Light Pod Woes
Discussion
Right then, just before the MOT the bloomin light pods decide to take no notice of the switch & do what they want. 
When I put the switch on sidelights, the passenger side pod comes up as it should but when I put the switch on the second position it goes back down!. The drivers side pod has gone on strike altogether. The lights themselves behave as they should.
Fuses & relays all seem good. Anything else to check?
Cheers.
When I put the switch on sidelights, the passenger side pod comes up as it should but when I put the switch on the second position it goes back down!. The drivers side pod has gone on strike altogether. The lights themselves behave as they should.
Fuses & relays all seem good. Anything else to check?
Cheers.
hallsie said:
Im sure you can bodge them into the up position for the MOT, then youve got a year to consider doing it, at some point, maybe, if the weathers is right, and its the summer solstice, etc etc etc
Aye, that's the plan for this week. Trouble is...................http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/2137408.htm
Might have to postpone.
Edited by pwd95 on Monday 18th October 21:50
on mine the diode is to the left of the fuses in the bottom corner,easy replacement. my fuses are mounted under the dash with the ECU.you just got to make sure you put it in theright way round, ie look for the line marked on the one that comes out & put new on in the same way or it wont work.
Clive
Clive
Wyn, all sorts of funnies can happen. Did you have the wiring loom connectors apart recently? That caused me issues when the nose was re done.
Supplies go down one side of the car, passenger side. There are one or three connectors between the near and off side so supplies come into on connector and back out to feed the other side and carry on into the motor if you get my drift. But look for the simple first, I would not want to split the connectors unless it has already been done. They will be corroded and disturbing them might make it worse, as mine did.
Fuse layout. Copy away. Diode is where you show it. Maplins used to do diodes, not sure if they still do, gone a bit ready built kit.
Supplies go down one side of the car, passenger side. There are one or three connectors between the near and off side so supplies come into on connector and back out to feed the other side and carry on into the motor if you get my drift. But look for the simple first, I would not want to split the connectors unless it has already been done. They will be corroded and disturbing them might make it worse, as mine did.
Fuse layout. Copy away. Diode is where you show it. Maplins used to do diodes, not sure if they still do, gone a bit ready built kit.
Edited by jmorgan on Wednesday 20th October 12:31
Had a similar problem on mine ... it turned out to be the copper strip contacts in the motor. Remove bonnet - Lift both lights by hand and disconnect battery. take out the headlight units from the pod - disc the electical cables remember which ones go where (digi camera is helpful) - undo the two bolts that secure the pods and the small bolt that holds the control arm - remove pod - Take the motor out of the car and remove the plastic cover where the cable goes into the motor body. Inside you will see a copper strip with connectors on it, clean both ends where it makes contact - Do both sides. Replacement is reverse. I have not had any problems since. Check and clean all connector blocks behind each light and grease and lock wire the pod swivel bolts
Good luck
Chris
Good luck
Chris
Jack Valiant said:
Inside you will see a copper strip with connectors on it, clean both ends where it makes contact -
There is yet another issue that can afflict that copper strip: the centre terminal is rivetted to the strip and if it corrodes you get no continuity to the strip - nigh-on impossible to see, but you can of course detect it with a multimeter.Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff