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Vergis
234 posts
111 months
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Knights of Aston said: Don't EVER jack the car on the chassis rail that runs front to rear towards the middle of the car on both sides. It's part of the crash structure and not designed to take the weight of the vehicle. It's designed to distort (ie, it's a weak spot deliberately!) in a particular fashion in an impact and if it's been dented or bent by a jack/ramp/axle stand it won't perform as intended. Only jack the car at the points on the sill edge where there is a cut out and then slide and axle stand under the subframe. It is harder on a roadster but there are some suspension mounting points that will do the job. If you are unsure let an Aston trained tech do it for you. You don't won't to have to have the chassis rails replced because of someone elses carelessness. I think the pictures above show the car being held on these rails you mention ???
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rick-derby-
1,105 posts
56 months
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mikey k
6,388 posts
85 months
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Vergis
234 posts
111 months
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Nice one Rick. It seems some people feel very qualified to advise.
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KarlFranz
1,027 posts
139 months
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rick-derby- said: Awesome reply, Rick!
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millsjq
130 posts
30 months
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Knights of Aston: When you stated" Don't EVER jack the car on the chassis rail" are you referring to the rails that the car on Ricks photos are being supported by?
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Knights of Aston
311 posts
47 months
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I'm qualified because I work for them.
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millsjq
130 posts
30 months
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I am not questioning anyones qualification just trying to understand where to lift and where not to lift my Aston. I have a 4 post lift with a rolling jack but do not want to use the wrong points.
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Knights of Aston
311 posts
47 months
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Where the cut out is along the edge of the painted sill cover is the correct place to lift the car.There is one toward the front and one toward the rear. There is a hole with a grommit (grommit not always there) in it. That's the place we've always been trained to use. The subframes are generally OK so long as it is a point where a couple of points meet as there is extra strength there. The chassis rails (which I have always been advised not to use) have indents at either end so are relatively easy to spot.
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Knights of Aston
311 posts
47 months
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I guess works service can't be right every time...
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Knights of Aston
311 posts
47 months
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millsjq said: I am not questioning anyones qualification just trying to understand where to lift and where not to lift my Aston. I have a 4 post lift with a rolling jack but do not want to use the wrong points. Sorry for the late reply but here's the info from the workshop manual. 
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mikey k
6,388 posts
85 months
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Could we have a bigger version (or glasses  )
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Knights of Aston
311 posts
47 months
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This one should be a bit bigger! Only just though... 
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CatalystV12V
426 posts
50 months
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Sorry to drag this one back again..,
But.... If I use the jacking points as indicated above (also shown like this in my manual) ..the cup on my jack will extend beyond the rectangular areas indicated.. Therefore it will contact what looks like the undertray and obviously part of thie plastic sill that wraps under the car... Is this ok?
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mikey k
6,388 posts
85 months
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I use rubber ice hockey pucks in the trolley jack cup so I can put the load ONLY on the metal jacking point.
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KarlFranz
1,027 posts
139 months
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CatalystV12V said: Sorry to drag this one back again..,
But.... If I use the jacking points as indicated above (also shown like this in my manual) ..the cup on my jack will extend beyond the rectangular areas indicated.. Therefore it will contact what looks like the undertray and obviously part of thie plastic sill that wraps under the car... Is this ok? No, it is not OK. You run the risk of cracking the sill. Either use a different jack or use some kind of space in the cup. A lot of people take a hockey puck and trim it to the needed shape.
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yvr
177 posts
15 months
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I've had four aluminum blocks made -- one for each jacking point -- and I keep them in the car at all times in case I have to get emergency service at some out of the way garage. They're about 1" x 1.5" x 4".
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CatalystV12V
426 posts
50 months
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Thanks for clearing that up folks.. As an interim measure I've ordered a couple of Ice Hockey pucks.. Will look in to the 'aluminium bars' options later..
Thanks again!!
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DB9VolanteDriver
727 posts
45 months
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yvr said: I've had four aluminum blocks made -- one for each jacking point -- and I keep them in the car at all times in case I have to get emergency service at some out of the way garage. They're about 1" x 1.5" x 4". I use hard maple blocks rather than aluminum because mine are semi-permanently attached to the car lifting points using very strong double-side carpet tape. The aluminum blocks would potentially fall off over time due to being much heavier than the wood version. Because of the wrap around nature of the sill, you can't see them unless you have your head against the ground, so they are not unsightly. I also have a couple spares in the car, just in case one were to fall off, but that is really unlikely. And they are really cheap, so you can make a lot of them at one time, just in case. Dimensions of these blocks are: Front: 2" x 4-1/2" x 1-3/4" Rear: 2" x 6-1/2" x 1-1/4" They are much larger than the ones mentioned in the quote because they provide more leeway when positioning a jack, or lifting arms on a 2-post lift.
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peterr96
1,695 posts
44 months
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DB9VolanteDriver said: I use hard maple blocks You beat me too it. I was going to suggest getting wood until I realised what MichaelV8V might do with it. . . . . If you see what I mean.
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