Discussion
I'm slowly (very slowly) making progress with my 1:12 bike and realising that I'm never going to get a smooth finish on anything by using a brush, so much so that I'm already looking into airbrushes.
The Tamiya paints I've got seem to be a very mixed bag, some provide a very good coverage straight out of the pot with one coat, only needing a slight touch-up afterwards, whereas with others (X-18 semi-gloss black I'm referring to you) I have to build up 4 layers or more before there is an even coverage, and by then you can clearly see the brush strokes. I've seen that thinning it should help, but won't this result in even more layers needing to be laid down?
This brings me onto my next question, do you just drop the thinners straight into the pot until you've got it thin enough to work with?
I was quite pleased with the job I made of priming it over the weekend, as a kid I'd go way overboard and lose any detail in the model, but I did it in loads of very quick passes this time, building it up over time and for a complete beginner I don't think I did too bad a job of it. Hence why I've been considering getting an airbrush, for those of you who do use them, what sort of setup have you got at home? I haven't got a garage or dedicated workspace to do it in, so what will I need, bar the airbrush and compressor to do it safely at home?
The Tamiya paints I've got seem to be a very mixed bag, some provide a very good coverage straight out of the pot with one coat, only needing a slight touch-up afterwards, whereas with others (X-18 semi-gloss black I'm referring to you) I have to build up 4 layers or more before there is an even coverage, and by then you can clearly see the brush strokes. I've seen that thinning it should help, but won't this result in even more layers needing to be laid down?
This brings me onto my next question, do you just drop the thinners straight into the pot until you've got it thin enough to work with?
I was quite pleased with the job I made of priming it over the weekend, as a kid I'd go way overboard and lose any detail in the model, but I did it in loads of very quick passes this time, building it up over time and for a complete beginner I don't think I did too bad a job of it. Hence why I've been considering getting an airbrush, for those of you who do use them, what sort of setup have you got at home? I haven't got a garage or dedicated workspace to do it in, so what will I need, bar the airbrush and compressor to do it safely at home?
Thinning is usually done in a separate container. If using an ordinary brush - something like an old style 35mm film cannister or one of those plastic cups that come with cough medecines would be ideal for using as a thinning receptacle.
If airbrushing, you can use a similar technique although these days I tend to mix the paint and thinner in the paint cup of the airbrush itself - it saves having to clean up another item.
If airbrushing, you can use a similar technique although these days I tend to mix the paint and thinner in the paint cup of the airbrush itself - it saves having to clean up another item.
Eric Mc said:
Thinning is usually done in a separate container. If using an ordinary brush - something like an old style 35mm film cannister or one of those plastic cups that come with cough medecines would be ideal for using as a thinning receptacle.
If airbrushing, you can use a similar technique although these days I tend to mix the paint and thinner in the paint cup of the airbrush itself - it saves having to clean up another item.
That doesn't allow you to strain the paint though. Don't you get problems with clogging?If airbrushing, you can use a similar technique although these days I tend to mix the paint and thinner in the paint cup of the airbrush itself - it saves having to clean up another item.
Yertis said:
Eric Mc said:
Thinning is usually done in a separate container. If using an ordinary brush - something like an old style 35mm film cannister or one of those plastic cups that come with cough medecines would be ideal for using as a thinning receptacle.
If airbrushing, you can use a similar technique although these days I tend to mix the paint and thinner in the paint cup of the airbrush itself - it saves having to clean up another item.
That doesn't allow you to strain the paint though. Don't you get problems with clogging?If airbrushing, you can use a similar technique although these days I tend to mix the paint and thinner in the paint cup of the airbrush itself - it saves having to clean up another item.
I use Tamiya and Xtracrylic acrylic paints - which seem to behave very well.
I use Tamiya paints with a cheap airbrush and have never strained my paint, even my old pots, and it has never clogged with rubbish.
Your airbrush is more likely to clog through the paint drying in the nozzle.
Also make sure you get some decent thinners ideally with a retarder built in (ie. the Tamiya X-20 thinners).
Remember, more thin layers is much better than fewer thick layers.
X-18 looks fantastic when it is airbrushed on by the way. You will want to go back and redo all your models with an airbrush after using one.
Your airbrush is more likely to clog through the paint drying in the nozzle.
Also make sure you get some decent thinners ideally with a retarder built in (ie. the Tamiya X-20 thinners).
Remember, more thin layers is much better than fewer thick layers.
X-18 looks fantastic when it is airbrushed on by the way. You will want to go back and redo all your models with an airbrush after using one.
The_Jackal said:
I use Tamiya paints with a cheap airbrush and have never strained my paint, even my old pots, and it has never clogged with rubbish.
Your airbrush is more likely to clog through the paint drying in the nozzle.
Also make sure you get some decent thinners ideally with a retarder built in (ie. the Tamiya X-20 thinners).
Remember, more thin layers is much better than fewer thick layers.
X-18 looks fantastic when it is airbrushed on by the way. You will want to go back and redo all your models with an airbrush after using one.
I must admit the last time I did this was with a DeVilbiss Sprite, spraying Humbrol Enamel. I used to strain it through bits of stocking.Your airbrush is more likely to clog through the paint drying in the nozzle.
Also make sure you get some decent thinners ideally with a retarder built in (ie. the Tamiya X-20 thinners).
Remember, more thin layers is much better than fewer thick layers.
X-18 looks fantastic when it is airbrushed on by the way. You will want to go back and redo all your models with an airbrush after using one.
The_Jackal said:
I use Tamiya paints with a cheap airbrush and have never strained my paint, even my old pots, and it has never clogged with rubbish.
Your airbrush is more likely to clog through the paint drying in the nozzle.
Also make sure you get some decent thinners ideally with a retarder built in (ie. the Tamiya X-20 thinners).
Remember, more thin layers is much better than fewer thick layers.
X-18 looks fantastic when it is airbrushed on by the way. You will want to go back and redo all your models with an airbrush after using one.
I've already resigned myself to the fact that this first attempt isn't going to be brilliant, but I'm treating it all as a learning experience. I've picked up some Tamiya thinners over lunch, so will give those a try later. As far as getting existing paint off, I've tried oven cleaner which didn't work that well, but I've heard mention of brake fluid, how long should I leave that to work?Your airbrush is more likely to clog through the paint drying in the nozzle.
Also make sure you get some decent thinners ideally with a retarder built in (ie. the Tamiya X-20 thinners).
Remember, more thin layers is much better than fewer thick layers.
X-18 looks fantastic when it is airbrushed on by the way. You will want to go back and redo all your models with an airbrush after using one.
If I do decide to invest in an airbrush, I take it I'll need a mini booth or similar with some outside venting on it, and what do you all make of this kit? http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/info_45643.html
Steve Evil said:
As far as getting existing paint off, I've tried oven cleaner which didn't work that well, but I've heard mention of brake fluid, how long should I leave that to work?
The best thing I have found which was recommended on britmodeller is Tesco Value All Purpose Cleaner its about 30p for 750 ml and it will clean unvarnished acryllic. I find if you leave stuff in for a while (overnight) it works a like a charm. Its also a bloody brilliant airbrush cleaner.Yertis said:
Eric Mc said:
Thinning is usually done in a separate container. If using an ordinary brush - something like an old style 35mm film cannister or one of those plastic cups that come with cough medecines would be ideal for using as a thinning receptacle.
If airbrushing, you can use a similar technique although these days I tend to mix the paint and thinner in the paint cup of the airbrush itself - it saves having to clean up another item.
That doesn't allow you to strain the paint though. Don't you get problems with clogging?If airbrushing, you can use a similar technique although these days I tend to mix the paint and thinner in the paint cup of the airbrush itself - it saves having to clean up another item.
Steve Evil said:
If I do decide to invest in an airbrush, I take it I'll need a mini booth or similar with some outside venting on it, and what do you all make of this kit? http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/info_45643.html
if you're a lady, yes! (to be honest depends on how much/what you're spraying I would say) I have never bothered wit anything more than an open window (but thats not remotely good practice)great kit...i started with one of those can powered ones and that worked fine for years!
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