Discussion
Cannot comment on the mechanical side due to the fact I have the 320 hence, running a different motor. However, mine is a 2000 model and I have owned the vehicle since 3000 miles was achieved and it was two years old.
I've (touch wood) not had any problems with the car and have only changed / replaced wearing parts such as disc pads etc however, they had covered 30,000 before needing replacement.
I have heard stories regarding rear wheel arch rust but have not suffered the proble myself. I've had the car for eight of its ten years and would not change it. I think being kept in a garage helps maintain the condition and I will not let it out to play if there is no blue shy:-)
I've (touch wood) not had any problems with the car and have only changed / replaced wearing parts such as disc pads etc however, they had covered 30,000 before needing replacement.
I have heard stories regarding rear wheel arch rust but have not suffered the proble myself. I've had the car for eight of its ten years and would not change it. I think being kept in a garage helps maintain the condition and I will not let it out to play if there is no blue shy:-)
We've had our 1999 230K for just coming up 2 years now and have put over 30,000 miles on it - you can get an idea of running costs etc. from the car in my profile. Took it down to Italy last year and are off to France next week.
Had no real problems with it all and would really recommend one to someone who wants a two seater that really can be used year-round.
Look out for rusty wheel arches (one of ours is just starting to bubble so will probably get it seen to next year) and rust around the boot lock area. Check the roof several times and that all parts of the mechanism are working properly. The engine has a reputation for being very solid, but the transmission oil should be changed every 60k (I think) or so to keep the gearbox in good order - budget about £150 at a specialist. Check the supercharger works. Other than that, I can't think of much apart from just checking the general condition of the car as you would with any other purchase.
Good luck!
ETA - I would advise strongly getting the 230 rather than the 200 - the difference in performance is quite noticeable. Even then, the 230 isn't amazingly quick, its a cruiser really.
Had no real problems with it all and would really recommend one to someone who wants a two seater that really can be used year-round.
Look out for rusty wheel arches (one of ours is just starting to bubble so will probably get it seen to next year) and rust around the boot lock area. Check the roof several times and that all parts of the mechanism are working properly. The engine has a reputation for being very solid, but the transmission oil should be changed every 60k (I think) or so to keep the gearbox in good order - budget about £150 at a specialist. Check the supercharger works. Other than that, I can't think of much apart from just checking the general condition of the car as you would with any other purchase.
Good luck!
ETA - I would advise strongly getting the 230 rather than the 200 - the difference in performance is quite noticeable. Even then, the 230 isn't amazingly quick, its a cruiser really.
Edited by Highway Star on Monday 9th August 10:22
Highway Star said:
ETA - I would advise strongly getting the 230 rather than the 200 - the difference in performance is quite noticeable. Even then, the 230 isn't amazingly quick, its a cruiser really.
Edited by Highway Star on Monday 9th August 10:22
Rust as others have said can be an issue. I think they sorted it from 2003 onwards, but don't quote me on that. Servicing can be expensive. I've just had the fuel filter on mine (2002 model) changed and the part was £75 on its own
I've also just had a gearbox ATF leak fixed, which is apparently quite a common fault.I've got a few issues with interior trim not standing up well to wear - I'll need to replace the side bolsters on the driver's seat, and the door pulls are looking decidedly second hand. Mine also has lots of rattles and squeaks that I'm gradually getting sorted. Many of these have to do with the folding roof, which squeaks like buggery until you 'lube' it with some incredibly expensive MB silicone fluid.
On balance though, I really like the car, and I'm glad I bought it.
my wifes slk 230k has done 90k since buying 2nd hand in 06/2003 as a MY2001 (Y).
followed full service schedule and has been mechanically very reliable - one rear suspension joint at 90 quid and a locking rear caliper.
problems - needed a new heater blower last year and we had a very slow gearbox oil leak which lead to a suprious engine emissions light warning and then a safety lock out of box. a new seal and oil top up fixed it at a specialist. also bonnet latch jams due to dust and crap coming in through radator grill - needs a regular clean or you have problems shutting bonnet.
driving wise - recirc ball steering is crap (IMHO) as compared to my BMWs. quite comfy as a cruiser as such get an auto boxed one.
followed full service schedule and has been mechanically very reliable - one rear suspension joint at 90 quid and a locking rear caliper.
problems - needed a new heater blower last year and we had a very slow gearbox oil leak which lead to a suprious engine emissions light warning and then a safety lock out of box. a new seal and oil top up fixed it at a specialist. also bonnet latch jams due to dust and crap coming in through radator grill - needs a regular clean or you have problems shutting bonnet.
driving wise - recirc ball steering is crap (IMHO) as compared to my BMWs. quite comfy as a cruiser as such get an auto boxed one.
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