Engine Holding Back

[mpm1987]

The initial message was deleted from this topic on 30 March 2009 at 09:52

[brum]

Are you comparing like for like here.
There are a lot of different power variant for that engine - from 90bhp to 170bhp (i think) and differing torque figures.

You have probably just got a slower car - the pace of the lower end engines is glacial.

ETA - Your mums isn't even run in yet - it's going to get quicker. You have a slow car. HTH.

Edited by brum on Tuesday 10th March 11:55

[mpm1987]

Cars are like for Like,

Both 2.0TDI 140 Versions, 04 plate, and 07 plate.

[brum]

Your mum has remapped hers on the sly.
Instigate an engine swap in the dead of night - that'll show her.
Otherwise get it dyno'd and see what it's actually producing against what it should be

[james S]

Get it down a good specialist and let them have a look. They will know if 5 mins if its way off, which it sounds like it is

[VAG1]

brum said:

Are you comparing like for like here.
There are a lot of different power variant for that engine - from 90bhp to 170bhp (i think) and differing torque figures.

You have probably just got a slower car - the pace of the lower end engines is glacial.

ETA - Your mums isn't even run in yet - it's going to get quicker. You have a slow car. HTH.

Edited by brum on Tuesday 10th March 11:55

hi, when do engines get run in? and what advanatages doees a 'run in' engine have?

[istoo]

quite a few possibilities...
but no vag com codes coming up isnt the end of it.

possibly a boost leak?
take the covers of an squeeze all the boost hoses see if there are any splits there. I found one on my 1.8T a few years ago cleaning the engine bay a huge cracked hose running to the turbo! can you hear it making more noise as you rev? some burst hoses may look totally ok with no pressure on them.

i am sure there are a few here who can advise i don't know this engine at all well. but like for like engines will vary but not by huge amounts, i have had 2x 2.8 audi lumps both same engine codes in same chassis, both drove very different.

[nicktowe]

mpm1987 said:

haha, Definately hasnt had hers mapped, she brought it brand new from a dealer, shes 49, and power doesnt interest her.

Tempted just to get mine mapped, and see what sorta gains I would be looking at.

No point in getting it mapped until you knoe the engine is in good condition

[brum]

VAG1 said:

brum said:

Are you comparing like for like here.
There are a lot of different power variant for that engine - from 90bhp to 170bhp (i think) and differing torque figures.

You have probably just got a slower car - the pace of the lower end engines is glacial.

ETA - Your mums isn't even run in yet - it's going to get quicker. You have a slow car. HTH.

Edited by brum on Tuesday 10th March 11:55

hi, when do engines get run in? and what advanatages doees a 'run in' engine have?

There are no hard and fast rules but every new car I have ever has gotten better as it got leggier.
My Golf 1.8T was rubbish until it had 10k on the clock then it loosened up nicely and was much more responsive and quicker.
My audi TDI was quicker and saw much better MPG once it had 20K on it.

[mpm1987]

I've been told to disconnect the battery for 45 mins, and then re-connect, as apparantly this resets the ECU paramaters (SP), and it may work better with the new Maf I have fitted.

Is this worth doing, or is it just crap?

[aka_kerrly]

having the ECU flashed for any fault codes is always a good start. Then run the car for a few weeks with your new MAF and have the codes re read again and see if anything is coming up. Yes disconnecting the battery for a while can erase fault codes fr a bit but its best to use a proper VAgCom as you will get a better understanding of what is going on in the ECU.

As stated there is no point getting it remapped if it isnt running right as standard.

is it particularly smokey? My old diesel was getting very slow an the boost seemed non existant and it was the exhaust gas recirculation (egr) valve, inlet manifold and turbo actuator that were all gunked up and needed cleaning - simple fix , just covered the parts in brake cleaner an it made a huge difference.

[Tame Technician]

2.0TDI's have issue with fuel pressure, causes loss of performance at high rpm, but with that you usually get a misfire or a least some sort of judder or roughness from the engine. If its dead smooth and just flat at high rpm usually Air Mass, but it never logs a code for that.

TO know if its fuel pressure or not, you have to clamp the return line at the filter, (follow it allow under the plastic cover its the one with the fuel temp sensor inline. Clamping this pipe will artificially raise the fuel pressure. Drive the car If the car then goes like stink, you had low fuel pressure, either tandem pump or injector seals have failed, if it goes the same with the return clamped then fuel pressure is fine, more likely electrical fault, air mass or boost related.

Dont leave the clamp on however temping, will eventually cause the hoses to blow off the filter, diesel ever where, lots of unhappy bikers.

[Tame Technician]

one more thing, I know you said they are both 140's but How do you know. Have you checked the data sticker in the boot should read 103kW its is a 140bhp car. Do the same on your mums, if hers say 125kW then we know whats up.

Soz if this sounds like I'm takin the p**s (i'm not) but you have no idea how often these things are overlooked.

[mpm1987]

There have been a few people that have mentioned it could be the MAF, although this has been changed, and now looking to the EGR to see if this is the problem, however im not very technically minded, so will take a while longer than most I imagine?

[Tame Technician]

I'd be very supprised if its EGR. EGR can only cause loss of power if you are getting to much EGR, cause by a sticking valve not closing or something. When this happens it quite obvious as the world in your mirror goes black and sootie.

I would say if its had the MAF and its smooth not juddering when the engine is flat could be boost pressure sensor. You need to get someone to roadtest the car with 5052 or VagCom connected and monitor the boost pressure as you drive on full throttle to check this.

But it takes 10 seconds to put a pair of mole-grips on that fuel return pipe and see if it makes a difference.

Did you check it is a 103kW engine??

[Tame Technician]

Lift up the plastic engine beautification cover. Look for the fuel temperature sensor, (its on the right hand side) that sensor is in the return line. Clamp that one. First red mark shows fuel temp sensor, second red mark shows nice place to put clamp.

Edited by Tame Technician on Monday 23 March 18:28

[odyssey2200]

Change Fuel Filter!!

[Tame Technician]

Might help, would have to be really badly block to effect performance though, BUT while you in there is the fuel properly dark black (engine oil contamination) instead of clearish, you definatly have problems with the injector seals if its black.

[odyssey2200]

Tame Technician said:

Might help, would have to be really badly block to effect performance though, BUT while you in there is the fuel properly dark black (engine oil contamination) instead of clearish, you definatly have problems with the injector seals if its black.

You will not get engine oil in the fuel but you will get fuel in the oil due to the difference in pressures.

Also

Worth checking the air filter for blockage or nesting rodents.;)

I once got called to a dealer to assist with the diagnosis of a car with similar problems.
Emptied a mouse nest and a carrier bag full of dog buscuits fron the air filter.

Edited by odyssey2200 on Monday 23 March 19:26

[Tame Technician]

Agree about the airfilter, I had an air filter stuffed full of peanuts once, a busy little mouse had been putting them away it seems. But you do get oil in the fuel on PD engines, Seen it loads of times, even gets into the tank.