Ball Joint Splitter - Which one?

Ball Joint Splitter - Which one?

Author
Discussion

scz4

Original Poster:

2,507 posts

242 months

Monday 23rd February 2009
quotequote all
I am replacing the wishbones on my M3 Evo this week whilst fitting coilover and I am thinking ahead and going to get a ball joint splitter to help separate it from the subframe as I hear this can be a real pain.

Which tool do I need?

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/...

Edited by scz4 on Monday 23 February 11:51

Vee

3,100 posts

235 months

Monday 23rd February 2009
quotequote all
On my E46 330 I used the fork with a normal hammer because I'm a tight git. worked eventually but required lots of bashing.
With hindsight, a longer fork would have allowed better leverage . . . a sledghammer would have helped too.
Not sure how the other item works.

Zead

377 posts

208 months

Monday 23rd February 2009
quotequote all
no 2 scissor for leg, although Halfrauds looks weedy. I use a Sykes-Pickavant one and works well. The wedge is ok for subframe but be very careful as it will split the rubber dust seal. Try lots of WD40 around joints a day before doing it. Take care with abs sensors as well, remove and keep well out of the way

Z

handpaper

1,301 posts

204 months

Monday 23rd February 2009
quotequote all
If you want to be able to re-use the balljoint, get a scissor-style splitter as it won't damage the rubber boots.
If you're replacing the balljoint in question or indeed the complete wishbone, a fork type splitter will suffice.
It's possible to shift them without using a splitter at all, but you need a very big hammer and a distinct lack of mechanical sympathy biggrin

TheEnd

15,370 posts

189 months

Monday 23rd February 2009
quotequote all
You'd need the fork really, as the inner balljoint is attached through the subframe.
Alternatively, if the wishbone are being dumped, keep hammering it around the ball and they drop, or whack down on the bolt from above (this will kill the old thread though)

At a push, i've often done it by leaving a nut on the thread screwed up to level with the top which takes the strain, and will recut damaged threads, but it often doesn't go as far as that.