Discussion
For the many on here that have owned these I need some advice.
I need a cheap run around as I am binning the company car scheme, as I pay for cars I don't rate..
So I have been offered a nice 05 plate black 182 with 32k on the clock for £5500, the question is how can I tell what packs and such it has on it?
It has the dark alloys, it has climate,it has the alcantara interior..
What else can I check to know what of the cup packs are on it.. (renault dealer couldn't view this on his system)
I need a cheap run around as I am binning the company car scheme, as I pay for cars I don't rate..
So I have been offered a nice 05 plate black 182 with 32k on the clock for £5500, the question is how can I tell what packs and such it has on it?
It has the dark alloys, it has climate,it has the alcantara interior..
What else can I check to know what of the cup packs are on it.. (renault dealer couldn't view this on his system)
I know this is a bit of a mick take as you have to be a paid up CS member to view this on www.cliosport.net but here is the buyers guide by one of the best mechs on the site.
http://www.cliosport.net//forum/showthread.php?t=2...
172/182 buyers guide
First thing is have a read of the frequent/changes in production etc as listed on this thread
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=18...
If you want more info on anything written here best do a search as I’ve tried not go into to much depth for fear of it becoming to large.
Ok things to look out for or check.
Exterior
Check for the normal scratches dents etc also check the sills of the car for bending whilst not a huge issue it doesn’t look good and shows poor signs of the car being jacked/possible accident damage.
One thing to check if the presence of a sticker on the drivers door which tell you the oval plate details of the car If this is missing then it can show the cars been re sprayed and the sticker not replaced etc. The vin though are also available from the passenger side of the car down the bottom of the windscreen viewable form the outside and also under the bonnet. (see this link for more info)Clio codes (for the dialogues) and what the oval plate says about your car
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11...
If the car isn't a 182 Cup or 172 Cup check the front xenon washer jet balls are there and work they are a common failure point and whilst there are a few fixes no one is perfect.
You have the choice of either
New washer jet i.e. bumper off and replace - may well fail again
Just swap the washer jet ball its less effort than taking the bumper off- may fail again in fact its more likely.
Superglue the ball back in place- Make sure you get it in the right spot else you'll need to buy a new one this if done right is a good method though.
Unplug the jets - its easy to do just unplug the lines from behind the jets and no leaks just remember to bung up the pipes- There supposed to be connected all the time legally.
Check for accident damage its a hot hatch and more so in the case of the 172 Cup they do get crashed and sometimes bodged repairs so check for any areas of rust
They shouldn't rust at all really as the protects is very good only possible place is the chassis frame under the car if you jack on them it can peal the under seal off over time.
Check in the boot under the carpet for any deformation
Check If you are looking at a 172 Cup or a 182 Cup or a 182 with the cup spoiler pack then check at the front of the car under the bumper for a small black plastic spoiler there no cheap new (£130ish) and break a lot. They should be fitted though but often there damaged or not fitted new and owners don't care or don't know there missing them.
Check under the front of the car for the under bonnet cover its a big plastic cover under the engine its only thin plastic it helps keeps the underside of the engine clean and catches any oil drips.
One thing if the car your looking at has sat nav then the DVD disks aren’t cheap also in the case of the 182 the spoiler pack couldn't (shouldn't have) been fitted since the bigger rear spoiler caught to much on the sat nav aerial to much however some have been added later on but this may explain why it has sat nav and only the rear spoiler not splitter as it was added after build
Check the rear lights faulty rear light of any type isusually down to a poor earthing connected/water getting in them so dry the unit and fix and check the earthing point on the left hand side of the car in the boot down below the upper seat belt point for a good connection its under the side covr.
Mechanics
Check the engine doesn’t move much (only way to explain how much they should move is to compare with other 172/182's) however loads of engine movement should show up on a test drive.
If your looking at a 182 normal car then check for a engine cover it doesn’t make much different the 172 Cup didn't have them etc to save cost and weight its there to help make the engine bay look tidier and reduce noise a bit but it does very little owners often remove it to see the engine more, easier access to parts and under the excuse of weight saving.
The exhaust on the 172 and 182 aren’t great the 172 biggest issue is the fact the back box is to heavy and so within about 3 years it breaks the weld to the front pipe most p[people then change for an aftermarket exhaust as stock is about the same price. It can be fixed if you take it to a garage etc they’ll see what the issue is and could weld up the exhaust with a stiffener or weld and extra bracket to hold the back box in place better. The 182 isn't the same system (since it take the place where the spare wheel well is but it can suffer from the same rattles from the mid section etc.
If your looking at a 182 one thing to remember is there two type (Trophy excepted)
There the 182 (with the cup spoiler and suspension packs) this has climate leather seats (well part) and xenon’s etc. This is sometimes called the full fat on here its not anything official just the name the forum often uses.
Then there’s the 182 Cup this has both suspension and spoiler/splitter packs as standard but doesn't have the leather seats xenon’s or climate (air con instead).
The presence of Cup was symbolised by the darker coloured wheels but since some cars had the wheels swapped at dealers and aftermarket swaps and since the wheels bar the colour where the same then its impossible to be certain by looking at the wheels if it has the pack then only way to be sure is to turn the front wheels and measure the hub bolt spacing from the centre of one bolt to the other.
60mm means you have the cup suspension pack
54mm means you don't have the cup suspension pack
Drive shaft gaiters can fail like any car and since there such a pain to properly chnage for proper Renaul ones often best getting a whole new shaft which ins't cheap Abs rings can come loose (east to chnage realy) and cause ABS warning lights a new ring can be bought but many dealers cannot find the part number/price but they are there.
Check the washer jets work they do get blocked.
Due to certain magazines write ups many people refuse to by non cupped cars and IMO regardless of what I was doing even if I were changing the suspension I'd get a car with the cup pack for the resale. Most cars have the suspension pack though.
Check the oil level though also if you have the engine cover removed check the head area for oil the seal isn't great often and since the repair is 7.1 hour and necessitates a new cam belt its not worth fixing just to stop a little oil leak however since the oil level sensor isn't that good and since the sensor tell you when your low with oil without having to open the bonnet many owners actually check the level and it can run low.
If your after a car with more HP remember that whilst there tuning bits out there they are not cheap £1.5k will see you about 190~195hp. So claims of a remap and induction kit for 200hp are false.
Check the stearing to full lock often the strut tops under the bonnet for the strut catch on the body the Renault offical fix it to grind some of the material form the bodty the other fix is to leave it or to stick some washer under the strut tops as per the Clio V6 has to lift the top as such.
Interior
The biggest thing can be rattles/squeaks etc some cars are worse than others you can try and fix the noises stripping the dash top off and taping it all down etc but really depends how bad it is.
The seats should be in god condition wear on the side bolsters can be down to how the owners gets in the car etc.
Check the steering wheel for damage/wear depending on use etc they do wear and the finger grips bits can come away /fray etc they can be stuck down etc but cannot be bought separate a proper new wheel is £350 or so no one bothers getting a new one. One thing that can damage them is the wearing of hand cream and wedding rings.
Anther thing which can be damaged by the wearing of a ring etc is the gear knob they are quite cheap and easy to replace really if you are bothered.
Check the condition of the gearbox gaiter there only cheap but when the dog bone mount wears etc they can break the clips if stretched to far needing a new one.
Check the seat belt handles all work fixes arn't to diffuclt or expensive but somehting to check.
Under the cigarette ash tray (pull it out) you'll see a little cover over a diagnostic port if you have access to a proper code reader then you could plug in here and check for any fault codes into showing up on the dashboard warning lights but those that do are usually insignificant anyway.
Check the foot wells for the front and rear seats for water the front seats are down to a blocked valve/air con filter etc the rears are foten down the rear seat bar the holes let water although faulty rear window seals are common.
Check all the electrics work windows particularly and the climate control works it there a buzzing sound when its on it could well just be the little fan in the console on the roof which blows air over the interior temp sensor for the climate easy/cheap to change though. The system isn't great making cold air but if it is poor often re-gas fixes it.
When starting the car ideally turn the key so all the light come on then wait for them to go off before starting the car check the warning light etc go out the SERV light doesn't indicate servicing just that the car has a fault which needs sorting.
Check under the passenger seat for presence of a CD changer if the CD changer cable is there then there was one fitted and someone removed it at some time. Some cars didn't have them as standard though.
172 phase 1 had them as standard
172 phase 2 early models wee standard later models you had to pay for it approx when the cars came with stability/cruise control it came as as option instead.
182 had then as an option only.
The cable isn't cheap at near £90 but the changers since there easy to remove are much cheaper you can often get a changer for £60.
The airbag warning light can come on the most common issue is the wiring under the seats going wrong the fix is detailed here
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=10...
Driving
The handling should be very good it one of the things that got it a good reputation so anything unto wards should raise suspicion one thing maybe the cars rear end twitchiness the rear dampers can leak/fail quite quickly there only £100 or so for two new ones and a few minutes to fit.
Check the car stops and steers straight as the brakes are superb on the car tracking can be an issue it just might need adjusting. In the case of a 182 the wheels used can cause the brake fluid to boil off as the wheels don't let the brakes cool off so in the case of a 182 if the brakes feel like they need bleeding they probably do.
Check for any clicking etc noises its difficult to say what exactly but comparing cars is the best idea.
When driving the car at a fair few rpm lift off the throttle and check for engine shake it its really bad then the engine will knock itself out of gear. Its caused by the engine mounts wearing/moving the usually one is the dog bone one which is quite cheap and quick to replace. IMO stick with the stock one do not up rate it. Other mount can wear though including the top mount (driver side) and the battery mount and the 4th gearbox to sub frame one. There not that badly priced for new ones and fitment is not to difficult either.
Also as a note the gearbox isn't the best ever to use it shouldn't crunch or grind etc just the feel is nothing like say a VAG etc.
The clutch is very heavy and has a high bite point its normal though again best compare with other 172/182 cars but yes they are heavy and high with a small bite point. Also the clutch release bearing can wear a lot stick the car into neutral and with your foot down you'll hear it wine it will last though many have wines for ages before they are sold on etc so life span is unclear and sicne a chnage of them is a 7 hour job (and you should change the clutch at the same time as the cars stripped down loads to get to it).
PAs can be a bit noisy the 182 is better due to pipes being chnaged. Pipes cna leak etc so check level etc plus the fuild does need to be changed oftne a chnage of fluid helps wonder.s
When you start the car from cold you'll notice the idle isn't great this is due to the mapping its not to bad but as I've said earlier best compare to other cars. They can have trouble idling with dirty throttle bodies faulty sensors etc best way to describe what’s normal is it doesn’t sound perfect but on the rev counter its stable. If it sounds like a tractor or doesn't start well then that’s not right it should start straight off as such.
Things to check when driving
Temp gauge goes up to the middle and doesn’t move if ,it goes up and down then shows a faulty temp sensor its a common issue only cheap to change need to check the loom isn't frade as well though.
When cold the car has a lower red line about 6k leave it to warm up and it goes to 7.2k.
Service history
See this link for what details Renault UK required at a minimum for normal cars under normal driving condition cars used on short trips and different circumstances were given shorter service rules but few people ever take note of this (sometimes at there cost)
HOWEVER do remember this is the minimum rule IMO the servicing should be done more regularly ever 6k change the oil at minimum.
Some dealers did incorrectly advice owners that the 18k/2 year was how often the car needed servicing so if the service history shows this remember that it wasn't what was recommended by Renault Uk warranty rules and if you are looking at a car with warranty that Renault Uk might not look favourably and ask for a percentage contribution if correct servicing had been done on time. Also remember the stamp means nothing really fakes stamps have been used before now and will be in future maybe try contact the dealership ask if they really did service the car.
Check the AUX belt has been changed ever 36k though or else change it its not cheap as its 2.7 hour labour if you have a car with air con or 5 minutes if your lucky and have a normal 172 Cup. The servicing used to allow the belt to stay as with the cam belt to 72k hence why many dealers think its Ok to leave ti that long however there were so many failures that the service rules were changed down to 36k at a maximum. When they do fail they make a right mess they 99.9% of the time take out the cam belt so your looking at £1k at best to fix it since it will have wrecked valves new cam belt is needed etc.
Price
Best check against other prices on auto trader (remember this is only what people are asking not getting so maybe try ring them see how well there selling but remember not everyone will be totally honest) and Parkers etc
Extra things to check
Two keys are present and both work (at £120 or so minimum for a replacement its worth checking)
Check the locking wheel nut keys (there should be two) are present and correct and ideally check they work.
In the case of 182's and 172 Cups that the bottles of tyre foam inflator are present (only cheap but worth a few quid discount)
Import 172 don't have (as stanard) locking wheel nuts (one per wheel), Window etching, alarm fitted as standard/embbed into the reciever.
http://www.cliosport.net//forum/showthread.php?t=2...
172/182 buyers guide
First thing is have a read of the frequent/changes in production etc as listed on this thread
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=18...
If you want more info on anything written here best do a search as I’ve tried not go into to much depth for fear of it becoming to large.
Ok things to look out for or check.
Exterior
Check for the normal scratches dents etc also check the sills of the car for bending whilst not a huge issue it doesn’t look good and shows poor signs of the car being jacked/possible accident damage.
One thing to check if the presence of a sticker on the drivers door which tell you the oval plate details of the car If this is missing then it can show the cars been re sprayed and the sticker not replaced etc. The vin though are also available from the passenger side of the car down the bottom of the windscreen viewable form the outside and also under the bonnet. (see this link for more info)Clio codes (for the dialogues) and what the oval plate says about your car
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11...
If the car isn't a 182 Cup or 172 Cup check the front xenon washer jet balls are there and work they are a common failure point and whilst there are a few fixes no one is perfect.
You have the choice of either
New washer jet i.e. bumper off and replace - may well fail again
Just swap the washer jet ball its less effort than taking the bumper off- may fail again in fact its more likely.
Superglue the ball back in place- Make sure you get it in the right spot else you'll need to buy a new one this if done right is a good method though.
Unplug the jets - its easy to do just unplug the lines from behind the jets and no leaks just remember to bung up the pipes- There supposed to be connected all the time legally.
Check for accident damage its a hot hatch and more so in the case of the 172 Cup they do get crashed and sometimes bodged repairs so check for any areas of rust
They shouldn't rust at all really as the protects is very good only possible place is the chassis frame under the car if you jack on them it can peal the under seal off over time.
Check in the boot under the carpet for any deformation
Check If you are looking at a 172 Cup or a 182 Cup or a 182 with the cup spoiler pack then check at the front of the car under the bumper for a small black plastic spoiler there no cheap new (£130ish) and break a lot. They should be fitted though but often there damaged or not fitted new and owners don't care or don't know there missing them.
Check under the front of the car for the under bonnet cover its a big plastic cover under the engine its only thin plastic it helps keeps the underside of the engine clean and catches any oil drips.
One thing if the car your looking at has sat nav then the DVD disks aren’t cheap also in the case of the 182 the spoiler pack couldn't (shouldn't have) been fitted since the bigger rear spoiler caught to much on the sat nav aerial to much however some have been added later on but this may explain why it has sat nav and only the rear spoiler not splitter as it was added after build
Check the rear lights faulty rear light of any type isusually down to a poor earthing connected/water getting in them so dry the unit and fix and check the earthing point on the left hand side of the car in the boot down below the upper seat belt point for a good connection its under the side covr.
Mechanics
Check the engine doesn’t move much (only way to explain how much they should move is to compare with other 172/182's) however loads of engine movement should show up on a test drive.
If your looking at a 182 normal car then check for a engine cover it doesn’t make much different the 172 Cup didn't have them etc to save cost and weight its there to help make the engine bay look tidier and reduce noise a bit but it does very little owners often remove it to see the engine more, easier access to parts and under the excuse of weight saving.
The exhaust on the 172 and 182 aren’t great the 172 biggest issue is the fact the back box is to heavy and so within about 3 years it breaks the weld to the front pipe most p[people then change for an aftermarket exhaust as stock is about the same price. It can be fixed if you take it to a garage etc they’ll see what the issue is and could weld up the exhaust with a stiffener or weld and extra bracket to hold the back box in place better. The 182 isn't the same system (since it take the place where the spare wheel well is but it can suffer from the same rattles from the mid section etc.
If your looking at a 182 one thing to remember is there two type (Trophy excepted)
There the 182 (with the cup spoiler and suspension packs) this has climate leather seats (well part) and xenon’s etc. This is sometimes called the full fat on here its not anything official just the name the forum often uses.
Then there’s the 182 Cup this has both suspension and spoiler/splitter packs as standard but doesn't have the leather seats xenon’s or climate (air con instead).
The presence of Cup was symbolised by the darker coloured wheels but since some cars had the wheels swapped at dealers and aftermarket swaps and since the wheels bar the colour where the same then its impossible to be certain by looking at the wheels if it has the pack then only way to be sure is to turn the front wheels and measure the hub bolt spacing from the centre of one bolt to the other.
60mm means you have the cup suspension pack
54mm means you don't have the cup suspension pack
Drive shaft gaiters can fail like any car and since there such a pain to properly chnage for proper Renaul ones often best getting a whole new shaft which ins't cheap Abs rings can come loose (east to chnage realy) and cause ABS warning lights a new ring can be bought but many dealers cannot find the part number/price but they are there.
Check the washer jets work they do get blocked.
Due to certain magazines write ups many people refuse to by non cupped cars and IMO regardless of what I was doing even if I were changing the suspension I'd get a car with the cup pack for the resale. Most cars have the suspension pack though.
Check the oil level though also if you have the engine cover removed check the head area for oil the seal isn't great often and since the repair is 7.1 hour and necessitates a new cam belt its not worth fixing just to stop a little oil leak however since the oil level sensor isn't that good and since the sensor tell you when your low with oil without having to open the bonnet many owners actually check the level and it can run low.
If your after a car with more HP remember that whilst there tuning bits out there they are not cheap £1.5k will see you about 190~195hp. So claims of a remap and induction kit for 200hp are false.
Check the stearing to full lock often the strut tops under the bonnet for the strut catch on the body the Renault offical fix it to grind some of the material form the bodty the other fix is to leave it or to stick some washer under the strut tops as per the Clio V6 has to lift the top as such.
Interior
The biggest thing can be rattles/squeaks etc some cars are worse than others you can try and fix the noises stripping the dash top off and taping it all down etc but really depends how bad it is.
The seats should be in god condition wear on the side bolsters can be down to how the owners gets in the car etc.
Check the steering wheel for damage/wear depending on use etc they do wear and the finger grips bits can come away /fray etc they can be stuck down etc but cannot be bought separate a proper new wheel is £350 or so no one bothers getting a new one. One thing that can damage them is the wearing of hand cream and wedding rings.
Anther thing which can be damaged by the wearing of a ring etc is the gear knob they are quite cheap and easy to replace really if you are bothered.
Check the condition of the gearbox gaiter there only cheap but when the dog bone mount wears etc they can break the clips if stretched to far needing a new one.
Check the seat belt handles all work fixes arn't to diffuclt or expensive but somehting to check.
Under the cigarette ash tray (pull it out) you'll see a little cover over a diagnostic port if you have access to a proper code reader then you could plug in here and check for any fault codes into showing up on the dashboard warning lights but those that do are usually insignificant anyway.
Check the foot wells for the front and rear seats for water the front seats are down to a blocked valve/air con filter etc the rears are foten down the rear seat bar the holes let water although faulty rear window seals are common.
Check all the electrics work windows particularly and the climate control works it there a buzzing sound when its on it could well just be the little fan in the console on the roof which blows air over the interior temp sensor for the climate easy/cheap to change though. The system isn't great making cold air but if it is poor often re-gas fixes it.
When starting the car ideally turn the key so all the light come on then wait for them to go off before starting the car check the warning light etc go out the SERV light doesn't indicate servicing just that the car has a fault which needs sorting.
Check under the passenger seat for presence of a CD changer if the CD changer cable is there then there was one fitted and someone removed it at some time. Some cars didn't have them as standard though.
172 phase 1 had them as standard
172 phase 2 early models wee standard later models you had to pay for it approx when the cars came with stability/cruise control it came as as option instead.
182 had then as an option only.
The cable isn't cheap at near £90 but the changers since there easy to remove are much cheaper you can often get a changer for £60.
The airbag warning light can come on the most common issue is the wiring under the seats going wrong the fix is detailed here
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=10...
Driving
The handling should be very good it one of the things that got it a good reputation so anything unto wards should raise suspicion one thing maybe the cars rear end twitchiness the rear dampers can leak/fail quite quickly there only £100 or so for two new ones and a few minutes to fit.
Check the car stops and steers straight as the brakes are superb on the car tracking can be an issue it just might need adjusting. In the case of a 182 the wheels used can cause the brake fluid to boil off as the wheels don't let the brakes cool off so in the case of a 182 if the brakes feel like they need bleeding they probably do.
Check for any clicking etc noises its difficult to say what exactly but comparing cars is the best idea.
When driving the car at a fair few rpm lift off the throttle and check for engine shake it its really bad then the engine will knock itself out of gear. Its caused by the engine mounts wearing/moving the usually one is the dog bone one which is quite cheap and quick to replace. IMO stick with the stock one do not up rate it. Other mount can wear though including the top mount (driver side) and the battery mount and the 4th gearbox to sub frame one. There not that badly priced for new ones and fitment is not to difficult either.
Also as a note the gearbox isn't the best ever to use it shouldn't crunch or grind etc just the feel is nothing like say a VAG etc.
The clutch is very heavy and has a high bite point its normal though again best compare with other 172/182 cars but yes they are heavy and high with a small bite point. Also the clutch release bearing can wear a lot stick the car into neutral and with your foot down you'll hear it wine it will last though many have wines for ages before they are sold on etc so life span is unclear and sicne a chnage of them is a 7 hour job (and you should change the clutch at the same time as the cars stripped down loads to get to it).
PAs can be a bit noisy the 182 is better due to pipes being chnaged. Pipes cna leak etc so check level etc plus the fuild does need to be changed oftne a chnage of fluid helps wonder.s
When you start the car from cold you'll notice the idle isn't great this is due to the mapping its not to bad but as I've said earlier best compare to other cars. They can have trouble idling with dirty throttle bodies faulty sensors etc best way to describe what’s normal is it doesn’t sound perfect but on the rev counter its stable. If it sounds like a tractor or doesn't start well then that’s not right it should start straight off as such.
Things to check when driving
Temp gauge goes up to the middle and doesn’t move if ,it goes up and down then shows a faulty temp sensor its a common issue only cheap to change need to check the loom isn't frade as well though.
When cold the car has a lower red line about 6k leave it to warm up and it goes to 7.2k.
Service history
See this link for what details Renault UK required at a minimum for normal cars under normal driving condition cars used on short trips and different circumstances were given shorter service rules but few people ever take note of this (sometimes at there cost)
HOWEVER do remember this is the minimum rule IMO the servicing should be done more regularly ever 6k change the oil at minimum.
Some dealers did incorrectly advice owners that the 18k/2 year was how often the car needed servicing so if the service history shows this remember that it wasn't what was recommended by Renault Uk warranty rules and if you are looking at a car with warranty that Renault Uk might not look favourably and ask for a percentage contribution if correct servicing had been done on time. Also remember the stamp means nothing really fakes stamps have been used before now and will be in future maybe try contact the dealership ask if they really did service the car.
Check the AUX belt has been changed ever 36k though or else change it its not cheap as its 2.7 hour labour if you have a car with air con or 5 minutes if your lucky and have a normal 172 Cup. The servicing used to allow the belt to stay as with the cam belt to 72k hence why many dealers think its Ok to leave ti that long however there were so many failures that the service rules were changed down to 36k at a maximum. When they do fail they make a right mess they 99.9% of the time take out the cam belt so your looking at £1k at best to fix it since it will have wrecked valves new cam belt is needed etc.
Price
Best check against other prices on auto trader (remember this is only what people are asking not getting so maybe try ring them see how well there selling but remember not everyone will be totally honest) and Parkers etc
Extra things to check
Two keys are present and both work (at £120 or so minimum for a replacement its worth checking)
Check the locking wheel nut keys (there should be two) are present and correct and ideally check they work.
In the case of 182's and 172 Cups that the bottles of tyre foam inflator are present (only cheap but worth a few quid discount)
Import 172 don't have (as stanard) locking wheel nuts (one per wheel), Window etching, alarm fitted as standard/embbed into the reciever.
Edited by 172ff on Friday 30th January 22:20
Hollywood Wheels said:
You call a £5.5K car a 'cheap runaround'? 
If it didn't come across in my post, the car has been taken in part ex ( I work in a dealer ) and with that I get 0% finance through the firm.So I shall buy the car, use it till summer and then sell on for market value, and if my sums are about right I should break even, as similar cars are selling for £6.5k ~
So technically it isn't costing me 5.5k as I will pay the £85 pcm and then sell on..
Heya mate, I had my 36k service done not too long ago and it cost me £350. This was from a RenaultSport specialist near Cambridge called www.greydevilindustries.com It involves changing the auxillery belt so its more expensive predominantly because of the extra labour involved. At least thats what I gathered from when I was watching him do it as everything else done was similar to the 24k service I had done there.
If you need anymore information let me know.
182 Cups are a bit of a marketing piss take. They never really had any difference to the standard car performance wise. A real cup would be a 172. Don't get me started about the shambolic 197 cup.
If you need anymore information let me know.
182 Cups are a bit of a marketing piss take. They never really had any difference to the standard car performance wise. A real cup would be a 172. Don't get me started about the shambolic 197 cup.
Thanks.
Its very unlikely that the car would have had this done before 36k isn't it?
Just thinking, because this could turn my good price car into something which is close to market value (not the idea with buying a p/x via work)...
Yeh, I mean it looks to have all the toys, spoilers etc, and then the different wheels and suspension (sits a bit lower) I value that more than weight saving etc, as most of my driving is slow stuff.
Its very unlikely that the car would have had this done before 36k isn't it?
Just thinking, because this could turn my good price car into something which is close to market value (not the idea with buying a p/x via work)...
Yeh, I mean it looks to have all the toys, spoilers etc, and then the different wheels and suspension (sits a bit lower) I value that more than weight saving etc, as most of my driving is slow stuff.
Edited by okgo on Sunday 1st February 01:02
Yeh I'd say so. It is definately necessary to get that done if you go over 36k though. I remember seeing another place doing it around a 100 quid cheaper. www.ktecracing.co.uk I think is there site. They are called K-Tec anyway.
I'm still very very happy with mine, after over three years. I've got quite a few entries on the summary of it in my profile if you're interested.
I'm still very very happy with mine, after over three years. I've got quite a few entries on the summary of it in my profile if you're interested.
Cool, I will have a look, love your seats, git.
I have a friend that is a pug specialist and he did all my GTI pugs, I may tap him up see what he says.
Do you think they are still quite easy cars to sell on? Seem popular, this one has everything you could want on it, bar the recaros I guess too..
I have a friend that is a pug specialist and he did all my GTI pugs, I may tap him up see what he says.
Do you think they are still quite easy cars to sell on? Seem popular, this one has everything you could want on it, bar the recaros I guess too..
I haven't thought about selling mine, but they are fantastic cars and no-ones really said a bad word about them.
I'd say it would be pretty easy to sell on.
Just don't get involved with cliosport.net. I've been on there for a while and the members seemed to constantly question the prices of cars as if there priced too high. It got to a stage whereby the moderators had to dis-allow comments on cars for sale as they were being devalued too much.
Theres a few muppets on there who decided to lock most of the forum down, and make you pay a tenner for the privilege of viewing it, as someone mentioned above. The locked sections include all the important sections about buying guides and what not, and car parts for sale. I was just glad I managed to find my exhaust on there before the place got locked down. I tried to tell them that they were severly restricting their market base on car parts, but they didn't seem to listen.
I'd say it would be pretty easy to sell on.
Just don't get involved with cliosport.net. I've been on there for a while and the members seemed to constantly question the prices of cars as if there priced too high. It got to a stage whereby the moderators had to dis-allow comments on cars for sale as they were being devalued too much.
Theres a few muppets on there who decided to lock most of the forum down, and make you pay a tenner for the privilege of viewing it, as someone mentioned above. The locked sections include all the important sections about buying guides and what not, and car parts for sale. I was just glad I managed to find my exhaust on there before the place got locked down. I tried to tell them that they were severly restricting their market base on car parts, but they didn't seem to listen.
Hollywood Wheels said:
You call a £5.5K car a 'cheap runaround'?
Well remember if your used to comp cars your allowence for the contract hire will be roughly min £6k Gross + the tax you will pay in BIK. All you get is a brand new car fully insured and maintained & maybe a fuel card depending on grade & your total milage.So if you opt out suddenly you have £6k+ gross p.a. and if he went for this 4 year old car in 2 years just from option out he'd own it outright.
You also have rules about max age of car you can run if you opt out - my last one was 8 years, but some are as young as max age 3 years... hence why he is choosing a 4-5year old car so he can run it for a handful of years before he has to change again.
Well actually the way it works where I am is different..
I work for a dealership, so there is no company car scheme, all I pay is tax on the car and tax on the fuel card. So I think my tax all in all for my current car is about £200 per month including the fuel.
So it will cost more to go with the other car probably, but it will be mine, its less than market value, the finance I can take is 0%, just have to pay set-ups, and I get a raise in feb which more than covers the cost of insurance and such anyway, still leaving me with more than enough to live by. And if I get bored, I hope I can sell it without making a loss, maybe even a small profit depending on how long I keep it.
I work for a dealership, so there is no company car scheme, all I pay is tax on the car and tax on the fuel card. So I think my tax all in all for my current car is about £200 per month including the fuel.
So it will cost more to go with the other car probably, but it will be mine, its less than market value, the finance I can take is 0%, just have to pay set-ups, and I get a raise in feb which more than covers the cost of insurance and such anyway, still leaving me with more than enough to live by. And if I get bored, I hope I can sell it without making a loss, maybe even a small profit depending on how long I keep it.
Edited by okgo on Sunday 1st February 01:42
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