rear crossmember

Author
Discussion

bungalow4x4

Original Poster:

29 posts

172 months

Thursday 13th May 2010
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I need a new rear crossmember for my defender 90. MOT dew in a few months can anyone tell me rough amount of work on fitting a new one and the rough cost involved.


thanks

Lefty 200 Drams

16,163 posts

203 months

Thursday 13th May 2010
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A friend of mine did this recently - £100 for a new x-member and about 10 hours labour.

maffy32

1,013 posts

193 months

Thursday 13th May 2010
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not done 1 on a defender but if its the same as a series then you have to take the rear tub off then its very simple to do just remember measure twice cut once

taldo

1,357 posts

195 months

Thursday 13th May 2010
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i was quoted 100 quid to fit a x member to my ninety, was the 1/4 rear chassis technically. from what i understand its not all that complicated. freind of mine had it done on his series and they didnt remove the rear tub???

Gafferjim

1,335 posts

266 months

Friday 14th May 2010
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I've done mine, you don't need to take the tub off, in fact it's better not doing, then at least to can make sure all the bolt holes line up. Get the one with the extensions, price is around £140, and don't get the Paddock one, the metal is thinner.
You will need to be able to mig weld, or someone who can.
Unbolt everything from the xmember, undo all the wiring. Now measure where the legs of the extensions will come to, note how they're splayed out at the ends, and cut off the ends of the chassis, DON'T cut too much off, you can trim more of easily later if needed. (you may need to support the back of the tub)
cut carefully, not to cut through the wiring (I think you bring it out through a hole if I remember)
ties some electrical wire or something to your wiring, and push it up the inside of the chassis leg, leaving the piece of wire so that you can retrieve it later.
Now dummy fit the crossmember, keep trimming the original chassis until it goes on nicely and the bolts line up in the rear etc, feeding the piece of wire where it needs to go, then weld it all up, being careful not the burn through your piece of wire which you will then pull your wiring loom back into position and reconnect. Paint it up then glow in the good job that you've done, and a Landy dealer will charge you £350 to do.
I've tried to post pictures, but somehow it won't, if you want to email me, I'll send them to you.


Edited by Gafferjim on Friday 14th May 23:45


Edited by Gafferjim on Friday 14th May 23:47


Edited by Gafferjim on Friday 14th May 23:48

maffy32

1,013 posts

193 months

Sunday 16th May 2010
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if your saying leave the tub on how do you weld across the top section then

Gafferjim

1,335 posts

266 months

Monday 17th May 2010
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It's very awkward, but can be done. the problem with taking the tub off, is that you've no idea if the rear bolt holes are anywhere near in the correct place, ideally, I suppose if you're having problems getting to the top weld, would be to weld most of the rest of it up with the rear bolts in place, then remove the tub to finish off the top welds.

bungalow4x4

Original Poster:

29 posts

172 months

Monday 14th June 2010
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hey all thanks for your help and thank you for the step by step plan Gafferjim its very helpfull

brendar7639

4 posts

167 months

Thursday 17th June 2010
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Hello !
I am also a new member. Would a newcomer be warmly welcome here? Good day you guy !




Mod note: Bye bye Mr Spamwavey

Edited by Bill on Thursday 17th June 10:36