poorpeet's a New Owner
Discussion
This??
Well done. We're waiting to pick our first TVR up from Peninsula. I keep saying that having waited for something like 10 years to own a TVR, 2 more weeks won't hurt, but they're turning into the longest 2 weeks ever....
We're getting Peninsula to wayoyl the chassis before we collect it. I don't know how/if you can get to the "top" of the tubes by the floorpan I'm afraid.....
>> Edited by kdd on Monday 1st December 10:54
poorpeet said:
Hi Every one. I'm a happy chappy today. Just bought my first TVR: a 93 Chimaera 4 litre. Can't wait for it to be delivered!!!
One thing though. The chassis is solid but has a lot of flaking paint on it which I suppose is the original powder coat. I'm going to wire brush it all off & treat it. Whats the best stuff to use & is there a way of getting to the tops of the tubes where they are next to the floor pan.
Well done. We're waiting to pick our first TVR up from Peninsula. I keep saying that having waited for something like 10 years to own a TVR, 2 more weeks won't hurt, but they're turning into the longest 2 weeks ever....
We're getting Peninsula to wayoyl the chassis before we collect it. I don't know how/if you can get to the "top" of the tubes by the floorpan I'm afraid.....
>> Edited by kdd on Monday 1st December 10:54
poorpeet, welcome to the fold... 
I really do hope the Chassis is solid.. if it has never been treated with anything in 10 years (as evidenced by the original coating flaking off) I trust you gave it a really hard look (and poke around), and didn't buy with your heart...
You've got a fair few evenings work on your hands with a flakey chassis, and there are a few different options/opinions around on what to do (have a search in the history). Effectively though, clean off ALL of the flaking coating, then de-grease and paint with Hammerite or similar, then once thats done, apply a mist of Waxoyl over the top.
All good fun
Cheers
Matt.
>> Edited by M@H on Monday 1st December 11:37
I really do hope the Chassis is solid.. if it has never been treated with anything in 10 years (as evidenced by the original coating flaking off) I trust you gave it a really hard look (and poke around), and didn't buy with your heart...
You've got a fair few evenings work on your hands with a flakey chassis, and there are a few different options/opinions around on what to do (have a search in the history). Effectively though, clean off ALL of the flaking coating, then de-grease and paint with Hammerite or similar, then once thats done, apply a mist of Waxoyl over the top.
All good fun
Cheers
Matt.
>> Edited by M@H on Monday 1st December 11:37
Welcome to the fold, nice one 
. OH 
This will be the longest wait ever!
Still the wait could be worse, the sun could be shining on a glorious hot day, with clear long roads ahead.
BUT it's not, it's p!ssing down and the roads are treacherous.
But whatever the weather, you'll need the Grin, so start practicing Now!
. OH This will be the longest wait ever!
Still the wait could be worse, the sun could be shining on a glorious hot day, with clear long roads ahead.
BUT it's not, it's p!ssing down and the roads are treacherous.
But whatever the weather, you'll need the Grin, so start practicing Now!
If you've got access to a pressure washer with an angled lance, you can blast water up between the tub and chassis, and right over the top of the chassis tubes under the sills and watch it wash all the cr@p out the other side. Just make sure you let the tubes dry thoroughly before applying copious amounts of whatever you coat it with.
Congratulations PP. Does this one have an astronomical milage? The best chassis protection is the epoxy stuff. It lasts longer than hammerite and you don't get the pin holes; easier to apply too. Available from www.rust.co.uk Good luck.
Cheers for the good wishes. Yes, the hands on the clock do seem to be going backwards suddenly! Still shouldn't wish your life away as my dad used to say.
Matt, I was going to contact you but I found one I liked before I had the chance.
I'll try the angled lance thing. do I need to keep high pressure water away from anything such as drain holes or prop u/j's?
It's done 85K but 40k of that was in the last 18 mths running up & down from Lancs. I tried to find the owner thru Piston heads members but no luck.
Just been mot'd (late Oct) 4 new tyres new steering rack & a fully stamped history with the last service/mot a couple of hundred miles ago.
Just you wait though I bet the sun does'nt shine on the south east at all next year!
Matt, I was going to contact you but I found one I liked before I had the chance.
I'll try the angled lance thing. do I need to keep high pressure water away from anything such as drain holes or prop u/j's?
It's done 85K but 40k of that was in the last 18 mths running up & down from Lancs. I tried to find the owner thru Piston heads members but no luck.
Just been mot'd (late Oct) 4 new tyres new steering rack & a fully stamped history with the last service/mot a couple of hundred miles ago.
Just you wait though I bet the sun does'nt shine on the south east at all next year!
poorpeet said:
I'll try the angled lance thing. do I need to keep high pressure water away from anything such as drain holes or prop u/j's?
Yes - and anything electrical ie be very careful around the underside of the engine & fuel pump. Delicate things like radiator, brake/shock seals should be avoided too. Pressure can be very high at close range. Not sure if the gearbox and diff have breathers, but if they do you don't want to get water in those either.
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