Vacuum delay valve

Vacuum delay valve

Author
Discussion

walkie

Original Poster:

27 posts

194 months

Tuesday 14th April 2009
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Hi, my car had this fitted when I bought her and can't decide is it really necessary on a tiv? It keeps my idle revs on 1100-1200 rpm for a couple of secs when stopping as it slowly releases the vacuum.

Here's an ebay link to the valve: this one...]

Tell me I don't need it biggrin

blitzracing

6,392 posts

221 months

Tuesday 14th April 2009
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Dont think you do, I think these where for use with carbs. Never seen one my self.

walkie

Original Poster:

27 posts

194 months

Tuesday 14th April 2009
quotequote all
Thanks, now I need a longer vacuum pipe, this bleep is just sitting in the middle... smile
How I love the full TVR service history the car came with... I had to change a camshaft with followers, rockers and shafts, timing gear and chain, distributor, leads, plugs (they put some denso in), fuel pipes, clutch, headlights. All these on a 62k car with sh up to 60k...
At least its quite sorted now and what a blast to drive biggrin

daz the plumber

14,997 posts

232 months

walkie

Original Poster:

27 posts

194 months

Tuesday 14th April 2009
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Thanks Daz, bought one.

Seasider

12,728 posts

250 months

Tuesday 14th April 2009
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walkie said:
How I love the full TVR service history the car came with... I had to change a camshaft with followers, rockers and shafts, timing gear and chain, distributor, leads, plugs (they put some denso in), fuel pipes, clutch, headlights. All these on a 62k car with sh up to 60k...
At least its quite sorted now and what a blast to drive biggrin
Not saying you but.... Some people say home servicing/looked after properly devalues a Griff wink


Hope its all sorted now biggrin



walkie

Original Poster:

27 posts

194 months

Tuesday 14th April 2009
quotequote all
Oh yeah, took all winter to sort them all out, but since then the car hasn't skipped a beat and I started to think these tivs are reliable biggrin
It's a bit overkill to use a 500 for daily commute, but the jag xjr can sit in the garage until next winter...
Oh, forgot to say, one of the precats was broken and blocked the exhaust so I've removed them both, nice deeper exhaust note is the reward. Also fitted a hot start kit therefore I dont need to pretend I'm checking the fluids after filling her up with gas biggrin

GreenV8S

30,214 posts

285 months

Tuesday 14th April 2009
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The vacuum delay valve won't hold the revs up, unless there's something very funny going on.

What it should do is allow the vacuum advance release quickly, but make it slow to engage. This was to cope with the ported vacuum that the EFI throttle body provides. (As far as I can tell, this was originally intended to work with a particular ignition setup to provide massively retarded ignition at idle (to improve emissions) and since the associated dizzy is no longer used the whole ported vacuum thing is utterly pointless and these systems really should have manifold vacuum. But since they do use ported vacuum, they need the delay valve to prevent transient glitches open the throttle quickly from idle.

Having said all that, the valve itself is routinely fitted back to front by people who misunderstand it, and can block or fail open or closed, messing up the vacuum advance. So if in doubt you're best to remove the valve and replace it with a straight tube connecting the two hoses together.

darkcat

2,344 posts

171 months

Thursday 6th May 2010
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Im just about to fit a new vacuum advanve unit, and have bought one of these things too, though it appears to be a non-return valve, im having trouble figuring out how its supposed to work as there is no flow at all in one direction....

anyone using one??

lotusandy

256 posts

272 months

Thursday 6th May 2010
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Useful info from GreenV8S here.

"The vac advance is connected to a throttle edge tapping. This means that when the throttle is closed there's no vacuum and hence no vacuum advance. Cruising with the throttle open a crack there's lots of vacuum and lots of advance. Full throttle there's no vacuum and no advance.

The problem with this setup is that as you slam the throttle open it goes through a brief period when there is full vacuum applied, and this causes the timing to jump as you go from no advance to full advance to no advance in a fraction of a second.

The point of the slow return valve is to prevent the vacuum from reaching the dizzy unless it is sustained for a second or so. So you don't get any advance whejn you slam the throttle open, but you do under cruise conditions.

The problem is that the valve can easily become blocked making the vac advance stay on or off at the wrong time, and it's frequently misunderstood and connected the wrong way round. These problems are far worse than the minor problem the valve was intended to fix and if in doubt I suggest you get rid and just connect a pipe straight from the throttle body to the dizzy."

I just binned mine in the end.
Andy