M3 Evo top mount checks
Discussion
I had an advisory from my garage that the rear top mounts on my M3 needed replacing. They were only done in April I think so I want to check that they do in fact need changing but need a bit of advice about what to look for.
I've taken the boot carpet up and there doesn't seem to be much play in the top of the shock, however if I bounce the car then there is a definite clunking noise coming form that area. I've also noticed this noise from the NSR when turning right out of a junction.
So, any other tips about what I'm looking for and should check would be very welcome. I can take some pics if that would be any help.
I've taken the boot carpet up and there doesn't seem to be much play in the top of the shock, however if I bounce the car then there is a definite clunking noise coming form that area. I've also noticed this noise from the NSR when turning right out of a junction.
So, any other tips about what I'm looking for and should check would be very welcome. I can take some pics if that would be any help.
The trailing arm bushes were done at about the same time so I don't think it's those. I know it would be a premature failure of the uprated top mounts but from what I can tell, it looks like they're the culprit.
I'll probably change them myself and if they look really mullered I'll contact the retailer.
I'll probably change them myself and if they look really mullered I'll contact the retailer.
Just replaced my top mounts - the 'play' was pretty obvious on mine with the boot carpet out. They are very easy to inspect: jack the car up, remove 2 retaining nuts at the top and the bolt at the bottom of the shocker and the shocker comes off c/w top mount. Takes about 15 mins per side.
Rear top mounts are a know weak point on the car - especially if you're running uprated shocks. I have heard owners say they can fail very quickly. Uprated ones are available from the US
Rear top mounts are a know weak point on the car - especially if you're running uprated shocks. I have heard owners say they can fail very quickly. Uprated ones are available from the US
If it's not the top mount then the OEM springs have a habit of snapping, but I don't think that's what you've got fitted is it?
Standard top mounts are pretty weak, if there's any play in them then it might be worth changing them for uprated ones - E46 cab top mounts with Z3 reinforcement plates, or Rogues ones.
Standard top mounts are pretty weak, if there's any play in them then it might be worth changing them for uprated ones - E46 cab top mounts with Z3 reinforcement plates, or Rogues ones.
Thanks for the replies chaps, I am indeed running coilovers.
I've jacked the car up aswell as looking at them in the boot, so I suppose the next step is to actually remove them and have a proper look. The ones I've got now are uprated ones designed to deal with the coilies so I guess I'll find out what type those are and try a different 'uprated' set.
E46 cab ones with Z3 plates seem favourite on E36coupe, so I'll probably give those a bash.
I've jacked the car up aswell as looking at them in the boot, so I suppose the next step is to actually remove them and have a proper look. The ones I've got now are uprated ones designed to deal with the coilies so I guess I'll find out what type those are and try a different 'uprated' set.
E46 cab ones with Z3 plates seem favourite on E36coupe, so I'll probably give those a bash.
In the main you can tell if theyhave gone by lifting the car up and down by its rear arches, but I agree with prevous posts they do go a lot, there was also a batch of them sold a few years ago that werent very good quality, and as such didnt last.
Heres some words I wrote a few years ago, may help.
After owning over 12 E36 BMW's from a 325 to a GT2, including 2 x 3.0 M3 Coupes, a 3.0 Convertible and 4 x 3.2 Evolution Coupes both manual and SMG, 2 with ecu remaps, and two with New Vanos units prior to purchase, I have learned a fair bit of about the breed and thought I'd impart some knowledge for all you ebayers looking to buy one of what I consider to be the best value sport cars you can buy for prestige, power, style, comfort, handling and practicality. Hope it helps.
Things to check on a E36 BMW M3.
Rear Shocker top mounts ( They wear out, check by lifting car up and down via rear arch)
Vanos (An obvious one. Evos have twin vanos, problems usually show round 45,000 Miles, but cars advertised as having a new one are not always a good thing. The usual issue is leaking solenoid seals, a good independent dealer can replace these for circa £250)
Exhaust (Rear box over £500 and Cats very expensive, they rust at front and rear, where they mount to exhaust pipe, check for blow) at
Tyres (For a good set of Michelin Pilot Sports (They handle best with these as were fitted std) youre looking at £600)
Side Mouldings (The M Sport mouldings have metal inside them, these rust and the clips break off, enure all mouldings are close the the body of the car)
A/C (Ensure the ac blows cold as the ac system is expensive to fix if theres a leak in the condensor unit, up to £500 if its too cold the ac does,nt run, this is a feature)
Window Mouldings (A simple job, but the side rubbers by the rear windows perish, makes the car look old)
Door Rubbers (If ripped, they are expensive to replace)
Electric Windows (Check windows go up automatically, if not the units that control the window stop may have gone, which is a pain as they wont close unless you hold down the swtich, and full closure alarms wont b able to close the window, nor can you on the key.)
Keys (Most M3's from 94 ownwards have chip encoded keys that have to be programed t match the car, so if you only have one key than can be expensive)
Alloys (If they have diamond cut alloys most reburbishers will not touch them, as the laquer comes straight off again, and also if they are damaged bmw charge alot for a new one)
Keys (The M3 uses transponder keys, so getting a new one is costly, ensure you have at least 2 and 2 alarm fobs)
Front end (Check the bonnet catches are not to new, as these often get replaced on front end shunts. Check inner wing seam welds, should be neat and match each other, make sure all original bmw stickers ore on the front slam panel, and inner wings. Make sure bumper lines up, after shunts they can be loose or uneven.
GearBox (Whatch the 2nd gear syncro, they can get worn when previous owners have been snatching 2nd gear in the 0-60 dash)
Clutch (A clutch will cost you a good £500 to fit, if the car has between 75K and 100K most are ready for a clutch)
Trailing Arm Rubbers (The rubbers on the front and rear trailing arms tend to need replacing circa 75K Get garage to check for you.
Lamdba Sensors (There burn out round 60K and there are2 of them on each cat)
Check oil levels for the hydrolic system, as if its low it will pop out of gear, can suddenly select nutrel when driving and give the occasional erorr code on the dash. when warm get the car in sport mode (not manual) and drive it hard through the gear range, ensure the clucth doesnt slip.
Check for standard equipment, as a bmw cd changer connection lead if the car doesnt have one is a good £50.00 and a new cd unit can be £300. Ebay is obviously a good place to get things, but the e36 cd changers are rare. Look for signs of paintwork, usual spots are round edge of windscreen rubbers, under the rear lights on the rear 1/4 where the 1/4 meets the rear panel, and inside the fuel filler area. None standard exhaust tend to be too noisy, like the scorpion type as they drown at motorway crusing speeds, thornely motorsport do some good performance bits I belive.
Most of this stuff is obvious, but I've learned the hard way Hope its of some use.
Heres some words I wrote a few years ago, may help.
After owning over 12 E36 BMW's from a 325 to a GT2, including 2 x 3.0 M3 Coupes, a 3.0 Convertible and 4 x 3.2 Evolution Coupes both manual and SMG, 2 with ecu remaps, and two with New Vanos units prior to purchase, I have learned a fair bit of about the breed and thought I'd impart some knowledge for all you ebayers looking to buy one of what I consider to be the best value sport cars you can buy for prestige, power, style, comfort, handling and practicality. Hope it helps.
Things to check on a E36 BMW M3.
Rear Shocker top mounts ( They wear out, check by lifting car up and down via rear arch)
Vanos (An obvious one. Evos have twin vanos, problems usually show round 45,000 Miles, but cars advertised as having a new one are not always a good thing. The usual issue is leaking solenoid seals, a good independent dealer can replace these for circa £250)
Exhaust (Rear box over £500 and Cats very expensive, they rust at front and rear, where they mount to exhaust pipe, check for blow) at
Tyres (For a good set of Michelin Pilot Sports (They handle best with these as were fitted std) youre looking at £600)
Side Mouldings (The M Sport mouldings have metal inside them, these rust and the clips break off, enure all mouldings are close the the body of the car)
A/C (Ensure the ac blows cold as the ac system is expensive to fix if theres a leak in the condensor unit, up to £500 if its too cold the ac does,nt run, this is a feature)
Window Mouldings (A simple job, but the side rubbers by the rear windows perish, makes the car look old)
Door Rubbers (If ripped, they are expensive to replace)
Electric Windows (Check windows go up automatically, if not the units that control the window stop may have gone, which is a pain as they wont close unless you hold down the swtich, and full closure alarms wont b able to close the window, nor can you on the key.)
Keys (Most M3's from 94 ownwards have chip encoded keys that have to be programed t match the car, so if you only have one key than can be expensive)
Alloys (If they have diamond cut alloys most reburbishers will not touch them, as the laquer comes straight off again, and also if they are damaged bmw charge alot for a new one)
Keys (The M3 uses transponder keys, so getting a new one is costly, ensure you have at least 2 and 2 alarm fobs)
Front end (Check the bonnet catches are not to new, as these often get replaced on front end shunts. Check inner wing seam welds, should be neat and match each other, make sure all original bmw stickers ore on the front slam panel, and inner wings. Make sure bumper lines up, after shunts they can be loose or uneven.
GearBox (Whatch the 2nd gear syncro, they can get worn when previous owners have been snatching 2nd gear in the 0-60 dash)
Clutch (A clutch will cost you a good £500 to fit, if the car has between 75K and 100K most are ready for a clutch)
Trailing Arm Rubbers (The rubbers on the front and rear trailing arms tend to need replacing circa 75K Get garage to check for you.
Lamdba Sensors (There burn out round 60K and there are2 of them on each cat)
Check oil levels for the hydrolic system, as if its low it will pop out of gear, can suddenly select nutrel when driving and give the occasional erorr code on the dash. when warm get the car in sport mode (not manual) and drive it hard through the gear range, ensure the clucth doesnt slip.
Check for standard equipment, as a bmw cd changer connection lead if the car doesnt have one is a good £50.00 and a new cd unit can be £300. Ebay is obviously a good place to get things, but the e36 cd changers are rare. Look for signs of paintwork, usual spots are round edge of windscreen rubbers, under the rear lights on the rear 1/4 where the 1/4 meets the rear panel, and inside the fuel filler area. None standard exhaust tend to be too noisy, like the scorpion type as they drown at motorway crusing speeds, thornely motorsport do some good performance bits I belive.
Most of this stuff is obvious, but I've learned the hard way Hope its of some use.
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