Matt Varnish Comparison

[dr_gn]

So I did a bit of Matt varnish comparison today while I was respraying the S2000. It wasn't very scientific, just a couple of ice cream tub lids painted with Dark Sea Grey, Pale Blue and Olive Green, then masked and sprayed with a variety of varnishes:





Not particularly useful as an absolute test, but I thought I'd post them anyway. You can however see very well how varnish affects the base colour (the "Vallejo Gloss" sample is a good indication of how the samples looked before overcoating). The "Revell Aqua Colour" puts a definite white sheen on everything, and that pot has gone in the bin now. The best results were, as expected, from the Humbrol spray can and Vallejo Matt. Difficult to see the subtle differences in quality and 'dullness', but after much head scratching on matt varnishes over the past months, I've finally got proof of the best ones !

Hope this is of some help to someone!

[perdu]

Very clear (sorry ) testing doc

I was very pleased with the Humbrol matt varnish 49 aerosol myself on the Typhoon.

I expect to stick with this myself "until"

Until because there is always a day when what we "know" clashes with what actually happens...

I suggest popping your results in the Wiki could be worthwhile, save a lot of questions too.

[SlipStream77]

Sorry to hijack the topic slightly but can anyone tell me if I should mask a canopy before applying a coat of Humbrol acrylic gloss?

I'm thinking that since it's clear it shouldn't matter.

[dr_gn]

SlipStream77 said:

Sorry to hijack the topic slightly but can anyone tell me if I should mask a canopy before applying a coat of Humbrol acrylic gloss?

I'm thinking that since it's clear it shouldn't matter.

I'd think the same, so long as you get a "wet" coat ie full coverage and no dusty edges.

Try it on an old cd case first though.

BTW Matt and satin varnishes definitely make transparent bits frosted.

[SlipStream77]

Thanks that's useful.

[perdu]

I'd advise masking it, myself

Whatever you do the canopy or windows will always shine differently to paint work, even if high gloss finished whether car, plane or ship.

Mask it and apply Klear (if you can get some) afterwards to finish.

[Eric Mc]

I use Xtracrylix acrylic matt - if that's of any use to anyone. So far, I have been pretty happy with the effects.

[SlipStream77]

Thanks for the advice, I tried some Humbrol gloss acrylic on a CD case and it may be my technique but it turned it opaque.

I've used Humbrol's satin in the past and it's been excellent, I wonder if I need to apply another coat, or if I applied too much in one go. I suppose it could also have reacted with the plastic case?

[perdu]

SlipStream77 said:

Thanks for the advice, I tried some Humbrol gloss acrylic on a CD case and it may be my technique but it turned it opaque.

I've used Humbrol's satin in the past and it's been excellent, I wonder if I need to apply another coat, or if I applied too much in one go. I suppose it could also have reacted with the plastic case?

I'd still advise masking and using Johnson's Klear afterwards

Or if you cannot obtain Klear, mask and then give the canopy a dry polish when the masking is off. Just to emphasise the difference.


As to the varnish causing a clouding reaction maybe a light coat first to "work" the surface, then when dry another "wetter" coat to allow the shine to float onto the surface and finish the job.

Do allow the first coat a day or so to dry right out, too.

[SlipStream77]

Thanks, I will try giving it another coat just to see if it actually requires more than one to achieve a shine. The instructions do state several light coats so that may be the answer.

I have been trying to avoid having to remask, the Walrus canopy in 1/72 requires a bit of work. I even thought about masking the whole canopy and, after spraying the varnish, just hand-painting the canopy frames with gloss afterwards.

I have used Klear in the past but only using a brush to apply it, the results were not great, it was satin even after several coats and it didn't seem to self level very well.

[perdu]

SlipStream77 said:

Thanks, I will try giving it another coat just to see if it actually requires more than one to achieve a shine. The instructions do state several light coats so that may be the answer.

I have been trying to avoid having to remask, the Walrus canopy in 1/72 requires a bit of work. I even thought about masking the whole canopy and, after spraying the varnish, just hand-painting the canopy frames with gloss afterwards.

I have used Klear in the past but only using a brush to apply it, the results were not great, it was satin even after several coats and it didn't seem to self level very well.

Hmm

Not too good

I doubt if the use of another coat or two will help, but in this game I find that waht worked last time has stopped working this time

I was very pleased with Klear for the Typhoon, better results than I'd expected TBH, all brushed but I didn't have quite as good a result when preloading the matt paint to get a glossy surface.

I just peeped in to look at the Tiffie in its storage box and the clear parts still look fine to me

Small brush used as for paint as normal when painting the clear bits, no decent close up pics though but my Shackleton had the same treatment

This was made in 1983 by the way but photographed last month

I find that Klear sometimes gets a little "bitty" on the surface, but this can be lifted out by gently brushing away any "bits", dust and hairy residue whilst still wet. And you can keep it wet until you have the effect you want.

Hope we can help you out with this

[dr_gn]

SlipStream77 said:

Thanks, I will try giving it another coat just to see if it actually requires more than one to achieve a shine. The instructions do state several light coats so that may be the answer.

I have been trying to avoid having to remask, the Walrus canopy in 1/72 requires a bit of work. I even thought about masking the whole canopy and, after spraying the varnish, just hand-painting the canopy frames with gloss afterwards.

I have used Klear in the past but only using a brush to apply it, the results were not great, it was satin even after several coats and it didn't seem to self level very well.

In the past, way before the days of Klear, I used Humbrol Gloss Enamel, brush painted onto canopies to make them seem more transparent. This was an established technique, and obviously made the canopies clearer, not more opaque.

I think a good way of telling if a varnish is going to discolour something is to look in the tin or bottle, if it's milky, it will discolour, if it's clear it will not. Revell Aqua Matt for example is almost white in the bottle, and this transfers with disasterous results to whatever you put it onto. Humbrol Gloss Enamel onthe other hand is virtually transparent, as is Johnsons Klear.

[SlipStream77]

Thanks for the suggestions, I think I will try again with painting Klear, perhaps on a less obvious area such as underneath the tailplane.

I will use a wide brush and not load it too much, hoping to reduce any excessive buildup at the edges.

The last model I used Klear on was hand painted, this one is airbrushed so that may make a bit of a difference.

[dr_gn]

SlipStream77 said:

Thanks for the suggestions, I think I will try again with painting Klear, perhaps on a less obvious area such as underneath the tailplane.

I will use a wide brush and not load it too much, hoping to reduce any excessive buildup at the edges.

The last model I used Klear on was hand painted, this one is airbrushed so that may make a bit of a difference.

The Klear I've got is so thin that brush or airbrush application makes no discernable difference.

[Eric Mc]

I find Klear brushes fine and, if brushed, gives a good gloss coat quicker than when airbrushed.

I use both techniques depending on what I am using the Klear for.

[dr_gn]

Eric Mc said:

I find Klear brushes fine and, if brushed, gives a good gloss coat quicker than when airbrushed.

I use both techniques depending on what I am using the Klear for.

I always dip transparencies into the Klear until they are immersed, then wick away the excess with a tissue. It's not as easy as it sounds, becasue the Klear takes a surprisingly long time to pool in various nooks and crannies if left in one position.