996 Turbo Front Bumper Removal - DIY w/pics
Discussion
In response to the frequently asked question as to the removal of the front bumper from the 996 turbo, a very quick and simple job, which gives access to condensers, radiators or just a good clean out, I thought I’d post the following as a guide. Hope this helps guys and gals and maybe save y’all a few quid.
Porsche 996 turbo Front Bumper Removal
Tools you will need:
Flat Screwdriver
Philips PH2 Screwdriver
Torx TX25 Bit
Torx TX30 Bit
Raise bonnet and using a suitable flat screwdriver remove the 4 plastic fasteners that hold the front trim piece in place by rotating them through 90 degrees and lifting them out of their recesses.
Lift the piece of plastic trim, it helps to pull off the front section of the rubber seal, manoeuvre it over the bonnet release lever and remove. Remove the 2 philips (PH2) screws, one at each side near the headlights making sure that you also remove the screw collars as these locate into the front bumper.
Next (not strictly necessary but it makes it much easier to see what’s going on) take out the front section of the wheel arch liner on both sides. It is not necessary to remove the wheel to do this as the liner can be taken out by turning the steering to full lock, however, if you are jacking the car up anyway it makes access much easier. Remove the 4 Torx (TX25) screws, the plastic rivet from the wheel arch recess (it helps to carefully prize out the centre section completely and then pull out the remaining piece) and the Philips (PH2) screw from the end of the front splitter.
Then from underneath remove the second plastic rivet, the Torx (TX25) and (TX30) screws. (all marked in red). The wheel arch liner can now be manoeuvred out.
While underneath remove the remaining Torx screws securing the front bumper, 3 x TX30 across the front and 2 X TX30 towards the side (marked in yellow).
Gently pop out the side repeaters (with the wheel arch liner removed you can easily see the spring clip that secures it in place) and remove them completely by disconnecting the plug (squeeze metal spring and pull apart).
Remove the Philips (PH2) screw from side repeater recess, then, remove the Philips (PH2) screw that faces vertically upward into the side repeater recess, accessed from under the wheel arch (the tip can be seen marked in yellow).
Next unclip the ambient temp sensor from its position in the front grill.
You are now ready to remove the front bumper. Carefully, with the help of a glamorous assistant slide the bumper forwards clear of the car. It is possible to do this on your own but why take the unnecessary risk of cracking, scratching or dropping something.
To remove the side radiator cowls simply remove the two TX25 screws and pull cowl free of pipework, for offside push the rubber grommet free of its location to allow ambient temp sensor to pass through, freeing the cowl.
Job done!
...Refitting is the reverse of removal!
Btw, I won’t be held responsible by useless gits with fists of ham and fingers of butter nausing up their car as a result of this guide.
Have fun...
Porsche 996 turbo Front Bumper Removal
Tools you will need:
Flat Screwdriver
Philips PH2 Screwdriver
Torx TX25 Bit
Torx TX30 Bit
Raise bonnet and using a suitable flat screwdriver remove the 4 plastic fasteners that hold the front trim piece in place by rotating them through 90 degrees and lifting them out of their recesses.
Lift the piece of plastic trim, it helps to pull off the front section of the rubber seal, manoeuvre it over the bonnet release lever and remove. Remove the 2 philips (PH2) screws, one at each side near the headlights making sure that you also remove the screw collars as these locate into the front bumper.
Next (not strictly necessary but it makes it much easier to see what’s going on) take out the front section of the wheel arch liner on both sides. It is not necessary to remove the wheel to do this as the liner can be taken out by turning the steering to full lock, however, if you are jacking the car up anyway it makes access much easier. Remove the 4 Torx (TX25) screws, the plastic rivet from the wheel arch recess (it helps to carefully prize out the centre section completely and then pull out the remaining piece) and the Philips (PH2) screw from the end of the front splitter.
Then from underneath remove the second plastic rivet, the Torx (TX25) and (TX30) screws. (all marked in red). The wheel arch liner can now be manoeuvred out.
While underneath remove the remaining Torx screws securing the front bumper, 3 x TX30 across the front and 2 X TX30 towards the side (marked in yellow).
Gently pop out the side repeaters (with the wheel arch liner removed you can easily see the spring clip that secures it in place) and remove them completely by disconnecting the plug (squeeze metal spring and pull apart).
Remove the Philips (PH2) screw from side repeater recess, then, remove the Philips (PH2) screw that faces vertically upward into the side repeater recess, accessed from under the wheel arch (the tip can be seen marked in yellow).
Next unclip the ambient temp sensor from its position in the front grill.
You are now ready to remove the front bumper. Carefully, with the help of a glamorous assistant slide the bumper forwards clear of the car. It is possible to do this on your own but why take the unnecessary risk of cracking, scratching or dropping something.
To remove the side radiator cowls simply remove the two TX25 screws and pull cowl free of pipework, for offside push the rubber grommet free of its location to allow ambient temp sensor to pass through, freeing the cowl.
Job done!
...Refitting is the reverse of removal!
Btw, I won’t be held responsible by useless gits with fists of ham and fingers of butter nausing up their car as a result of this guide.
Have fun...
Just as a post script really, swapping air-con condensors is simply a case of disconnecting the pipes by removing the two bolts (1 per pipe) using a 6mm hex bit and removing the condensor from its frame by taking out the two Torx 25 screws. Check condition of o rings in the ends of the pipes and renew if necessary (part no 999 707 250 40), fit new condensor and re-attach pipes.
When it comes to re-gassing system if the spot you take it to is a bit vague the re-gassing points are under the nearside plastic cover just in front of the pollen filter.
When it comes to re-gassing system if the spot you take it to is a bit vague the re-gassing points are under the nearside plastic cover just in front of the pollen filter.
Stealth997 said:
Great write up. Does anyone know how much this differs to the 997?
Yes, major differences:No clips for the cover around the lock (velcro), and the lighs need to come out as there is some kind of metal clip or "slider" which needs to be removed. Temp sensor sits in the bonnet no more (in the ducts now). Also, inner wheelarches do not have a separate cover and there are more bolts to be undone from underneath (all for 997 RS). Also you have a wiring loom on the 97 (can be accessed through the light pod, its the RH side one on LH drive cars)
Best F.
996TT_STEVO said:
Great post Andy... a credit to the forum
Cheers my friend, shame that your suggestion of a DIY section never got off the ground. I'm sure it would generate lots of useful tips, even the basic routine maintenance stuff like oil, filters, discs & pads etc would provide a great resource.
EvoSlayer said:
will2020 said:
Great post thanks,
Any advice on if you get this far how difficult is it to change the drivers side radiator?
I'll let you know mate, that's the reason mine's in bits; new rads & antifreeze, a general front end clean out and a few other Winter overhaul/maintenance jobs.Any advice on if you get this far how difficult is it to change the drivers side radiator?
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