Replacement of Heater matrix

Replacement of Heater matrix

Author
Discussion

anthonyjg

Original Poster:

16 posts

243 months

Thursday 15th January 2004
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The car is 2.8 Tasmin, 'Y' reg., with the 'horizontal' instrument panel. After having had all the water hoses replaced with silicone I suspect that there is a slow leak in the heater matrix. Symptoms are constant misting up, despite the blower being on full and hot, and condensation on the inside of the screen when I come back to the car after a few minutes.

Steve Heath is not very specific about removing the dashboard, but it seems that you have first to remove the padded trim, then undo many tiny nuts holding the veneer in place, followed by the instrument panel itself. After that you should be able to get at the heater matrix box and undertake surgery on it.

Hhs anybody actually done this and, if so, please can you help with any tips? Many thanks.

350zwelgje

1,820 posts

261 months

Thursday 15th January 2004
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Perhaps it is just an airlock in the matrix, with the same "results".
Don't know about accessing the heater matrix, sorry.


Rob

uriel

3,244 posts

251 months

Thursday 15th January 2004
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I'm thinking of doing the same thing as I'm having the same symptoms as you. Have been a bit daunted by the job so have been putting it off. I figure it's way too cold and wet at the moment to be out in the street messing round with coolant and stuff as I just know that I'm going to get water everywhere. Also a lot of electrical stuff back there to worry about.

Keep us posted with your progress, I'd like to see how it turns out

taz turbo

655 posts

250 months

Friday 16th January 2004
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Sorry to hear you need to remove the heater matrix ( you will see why I'm sorry when you carry out the job)
#1 Remove the centre binnacle cover that houses the radio, this is held on by two M6 nuts one on each vertical face of the cover.
#2 Remove the two bolts that hold the steering column in place, M12 from memory, and drop the steering column so that it rests in the footwell.
#3 Behind the dash board, about 3 inches from each end there is a M6 nut, to give you a better idea on the passenger side it's above the glovebox, loosen these nuts by a couple of turns, then the dash board 'should' be able to be removed from its location, as for the wiring if your 'only' changing the matrix you should be able to leave the wiring in place, as its all fed from one end of the dash and there is enough free length to pivot the dash out in an arc.
This will then leave the heater box exposed for any work you wish/need to carry out, I would recommend you give the wiper wheel box a thorough check over as its only accessible with the heater box removed, use the opportunity!!!

Should you have any difficulties mail me.

Chris.

anthonyjg

Original Poster:

16 posts

243 months

Friday 16th January 2004
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Thanks for your replies. After having read them I am inclined to leave it for a few weeks, until the weather warms up a bit before tackling it. Also I will try and get a spare heater matrix lined up ready to go in, as I suspect that reconditioning the old one will not be an "off the shelf" job! I don't think it is just an airlock (wish it was), as the air coming out of the windscreen vents is warm and steamy, not cold and steamy. I will post the results, as and when done.

jchase

572 posts

259 months

Friday 16th January 2004
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Droping the steering wheel like that will almost surely ruin the bulkhead bearing, mst better to undo the upper steering UJ, and remove the wheel and column as a whole unit.
-Jim

mark.tideswell

19 posts

284 months

Sunday 18th January 2004
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When i had my 280 wedge back in 94/95 i had to replace the heater matrix because of the same reason ,anyway cant really remember to much about dashboard but i didnt take it out ,just loosened it enough to slide forward so i could get the heater box out it wasnt to bad,BUT once uv got it out you will find that the matrix is sandwhiched inbetween the 2 halves of the heater box and they are bonded together!!.What i did was use an air operated circular vibrateing hacksaw which did a neat job of spliting the box u may be able to use an ordinary hacksaw,when i come to put it back together i used sikaflux sealer used for bonding in windscreens u can use other types of adesive or even glass it back together.Incidently if i remember correctly i had mine repared but i am almost sure i was told it was out of a Bedford CF van!!hope this is of some help