Removing glue from painted section?

[Gareth350]

During one of my builds i'm doing, just noticed that i've got some glue residue on a painted section that must have of come from my finger.

What's the best thing to remove this?

The painted section has been painted about 4 weeks, so nice & set & is acrylic.

Thanks.

Edited by Gareth350 on Tuesday 10th August 13:43

[dr_gn]

Gareth350 said:

During one of my builds i'm doing, just noticed that i've got some glue residue on a painted section that must have of come from my finger.

What's the best thing to remove this?

The painted section has been painted about 4 weeks, so nice & set & is acrylic.

Thanks.

Edited by Gareth350 on Tuesday 10th August 13:43

I think the only thing you can do is carefully wet'n'dry it off with something like #1200 paper (assuming its fully cured). You might then be able to polish the paint back up with T-Cut. Whatever - I'm afraid it's going to take some time and luck to correct. The alternative is to put up with it, whcih may well be the best option...

[Gareth350]

Yep, that was my conclusion too! There is a decal that has to go over it, but it's a semi transparent one, so will hide the majority of it. Thanks again.

Oh, by the way, the Pacer 560 canopy glue worked a treat!

[dr_gn]

Gareth350 said:

Yep, that was my conclusion too! There is a decal that has to go over it, but it's a semi transparent one, so will hide the majority of it. Thanks again.

Oh, by the way, the Pacer 560 canopy glue worked a treat!

In that case if there's a decal over it you could almost certainly get away without the t-cut part of polishing. I now routinely set my decals on Johnsons Klear becasue it totally eliminates silvering on transparent carrier films, and you can still apply micro sol softener on top of the decal to make it conform to the surface detail. The Johnsons Klear will eliminate any matting caused by the wet'n'dry, so it's probably worth a try. Once youve flatted the glue to an acceptable level, don't continue and go through the paint!

[Gareth350]

dr_gn said:

Gareth350 said:

Yep, that was my conclusion too! There is a decal that has to go over it, but it's a semi transparent one, so will hide the majority of it. Thanks again.

Oh, by the way, the Pacer 560 canopy glue worked a treat!

In that case if there's a decal over it you could almost certainly get away without the t-cut part of polishing. I now routinely set my decals on Johnsons Klear becasue it totally eliminates silvering on transparent carrier films, and you can still apply micro sol softener on top of the decal to make it conform to the surface detail. The Johnsons Klear will eliminate any matting caused by the wet'n'dry, so it's probably worth a try. Once youve flatted the glue to an acceptable level, don't continue and go through the paint!

Top quality advice again, as usual! All taken on board!

I have a bit of plastic i painted for practice before doing the model, so i will replicate the glue smudge & see what i can do!

[dr_gn]

Gareth350 said:

dr_gn said:

Gareth350 said:

Yep, that was my conclusion too! There is a decal that has to go over it, but it's a semi transparent one, so will hide the majority of it. Thanks again.

Oh, by the way, the Pacer 560 canopy glue worked a treat!

In that case if there's a decal over it you could almost certainly get away without the t-cut part of polishing. I now routinely set my decals on Johnsons Klear becasue it totally eliminates silvering on transparent carrier films, and you can still apply micro sol softener on top of the decal to make it conform to the surface detail. The Johnsons Klear will eliminate any matting caused by the wet'n'dry, so it's probably worth a try. Once youve flatted the glue to an acceptable level, don't continue and go through the paint!

Top quality advice again, as usual! All taken on board!

I have a bit of plastic i painted for practice before doing the model, so i will replicate the glue smudge & see what i can do!

Good idea. Make sure the glue is fully set though!