Discussion
I find it hard to tell from the picture, although my initial reaction was "not too bad".
You can buy a proper tool to measure chain wear, or just measure it with a ruler. Clean the chain, lie flat and push the links together over a section. Measure the distance between rivet centres over something like 20-25cm, then pull the chain to extend as far as you can and re-measure.
I forget the biking details but on industrial chains generally between 1% & 2% increase in length is ok and wouldn't worry me. The percentages might sound low, but all the wear is concentrated on the insides of the rivets, not the side plates of the links, so it's actually quite a lot of wear.
But on your pics, the c/w teeth look ok on both rings and even with a new chain it won't "hug" the rings at the bottom - gravity will drag it down.
(needs a clean though
)
You can buy a proper tool to measure chain wear, or just measure it with a ruler. Clean the chain, lie flat and push the links together over a section. Measure the distance between rivet centres over something like 20-25cm, then pull the chain to extend as far as you can and re-measure.
I forget the biking details but on industrial chains generally between 1% & 2% increase in length is ok and wouldn't worry me. The percentages might sound low, but all the wear is concentrated on the insides of the rivets, not the side plates of the links, so it's actually quite a lot of wear.
But on your pics, the c/w teeth look ok on both rings and even with a new chain it won't "hug" the rings at the bottom - gravity will drag it down.
(needs a clean though
)Pop into any bike shop - they'll have a tool that looks a bit like this...
which will tell you for certain one way or the other.
Alternatively, the other option is to measure the chain yourself with a steel ruler - one link (male and female) should measure one inch. if it's more than 1/16th out over 8 or so links its time for a new chain.
which will tell you for certain one way or the other.
Alternatively, the other option is to measure the chain yourself with a steel ruler - one link (male and female) should measure one inch. if it's more than 1/16th out over 8 or so links its time for a new chain.
shalmaneser said:
Pop into any bike shop - they'll have a tool that looks a bit like this...
which will tell you for certain one way or the other.
Alternatively, the other option is to measure the chain yourself with a steel ruler - one link (male and female) should measure one inch. if it's more than 1/16th out over 8 or so links its time for a new chain.
This.which will tell you for certain one way or the other.
Alternatively, the other option is to measure the chain yourself with a steel ruler - one link (male and female) should measure one inch. if it's more than 1/16th out over 8 or so links its time for a new chain.
And bear in mind, if the chain is f
ked, it's more than likely the cassette and chainrings are too, and you'll need to replace them all at the same time else you'll end up with a new chain that slips.Trust us bike shop seasoned mechanics - we've had enough 'I'm an engineer and it shouldn't happen' chaps come in and then come in a few days later tail between legs for a new cassette and chainrings to know how it works
a11y_m said:
Most useful tool ever (apart from the big f**king hammer). I change chains as soon as I notice they reach the 1% stretch marker, makes cassettes/chainrings last longer.
This. I change mine if the 0.75 marker fits in easy, so even before 1%.Without fail.
Chain length tool £10
New chain £10
Chainring £50+
Cassette £20+
walm said:
This. I change mine if the 0.75 marker fits in easy, so even before 1%.
Without fail.
Chain length tool £10
New chain £10
Chainring £50+
Cassette £20+
If more people would do this I would get a lot less abuse!Without fail.
Chain length tool £10
New chain £10
Chainring £50+
Cassette £20+
'What do you mean the gears are slipping! I just paid £15 plus fitting for a new chain...' etc etc.
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