Running in my new R6
Discussion
i've just completed my 600 miles and had my first dealer service 
however - mechanic indicated to me that i should not go on motorways with it and sit at 70mph - cos i'd do damage to engine.
I had done that for about 200 miles of my 600 miles. It was varied a bit, 60-80 etc.
any thoughts on if that could cause damage?
2nd question - now i'm through that 7k limit - is it best to just wap it open fully?
Or should i increase rev range slowly, say 1000rpm every 100 miles etc?
however - mechanic indicated to me that i should not go on motorways with it and sit at 70mph - cos i'd do damage to engine.
I had done that for about 200 miles of my 600 miles. It was varied a bit, 60-80 etc.
any thoughts on if that could cause damage?
2nd question - now i'm through that 7k limit - is it best to just wap it open fully?
Or should i increase rev range slowly, say 1000rpm every 100 miles etc?
RacerMDR said:
i've just completed my 600 miles and had my first dealer service
however - mechanic indicated to me that i should not go on motorways with it and sit at 70mph - cos i'd do damage to engine.
I had done that for about 200 miles of my 600 miles. It was varied a bit, 60-80 etc.
any thoughts on if that could cause damage?
No.however - mechanic indicated to me that i should not go on motorways with it and sit at 70mph - cos i'd do damage to engine.
I had done that for about 200 miles of my 600 miles. It was varied a bit, 60-80 etc.
any thoughts on if that could cause damage?
RacerMDR said:
2nd question - now i'm through that 7k limit - is it best to just wap it open fully?
Or should i increase rev range slowly, say 1000rpm every 100 miles etc?
I'd do what your handbook says and if it doesn't talk about running in I'd just ride it at your own pace.Or should i increase rev range slowly, say 1000rpm every 100 miles etc?
I ran my Triple is as my manual said. But there was no mention about how to rack up the miles. So I did the first 500 miles (for triumphs)in 10 days from motroways at max recommended rev's and some more fun twisty roads.
I will add on thr Triumph its first 150 miles was not more than 3500 revs. whihc was utter nasty to do. Max of 60-65MPH. hated it but runs great now and loved coming off the limiter at the odd occashion
I will add on thr Triumph its first 150 miles was not more than 3500 revs. whihc was utter nasty to do. Max of 60-65MPH. hated it but runs great now and loved coming off the limiter at the odd occashion
Edited by RemaL on Tuesday 23 September 16:24
As I have suggested many times before on BB, RAG IT FROM NEW!! See Link.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Never harmed my last bikes. I have worked in Hot-Test in the Automotive Industry in the past and can confirm that your engine has seen worse at the factory before being fitted to its frame.
Just don't load the engine or bog it down.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Never harmed my last bikes. I have worked in Hot-Test in the Automotive Industry in the past and can confirm that your engine has seen worse at the factory before being fitted to its frame.
Just don't load the engine or bog it down.
Edited by veetwin on Tuesday 23 September 16:31
Anyone remember that old MCN article where they caned a (think it was) GSXR600 from new and had an identical one which they ran in as per instruction. After several thousand miles the thrashed one made a good few extra BHP - I think it was circa 5. So if you're not planning on keeping it long...
Just kidding. The point of running in an engine is to allow all the friction surfaces to "mate". The worst things you can do are V High Revs, Full thottle low revs in a high gear (i.e. the engine is labouring), and as your mech said sustained RPM. Even if you have cruised at motorway speeds for long periods, it won't be the end of the world.
One thing I would strongly recommend when running in is a mag filter for the first thousand miles (that said, I'd leave it on as it keeps all the metalic particles out of the bearings, etc.)
ETA Damn beaten too it.
Just kidding. The point of running in an engine is to allow all the friction surfaces to "mate". The worst things you can do are V High Revs, Full thottle low revs in a high gear (i.e. the engine is labouring), and as your mech said sustained RPM. Even if you have cruised at motorway speeds for long periods, it won't be the end of the world.
One thing I would strongly recommend when running in is a mag filter for the first thousand miles (that said, I'd leave it on as it keeps all the metalic particles out of the bearings, etc.)
ETA Damn beaten too it.
Edited by rhinochopig on Tuesday 23 September 16:33
veetwin said:
As I have suggested many times before on BB, RAG IT FROM NEW!! See Link.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Never harmed my last bikes. I have worked in Hot-Test in the Automotive Industry in the past and can confirm that your engine has seen worse at the factory before being fitted to its frame.
Just don't load the engine or bog it down.
Interesting, especially as I remember reading the same thing, but can't some modern ECUs tell how the engine has been run in?http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Never harmed my last bikes. I have worked in Hot-Test in the Automotive Industry in the past and can confirm that your engine has seen worse at the factory before being fitted to its frame.
Just don't load the engine or bog it down.
Edited by veetwin on Tuesday 23 September 16:31
thanks all
well - after my service i went up to 10k revs (as per the handbook) - and f**K me was it a different level of quick to sub 7k. So i guess i'll just take it easy for the next 1000 miles ramping it up slowly.
I do want to keep the bike for 3 years - so i figured i'd try and treat it well.
I can't believe how good it is!
well - after my service i went up to 10k revs (as per the handbook) - and f**K me was it a different level of quick to sub 7k. So i guess i'll just take it easy for the next 1000 miles ramping it up slowly.
I do want to keep the bike for 3 years - so i figured i'd try and treat it well.
I can't believe how good it is!
RacerMDR said:
cheers Chilli - i'm trying not to scare myself to death - and so far its doing a good job up to 10k
its my first superbike - prior i've been on Bandits and SVs
its a bigger step in performance than i expected!
slowly slowly catchy monkey
Good idea, that! Hope the weather holds out for ya for a while.its my first superbike - prior i've been on Bandits and SVs
its a bigger step in performance than i expected!
slowly slowly catchy monkey
100 miles is all you need to take it easy for and that is just to get rid of the release compound from the tyres, bed the clutch and brake pads (so they don't glaze) and stretch the chain slowly.
Then cane it. I've bought 2 ZX6'R's from new. No problems at all with either burning oil after they'd done mileage and I'd only done a 100 mile run in with both.
Tolerance and cylinder coatings are so exacting these days, there's not the casting flash and excess metal to bed in these days on new bikes as far as I'm concerned....
Can't do any harm running it in, just pointless after the 100 miles bedding in the bits that really need bedding in.
Then cane it. I've bought 2 ZX6'R's from new. No problems at all with either burning oil after they'd done mileage and I'd only done a 100 mile run in with both.
Tolerance and cylinder coatings are so exacting these days, there's not the casting flash and excess metal to bed in these days on new bikes as far as I'm concerned....
Can't do any harm running it in, just pointless after the 100 miles bedding in the bits that really need bedding in.
All engines are bench run at the factory to check for oil leaks and power output. This entails running the engine to maximum revs for a sustained period of time - some minutes at least. The engine is then flushed and refilled with clean oil for consumer sale.
There is no need to 'run-in' an engine since this has basically been done at the factory. There is a need to 'run-in' components such as suspension, tyres, head & swinging-arm bearings. Also it's a way of the manufacturer making sure you get used to the bike gradually which is a good idea for everyone involved
Here is an example from Porsche, not a bike manufacturer but they will go through the same process:
http://www.porsche.com/international/aboutporsche/...
There is no need to 'run-in' an engine since this has basically been done at the factory. There is a need to 'run-in' components such as suspension, tyres, head & swinging-arm bearings. Also it's a way of the manufacturer making sure you get used to the bike gradually which is a good idea for everyone involved
Here is an example from Porsche, not a bike manufacturer but they will go through the same process:
http://www.porsche.com/international/aboutporsche/...
Edited by Silver993tt on Tuesday 23 September 19:21
Silver993tt said:
Also it's a way of the manufacturer making sure you get used to the bike gradually which is a good idea for everyone involved
Good point! I guess if the owner's handbook insisted that the first 100 miles involved ragging the arse off the bike, many new riders would end up in the scenery. Especially with modern engines and their power outputs. I'd be scared to use the full rev range on any sports bike until I'd got a 'feel' for it...
Chilli said:
cyberface said:
Good point! I guess if the owner's handbook insisted that the first 100 miles involved ragging the arse off the bike, many new riders would end up in the scenery.
Pah, it's character building!!If the 'incident' or 'incidents' in question were funny, then what happened? If you were injured, I am sorry.
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