Cooling Fan Otter Switch
Discussion
I have a 350i with a 4.6 upgrade; the fan otter switch does not trigger until just over the mark above 90 degrees (which I assume must be 100 plus); this seems a bit on the high side, although it still copes fine even in very hot weather.
I have heard that the switch is from a Maestro - can anyone confirm this, and also whether they are still available (assuming that they normally trigger below this).
Gauge seems to read about right.
Not a major problem, as I have manual override, but would prefer correct automation.
I have heard that the switch is from a Maestro - can anyone confirm this, and also whether they are still available (assuming that they normally trigger below this).
Gauge seems to read about right.
Not a major problem, as I have manual override, but would prefer correct automation.
It is from a Maestro.
My old one started coming on a bit early, so I fitted a new one and yes it doesn't seem to cut in until 90 degrees now either, before it was just over 80.
My 350 is not behaving itself in the cooling departmet ever since one of the fans died. It was just a sticky brush but it seems to run hot now. The temp gradually seems to rise when stuck in traffic although it never boils (so far). I fitted a 3 row rad a couple of years back and it used to be very good in traffic/hot weather.
I am planning to pressure test it this weekend even though I am not loosing water, and maybe put the old switch back in which cuts in earlier.
Maybe I have an air lock.... very frustrating
My old one started coming on a bit early, so I fitted a new one and yes it doesn't seem to cut in until 90 degrees now either, before it was just over 80.
My 350 is not behaving itself in the cooling departmet ever since one of the fans died. It was just a sticky brush but it seems to run hot now. The temp gradually seems to rise when stuck in traffic although it never boils (so far). I fitted a 3 row rad a couple of years back and it used to be very good in traffic/hot weather.
I am planning to pressure test it this weekend even though I am not loosing water, and maybe put the old switch back in which cuts in earlier.
Maybe I have an air lock.... very frustrating
As an alternative, when I had my new rad built I got rid of the otter switch entirely and fitted an adjustable switch in the top hose. Easy access, was dead easy to fit and works a treat. I'm sure it would be easy enough to blank the hole (just braize the old switch in?) if you wanted to go down that route. Cost about £40 from Merlin Motorsport at Castle Coombe if I remember.
I have no idea on the switch problem as my S2 350i is currently being worked on by Peninsular
This well may be the route i take. Would be good to see at the BBWF!! I see no one has mentioned it here .. but to get at the otter switch almost requires the radiator to be removed and it is an ar@se of a job.
If I were you - I would make a new otter switch
in the top metal pipe (described earlier) and
just remove the two wires from the existing otter
switch (lenghten etc) and just leave the old otter
alone until you change the rad at some future date !
If I were you - I would make a new otter switch
in the top metal pipe (described earlier) and
just remove the two wires from the existing otter
switch (lenghten etc) and just leave the old otter
alone until you change the rad at some future date !
rev-erend said:
I see no one has mentioned it here .. but to get at the otter switch almost requires the radiator to be removed and it is an ar@se of a job.
If I were you - I would make a new otter switch
in the top metal pipe (described earlier) and
just remove the two wires from the existing otter
switch (lenghten etc) and just leave the old otter
alone until you change the rad at some future date !
I couldn't agree more. I've still got the scars from when I tried.
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