Spent almost 4 figures on a bike and...
Discussion
... I have some grumbles.
Now I know a bit about bikes, but not enough to build my own as I am crap with my hands. Anyway, I recently bought a Rockhopper Comp from Evans. I know £900 isn't actually that much for a bike but in the eyes of an average person it is an obscene amount of money to pay. I am aware Evans is all about making money and that is pretty much where it ends, but most of the students they employ seem to know a bit about bikes so I was willing to use them for the convenience. So with that amount of money you would expect some quality workmanship putting the bike together and handing the finished article over to the customer, no?
When I collected it, I noticed the brakes felt really loose with the handle going a long way back. I asked if they could be tightened but apparently not, that's how they are supposed to be. (Juicy 3 hydraulics). When I got home I noticed around a couple of the tiny stickers around the bike (one on the fork around 4mm high and 3cm long) had been slapped on and creased / bent. That really irritated me. Anyway, after a few weeks the back brake began squeaking, but not little squeaks, proper full on "valley echoing" screeching when applied. I have had this exact issue before on a different bike with disc brakes, maybe they all do it I don't know. Anyway foolishly I ended up putting lube on and ruining the pads. My bad, but it shouldn't have made this noise in the first place. (I ended up using this noise as a bell to get people out the way when cycling the canal paths as it was more effective, all be it it made the bike sound like a 10 year old rusty antique). Anyway out in Hyde Park over the weekend and something felt a bit wrong, ended up the front wheel was very loose and when I brakes the force of the braking was shifting the wheel to the left. I just tightened it on the spot but it still feels a tiny bit weird, not sure if that's me being paranoid. I also noticed when the bike was upside down that the brake disc catches ever so slightly on the caliper as the wheel rotates.
So it goes in for it's free service next week, and I intend to tell Evans I am not particularly impressed so far. I am going to posssibly fork out for a set of pads for the rear wheel unless I tell them it was like that from the start, but I want the other things sorting. Maybe I expect too much I don't know, just seems these days nobody really gives a toss.
Now I know a bit about bikes, but not enough to build my own as I am crap with my hands. Anyway, I recently bought a Rockhopper Comp from Evans. I know £900 isn't actually that much for a bike but in the eyes of an average person it is an obscene amount of money to pay. I am aware Evans is all about making money and that is pretty much where it ends, but most of the students they employ seem to know a bit about bikes so I was willing to use them for the convenience. So with that amount of money you would expect some quality workmanship putting the bike together and handing the finished article over to the customer, no?
When I collected it, I noticed the brakes felt really loose with the handle going a long way back. I asked if they could be tightened but apparently not, that's how they are supposed to be. (Juicy 3 hydraulics). When I got home I noticed around a couple of the tiny stickers around the bike (one on the fork around 4mm high and 3cm long) had been slapped on and creased / bent. That really irritated me. Anyway, after a few weeks the back brake began squeaking, but not little squeaks, proper full on "valley echoing" screeching when applied. I have had this exact issue before on a different bike with disc brakes, maybe they all do it I don't know. Anyway foolishly I ended up putting lube on and ruining the pads. My bad, but it shouldn't have made this noise in the first place. (I ended up using this noise as a bell to get people out the way when cycling the canal paths as it was more effective, all be it it made the bike sound like a 10 year old rusty antique). Anyway out in Hyde Park over the weekend and something felt a bit wrong, ended up the front wheel was very loose and when I brakes the force of the braking was shifting the wheel to the left. I just tightened it on the spot but it still feels a tiny bit weird, not sure if that's me being paranoid. I also noticed when the bike was upside down that the brake disc catches ever so slightly on the caliper as the wheel rotates.
So it goes in for it's free service next week, and I intend to tell Evans I am not particularly impressed so far. I am going to posssibly fork out for a set of pads for the rear wheel unless I tell them it was like that from the start, but I want the other things sorting. Maybe I expect too much I don't know, just seems these days nobody really gives a toss.
Avid juicy 3s are well known for being very spongy, they really aren't very good at all. I don't think the pads will have been bedded in either, which is probably what caused the squeal. With new pads you should do some hard stops from a fair pace and then suirt the brake with water a few times to bed them in properly. As with anything, once you get in to higher spec bikes they become higher maintenance I'm afraid.
Dizeee said:
So if has spent all that and got brakes that are no good, how bad are the brakes on a bike half the price - would they even stop the bike?
That's not quite what I'm getting at, the problem with juicy 3s is that they go spongy incredibly quickly, presumably due to air bubbles getting into he fluid. It appears to be a problem common to juicys; mine has done it, as have a few of my friends' juicy 5s and 7s. Bleeding the brake with better quality fluid doesn't appear to solve the problem either, it will feel great for a week or two then degrade. I know the fluid isn't an issue because I use the same stuff in my Hope and it lasts 8 months to a year before it needs bleeding.Juicy 3s are sh*te. Always have been, always will be. They're powerful, but are forever in need of bleeding, are prone to sticky pistons and can be noisy. The latter two are easy enough to stay on top of if you know what you're doing. Which, if you PUT LUBRICANT ON YOUR BRAKES, I don't think you do...
I have Tektro Draco hydraulic discs. I thought they were a budget brand but over the past ~1300 miles since buying the bike I have not experienced anything of this sponginess that you are describing. I am quite amazed that manufacturers would specify such products when similarly-priced alternatives exist.
And as for putting lube on braking surfaces... seriously?
And as for putting lube on braking surfaces... seriously?
UndercoverAgent said:
... I have some grumbles.
Now I know a bit about bikes
After reading your version of events, I'm not so sure.Now I know a bit about bikes
The owner's manual has several pages on how to check the tightness of the wheels.
It also states;
"The braking action of a bicycle is a function of the friction between the braking surfaces. To make sure that you have maximum friction available, keep your wheel
rims and brake pads or the disk rotor and caliper clean and free of dirt, lubricants, waxes or polishes"
Edited by Beyond Rational on Monday 25th April 15:54
I know the lube was a bad idea but just wanted to get rid of the noise... the brake works but not very well. I knew I could clean the disc but didn't think of the pads.
The other thing I forgot to mention is that the gear indicators have been placed facing outwards from the handlebars, so you have to stand up off the seat and peer over the handlebar in order to see them. I asked someone about this in a different Evans store and they said sometimes it is not possible to fit them facing the correct way - seriously?
The other thing I forgot to mention is that the gear indicators have been placed facing outwards from the handlebars, so you have to stand up off the seat and peer over the handlebar in order to see them. I asked someone about this in a different Evans store and they said sometimes it is not possible to fit them facing the correct way - seriously?
To stop any squeaking in future, loosen the two bolts that screw into the brake adapter so that the brake caliper has some lateral movement, clamp the brake and tighten the bolts back up. This is assuming your disk is straight.
To move the shifters, simply loosen the pinch bolt that attaches the shifter to your bars, you may need to do the same for the brake lever, as it sits ontop. I presume the shop guy meant he couldn't be arsed to simple loosen two bolts.
To move the shifters, simply loosen the pinch bolt that attaches the shifter to your bars, you may need to do the same for the brake lever, as it sits ontop. I presume the shop guy meant he couldn't be arsed to simple loosen two bolts.
Stop pretending you know about bikes - you don't. Once that has absorbed, speak to a decent bike mechanic and ask for advice on the issues discussed. The internet has tonnes of "how to" vids, guides, etc. Also get a modern bike maintenance book and learn what you can.
Juicy 3s aren't great but they can be set up to work well enough. Dodgy stickers aren't an issue. Loose wheels skewers just need tightening - I check mine before every ride.
Just chill out, be humble and learn. If you really get the byg, you'll soon be drooling over quality bike tools and relishing the challenge of overcoming problems with the bike.
Juicy 3s aren't great but they can be set up to work well enough. Dodgy stickers aren't an issue. Loose wheels skewers just need tightening - I check mine before every ride.
Just chill out, be humble and learn. If you really get the byg, you'll soon be drooling over quality bike tools and relishing the challenge of overcoming problems with the bike.
Vladimir said:
Stop pretending you know about bikes - you don't. Once that has absorbed, speak to a decent bike mechanic and ask for advice on the issues discussed. The internet has tonnes of "how to" vids, guides, etc. Also get a modern bike maintenance book and learn what you can.
Juicy 3s aren't great but they can be set up to work well enough. Dodgy stickers aren't an issue. Loose wheels skewers just need tightening - I check mine before every ride.
Just chill out, be humble and learn. If you really get the byg, you'll soon be drooling over quality bike tools and relishing the challenge of overcoming problems with the bike.
+1, putting lube on your braking surface?!?!?!Juicy 3s aren't great but they can be set up to work well enough. Dodgy stickers aren't an issue. Loose wheels skewers just need tightening - I check mine before every ride.
Just chill out, be humble and learn. If you really get the byg, you'll soon be drooling over quality bike tools and relishing the challenge of overcoming problems with the bike.
Did you think about going back to the shop and maybe mentioning the problem to them?
I've got juicy threes, they're fine.
I bought a hybrid with juicy 3's which I use daily for work, and in nearly a year of riding I have had no problem with them at all.
They certainly stop better than the brakes on my road bike.
I regularly check skewers, bolts and everything else on my bikes
As stated above, read up, there is plenty of info out there
They certainly stop better than the brakes on my road bike.
I regularly check skewers, bolts and everything else on my bikes
As stated above, read up, there is plenty of info out there
Avid 3's are good entry hydraulic discs and have served me well over the years on my mtb, whilst I've changed pads numerous times I have managed to get by with only ever needing to bleed once on the rear, I did both a month ago just to flush out the old fluid after the winter, but was not actually required. The levers are firm have very good modulation and are anything but spongy unless I'm stood stationary trying to pull the lever as hard as possible. The discs have been fine the rear warped a tad when I had to increase the bolt hole size to fit a new xt hub which needed re-threading after I over-torqued up the bolts on first fitting.
The callipers do go out of line easily but are easily put right. Unless you were heading seriously downhill or wanting the lightest XC bike they are more than good enough in most situations. They were excellent in the wet&cold weather when I used the bike as a winter commuter in London.
Please you must be joking in terms of lubing the rear brake? the best thing you can do now is to replace the pads on the rear they'll be contaminated and give the disc a good clean with some meths. You will then need to bed the brakes in again, 20 stops from 20mph should do it.
The callipers do go out of line easily but are easily put right. Unless you were heading seriously downhill or wanting the lightest XC bike they are more than good enough in most situations. They were excellent in the wet&cold weather when I used the bike as a winter commuter in London.
Please you must be joking in terms of lubing the rear brake? the best thing you can do now is to replace the pads on the rear they'll be contaminated and give the disc a good clean with some meths. You will then need to bed the brakes in again, 20 stops from 20mph should do it.
Edited by OneDs on Tuesday 26th April 11:18
My wife's Rockhopper (2008 Disk) has Juicy three and for some reason they have been much more reliable than my hateful old Juicy 5s which I could never keep in "tune" for long. They just work. Tri-align works fairly well for lining up the pads. Only major issue is pad replacement - the design is dreadful and often requires brute force/violence.
Now got Elixir CRs on my Stumpy which are great but a wee bit pricey/ponsy. About 56575575858 times easier to replace pads though.
I'm still giggling about lubing brakes to quieten them down...
Now got Elixir CRs on my Stumpy which are great but a wee bit pricey/ponsy. About 56575575858 times easier to replace pads though.
I'm still giggling about lubing brakes to quieten them down...
Vladimir said:
About 57 billion plus or minus 2 billion times easier to replace pads though.
I'm still giggling about lubing brakes to quieten them down...
<geek> graaaaaargh, never quote an approximate number to a high degree of accuracy. At's betterI'm still giggling about lubing brakes to quieten them down...
</geek>
And I think I know where you got the lubing brakes thing...
the Darwin Awards said:
(Summer 2001, USA) I am a keen mountain-biker, and was the proud owner of a fairly expensive mountain bike. My bike was fitted with 'V' brakes, which are extremely effective, though prone to squealing.
My dear brother decided to have a ride on my bike one day, while I was out. He noticed the squealing as he cycled down the hill we live on, towards the invariably busy crossroads at the bottom. Being a helpful sort, he headed back home and proceeded to pour a generous amount of 3-in-1 oil onto the brakes, before once more setting off down the hill.
The oil worked! The only reported squealing came from my brother, as he slammed into the side of a moving VW Beetle. To this day he sports an impressive scar running from his eye socket to just past his ear.
And yes, the bike was totaled.
My dear brother decided to have a ride on my bike one day, while I was out. He noticed the squealing as he cycled down the hill we live on, towards the invariably busy crossroads at the bottom. Being a helpful sort, he headed back home and proceeded to pour a generous amount of 3-in-1 oil onto the brakes, before once more setting off down the hill.
The oil worked! The only reported squealing came from my brother, as he slammed into the side of a moving VW Beetle. To this day he sports an impressive scar running from his eye socket to just past his ear.
And yes, the bike was totaled.
okgo said:
You wouldn't touch Hope brakes?
Why? They've been used for years, and are well regarded.
Nope - too many issues.Why? They've been used for years, and are well regarded.
Plus a mate of mine is a professional bike mechanic and trains other as well as being a SRAM race team spanner man - he likes a lot of Hope stuff but can't abide their brakes.
Hard to set up, not that powerful, awkward pad changing, etc.
I stick to Elixirs but would also consider Formulas - nothing else.
Edited by Vladimir on Tuesday 26th April 15:01
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