Flip front suppiler.
Discussion
hiya im looking for flip front.
my requirement is:-
No cutting required (headlamp, etc) just bolt things on. as im terrible with cutting heh heh :S
preferably in one piece flip front, doesnt mind 2 piece though.
Any material as long they r good quality.
ethier Round nose or clubman
Know any suppiler that meet my requirement or anyone got one for sale ?
Jay
my requirement is:-
No cutting required (headlamp, etc) just bolt things on. as im terrible with cutting heh heh :S
preferably in one piece flip front, doesnt mind 2 piece though.
Any material as long they r good quality.
ethier Round nose or clubman
Know any suppiler that meet my requirement or anyone got one for sale ?
Jay
Be very, very careful with flip fronts.
The basic Mini is a monocoque construction which means that all panels in the bodyshell are load carrying.
If you fit a flip front you absolutely MUST weld in additional reinforcing to carry the loads which the flip front will no longer do.
For myself, I would never have a flip front. I really can't see the advantage. It adds weight just where you don't want it - at the already heavy front - from the extra strengthening. If it doesn't add weight then you will not have replaced the structural integrity properly.
There are better ways of improving access to the engine bay such as:
A quick release bonnet,
Re-routeing the electrics across the front panel and making the top section of the front panel removeable by means of a steel jointing section nested into each end, then welded in on the outer ends with the old now-removeable centre section bolted to it with at least 3 bolts each end (1/4" unf minimum size). The nested doubler section should be made up from 14swg steel and be at least 6" long in total, with 3" welded into the stub of the front panel top member. Email me if this is not clear!
Cut away the inner front wings locally to obtain access to the rad mountings, the brake parts and the engine mountings. Make sure you flange the edges of the cut-away bits to add panel stiffness.
That will improve the access without detriment to crash-resistance or structural integrity.
I hope this helps.
The basic Mini is a monocoque construction which means that all panels in the bodyshell are load carrying.
If you fit a flip front you absolutely MUST weld in additional reinforcing to carry the loads which the flip front will no longer do.
For myself, I would never have a flip front. I really can't see the advantage. It adds weight just where you don't want it - at the already heavy front - from the extra strengthening. If it doesn't add weight then you will not have replaced the structural integrity properly.
There are better ways of improving access to the engine bay such as:
A quick release bonnet,
Re-routeing the electrics across the front panel and making the top section of the front panel removeable by means of a steel jointing section nested into each end, then welded in on the outer ends with the old now-removeable centre section bolted to it with at least 3 bolts each end (1/4" unf minimum size). The nested doubler section should be made up from 14swg steel and be at least 6" long in total, with 3" welded into the stub of the front panel top member. Email me if this is not clear!
Cut away the inner front wings locally to obtain access to the rad mountings, the brake parts and the engine mountings. Make sure you flange the edges of the cut-away bits to add panel stiffness.
That will improve the access without detriment to crash-resistance or structural integrity.
I hope this helps.
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