan,
Runout was to make sure I'd bolted the rims and centres together properly, i.e. not got anything caught underneath that would skew the seating. Just a check I'm used to doing though my old engineering days I guess. Its another reason why you shouldn't paint the mating faces, you can't guarantee the paint thickness being even throughout the surfaces.
Wheels were fitted a day later, made sure it gives the loctite enough time to go off properly, you can use accelerants, but as it was a warm sunny day, I let them go off in the sun for a day, then fitted them.
Regards
kevin
Runout was to make sure I'd bolted the rims and centres together properly, i.e. not got anything caught underneath that would skew the seating. Just a check I'm used to doing though my old engineering days I guess. Its another reason why you shouldn't paint the mating faces, you can't guarantee the paint thickness being even throughout the surfaces.
Wheels were fitted a day later, made sure it gives the loctite enough time to go off properly, you can use accelerants, but as it was a warm sunny day, I let them go off in the sun for a day, then fitted them.
Regards
kevin
i split and re-furbed a set of BBS RS last year:
I forget the torque settings but there is a good guide here: http://www.the-polisher.com/id6.html
I used a high modulous(sp?) bathroom sealant (get from diy/plumbing shop). Gave all surfaces in contact a light sand and then a good clean before i sealing. They never leaked whilst i had them and the current owner tells me they are still fine.
did use new bolts tho, the cost of which can be offset by putting your old ones on ebay.
I forget the torque settings but there is a good guide here: http://www.the-polisher.com/id6.html
I used a high modulous(sp?) bathroom sealant (get from diy/plumbing shop). Gave all surfaces in contact a light sand and then a good clean before i sealing. They never leaked whilst i had them and the current owner tells me they are still fine.
did use new bolts tho, the cost of which can be offset by putting your old ones on ebay.
fergus said:
PolarExpress said:
Importantly, make sure you use new bolts as the bolts for splitrims are normally stretch bolts
I would be surprised to see stretch bolts on something requiring 15 lbft of torque. This doesn't sound correct.PolarExpress said:
fergus said:
PolarExpress said:
Importantly, make sure you use new bolts as the bolts for splitrims are normally stretch bolts
I would be surprised to see stretch bolts on something requiring 15 lbft of torque. This doesn't sound correct.Anyways, I spoke with Jasmine about mine before I took the leap, I was assured by their manner, so went ahead and did the work, much to teh chargrin of BBS, but hey the bolts haven't moved and I'm happy with teh result.
Kevin
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