Anyone do Anodising?
Discussion
Thank you for the links. I, like the OP, are in the market for some anodising and electro colouring. Dove seem pretty good from their website.
The next question is, how can i get a complex shape produced in alloy, with only a wooden prototype to work from?
To give more information, I have rebuilt an old mountain bike and want to put a rear disc on it without welding anything to the frame. I have built a wooden prototype that attaches to the rack mount and the brake boss, following the line of the frame tubing. It is about 10-12 inches long and would need a 2 inch bar to get the proper shape.
The current prototype is messy and I am going to produce a better one.
How can the exact dimensions be taken from the bike and the wooden prototype and converted into alloy?
Once manufactured I will have it anodised and coloured to match the frame (anodised Ink Blue).
I realise that this is not going to be cheap, but the bike is rather nice and has a lot of sentimental value.
The next question is, how can i get a complex shape produced in alloy, with only a wooden prototype to work from?
To give more information, I have rebuilt an old mountain bike and want to put a rear disc on it without welding anything to the frame. I have built a wooden prototype that attaches to the rack mount and the brake boss, following the line of the frame tubing. It is about 10-12 inches long and would need a 2 inch bar to get the proper shape.
The current prototype is messy and I am going to produce a better one.
How can the exact dimensions be taken from the bike and the wooden prototype and converted into alloy?
Once manufactured I will have it anodised and coloured to match the frame (anodised Ink Blue).
I realise that this is not going to be cheap, but the bike is rather nice and has a lot of sentimental value.
pimpin gimp said:
A2z and betd both do disc adapters which sound very similar to your design, might be easiest to buy one of those.
Thanks, I had seen the A2Z before but not the betd.The A2Z kind of clamps on around the dropout and will as far as I can tell trash the existing anodising and it rotates backwards if you use the brake to sit on the bike facing up a hill, so that is out.
The betd requires drilling the frame, so that is out too.
To avoid this being moved to pedal powered, I just wonder if anyone knows a company that could make the above part from the, fairly rough, wooden prototype?
AVeryNaughtyBoy said:
Thank you for the links. I, like the OP, are in the market for some anodising and electro colouring. Dove seem pretty good from their website.
The next question is, how can i get a complex shape produced in alloy, with only a wooden prototype to work from?
To give more information, I have rebuilt an old mountain bike and want to put a rear disc on it without welding anything to the frame. I have built a wooden prototype that attaches to the rack mount and the brake boss, following the line of the frame tubing. It is about 10-12 inches long and would need a 2 inch bar to get the proper shape.
The current prototype is messy and I am going to produce a better one.
How can the exact dimensions be taken from the bike and the wooden prototype and converted into alloy?
Once manufactured I will have it anodised and coloured to match the frame (anodised Ink Blue).
I realise that this is not going to be cheap, but the bike is rather nice and has a lot of sentimental value.
If you could create a very good model out of wood, I mean very accurate and well finished, you could get someone to run it off using a CAD profiling machine. Basically like tracing, but using a milling machine instead of a pencil, though it may cost a bit of ££ to get it done.The next question is, how can i get a complex shape produced in alloy, with only a wooden prototype to work from?
To give more information, I have rebuilt an old mountain bike and want to put a rear disc on it without welding anything to the frame. I have built a wooden prototype that attaches to the rack mount and the brake boss, following the line of the frame tubing. It is about 10-12 inches long and would need a 2 inch bar to get the proper shape.
The current prototype is messy and I am going to produce a better one.
How can the exact dimensions be taken from the bike and the wooden prototype and converted into alloy?
Once manufactured I will have it anodised and coloured to match the frame (anodised Ink Blue).
I realise that this is not going to be cheap, but the bike is rather nice and has a lot of sentimental value.
WorAl said:
If you could create a very good model out of wood, I mean very accurate and well finished, you could get someone to run it off using a CAD profiling machine. Basically like tracing, but using a milling machine instead of a pencil, though it may cost a bit of ££ to get it done.
Or you could laser scan it in to a CAD program and send it to someone to mill. There are ways of doing laser scanning at home yourself if you have the patience. I seem to recall DAVID is the simplest/cheapest one, with simple and cheap being relativehttp://www.david-laserscanner.com/
WorAl said:
If you could create a very good model out of wood, I mean very accurate and well finished, you could get someone to run it off using a CAD profiling machine. Basically like tracing, but using a milling machine instead of a pencil, though it may cost a bit of ££ to get it done.
Thanks. A second prototype is on my to do list but the first go took 2 days. I think that I would be able to produce a new one within a weekend and make it neat.Nevin said:
Or you could laser scan it in to a CAD program and send it to someone to mill. There are ways of doing laser scanning at home yourself if you have the patience. I seem to recall DAVID is the simplest/cheapest one, with simple and cheap being relative
http://www.david-laserscanner.com/
Thank you too. There seem to be a lot of companies offering the service so, as soon as I have a good prototype, I will get a few quotes.http://www.david-laserscanner.com/
I have been told that a block of alloy is likely to be fairly expensive. I am willing to punt a fair chunk of cash at it as I want the bike to be finished.
Thanks again guys, I now have a lot more knowledge and information to go on.
AVeryNaughtyBoy said:
WorAl said:
If you could create a very good model out of wood, I mean very accurate and well finished, you could get someone to run it off using a CAD profiling machine. Basically like tracing, but using a milling machine instead of a pencil, though it may cost a bit of ££ to get it done.
Thanks. A second prototype is on my to do list but the first go took 2 days. I think that I would be able to produce a new one within a weekend and make it neat.Nevin said:
Or you could laser scan it in to a CAD program and send it to someone to mill. There are ways of doing laser scanning at home yourself if you have the patience. I seem to recall DAVID is the simplest/cheapest one, with simple and cheap being relative
http://www.david-laserscanner.com/
Thank you too. There seem to be a lot of companies offering the service so, as soon as I have a good prototype, I will get a few quotes.http://www.david-laserscanner.com/
I have been told that a block of alloy is likely to be fairly expensive. I am willing to punt a fair chunk of cash at it as I want the bike to be finished.
Thanks again guys, I now have a lot more knowledge and information to go on.
If it's forged stuff you need then it will be more expensive but still not ridiculous.
However, I'm pretty sure that whoever you're going to get the work done by will supply the block you require as it'll probably be the least significant cost by a long way.
WorAl said:
What type of alloy?? Give these a look if it's just straight forward Aluminium Alloy http://www.aluminiumwarehouse.co.uk/Aluminium/c120...
If it's forged stuff you need then it will be more expensive but still not ridiculous.
However, I'm pretty sure that whoever you're going to get the work done by will supply the block you require as it'll probably be the least significant cost by a long way.
That actually seems pretty cheap to me, thanks.If it's forged stuff you need then it will be more expensive but still not ridiculous.
However, I'm pretty sure that whoever you're going to get the work done by will supply the block you require as it'll probably be the least significant cost by a long way.
Jesus TF Christ said:
I would find a local machine shop, give them your model, your frame and your caliper and say go for it.
Actually that's not true; I'd stick Maguras on and save a ridiculous amount of headache.
That thought did pop into my head but I have got a nice set of disc wheels and a pair of Magura discs. I thought that it would be easy and by the time that I discovered that this was not the case I was committed in a male ego / childish challenge kind of way. It will be rather cool when it is finally sorted.Actually that's not true; I'd stick Maguras on and save a ridiculous amount of headache.
People said:
Lots of useful stuff.
Well having properly hijacked this thread I am now armed with enough information. I have a mate that can do some milling for me but the stumbling block was getting the material and getting the dimensions. I will build a new prototype, get it measured / scanned, buy some alloy and give it to him with a few beers.Thanks chaps.
Keep a lookout in pedal powered in a couple of months and it may well appear...
AVeryNaughtyBoy said:
Well having properly hijacked this thread I am now armed with enough information. I have a mate that can do some milling for me but the stumbling block was getting the material and getting the dimensions. I will build a new prototype, get it measured / scanned, buy some alloy and give it to him with a few beers.
Thanks chaps.
Keep a lookout in pedal powered in a couple of months and it may well appear...
If you are interested, I could reverse engineer the Wooden prototype, produce a CAD Drawing and 3D model, then have it made out of Aluminium for you using my usual Fabricators/machine shop.Thanks chaps.
Keep a lookout in pedal powered in a couple of months and it may well appear...
I'll drop you a PM now in case you are interested.
Cheers
Gassing Station | The Lounge | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff