Caterham R400 K-engine MBE map Help

[calimerus]

Hi all.

I'm having some problem finding someone (here in Italy) able to map my Caterham R400

I've got a year 2003 R400 Rover K 1800 cc minister engine with roller barrels and 4-1 exhaust without cat.

Verniers fitted and 120/100 timed.

MBE 967 ecu


The original map was not so goot at low revs.. and now that i removed the cat it's even worse, the cars pops and bangs and isn't drivable.


I would really appreciate if someone can give me a suitable MBE map that i can use to make my car run good (with my setup) and eventually bring it to make a map refinement.

Thanks in advice

[calimerus]

Yes, I've done it... but if I put it on the right load site (site 0) 0,45v , the car doest run at all.. :-///

Now the only way to use it is to "cheat" the tps putting it into load site 3!


I need a better map to put on. I think the original Caterham map can't handle retimed verniers and cat removal..

[calimerus]

Everything about leads and ignition is new.. the older part is one year old.

I've a new TPS, I fitted it and it gave me the same readings (so I thought the older one was good).. but i didn't drove the car with that, I should try...

I've also made a little balance of the TB'S, but I made it only without checking whit some instruments.

The story is:

The car was "perfect" (as much perfect can be an R400 with the original Caterham map), i had only problems on mountains where the engine frequently shouted off.

Than i fitted and timed vernier cam, the car became more solid on high revs.

Than i removed the catalitic converter and all became bullst... the car don't keep idle and goes even worse on high altitudes.. so I found that to make the car run, the only way was to "cheat" the TPS putting it on load site 3 instead of 0.

Than i brought the car to a "map specialist" that made a mess playing with the lambda control.. so I had to put the original map back.


Now I would like to try to put an optimized R400 map (since I know there are a lot of better map the the original one out there) to see if things goes better.



Any suggestions?

It looks strange to me that a cat removal made that mess.. but it should be, considering that i changed the cam timing (120/100 as DVA suggested to me)

[calimerus]

Thanks :-)


email sent

[calimerus]

Anyway, talking about lambda.. do you know which kind of lambda is fitted?

I see there's a choice between LSEU3 AND LA2/3.

When i start easy map, i see in green "lambda control active" an I've also a target lambda map that i can't understand (you will see it in the file).

But if I open the lambda control choice i find : activated, deactivated and "ffh=?" that I don't know what it means.

Standard is on ffh=? and if I put to deactivated or activated, I lose the option to go back to ffh=?, really strange...

[calimerus]

I will try again with the lambda.

When I was at the shop and we putted on "deactivated", the correction started to work! It's a lot strange, if I look at that with easymap 5.5

If I open the map with easymap 4 it seems different. May be theres something wrong whit the software?

[calimerus]

John, your map is exactly what I need to try If my setup works :-)

[calimerus]

Playing with easymap I just noticed that opening an making changes on lambda control on easymap 5.5 and than opening the same map again with easymap 4, shows me different results :-OOO

May be there's something wrong with the software? (or my ecu software is older/newer than the one on easymap)

Which one I should use?

[calimerus]

.... no

What's that thing? :-)

[calimerus]

Clear !

I'll buy one.

Back from vacation I'll do the job :-)

[calimerus]

Which is the right size for roller barrels?

I see there are for 48 or 50/55... or anyone is good the same?

http://www.ebay.it/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m57...

Edited by calimerus on Friday 15th August 13:52

Edited by calimerus on Friday 15th August 14:12

[calimerus]

I'm back from vacation and the Synchrometer is arrived :-)

This evening I'll go to put the new TPS and balance the rollers barrels.

Which kind of values I should expect?

Can I balance every cone or only by pairs?

[calimerus]

IBDAET said:

You should get each pair the same and set them to about 5.5kg/hr when the throttle pot is at its lowest reading on the Throttle Index Map. RPM should eb around 1000. Then take it out for a drive and feel the improvement.

You mean 5.5+5.5 / 5.5+5.5

or 5.5 (total 1st pair) / 5.5 (total 2nd pair) ?

[calimerus]

No way... :-/

If I try to setup idle ( from the screw ) and TPS everything doest work. I can't put TPS on position 0.0 and set idle at 1000 at the same time.

The only thing I can do to is put the TPS over 2.3 and set the idle down to 1000 (playing with the idle screw), but if i put TPS on site 0.0 the maximum idle I can achieve is not more than 700-800 rpm and the car run bad and shuts down

I'm starting to think the verniers pulleys aren't timed right.. because I can't believe that a cat removal started this mess.

When I removed the cat I asked to fine-retime again the pulleys, maybe something went wrong there.

Edited by calimerus on Wednesday 27th August 22:02

Edited by calimerus on Wednesday 27th August 22:04

[calimerus]

I'm checking again if cam's are timed right, because te car don't keep the idle at 1000 rpm.

To be able to have 1000 rpm and 0,45v load site one, we worked (drilling) on the TPS holes to gain some regulation range,

[calimerus]

Thanks, I will try this way.

May be my car is already too rich? I don't remember the exact value, but the fuel gain was already 70 or more.

Do you think is better to use easymap 5.5 than EM6 ? Because I found the correct software configuration inside easymap 6, not 5.5

[calimerus]

I can't do it myself today because I left the car to the mechanical to check the timing.

He says timing is ok.

He don't fid the way to put 0.45 and 1000 rpm.

It seems to be too rich..

If we increase the value it became rich or poor?

It seems to be laener the bigger the value is..

Now triyng ( on the phone) value 100-110 and it runs better than 71.. with 55 doesn't run at all (with a lot of fuel)

But still needs a lot of barrels opening (like 4-5 mm)

We will try to set high fuel gain and go down back slowly

Edited by calimerus on Saturday 20th September 17:58

Edited by calimerus on Saturday 20th September 18:00

Edited by calimerus on Saturday 20th September 18:01

[calimerus]

Playing with the fuel gain I modify all the fuelling range. And isn't this car already too rich?

Isn't better to adjust fuel (and/or ignition) only, around the idle cells on the map?


Now it keeps idle at 1000 with 90 fuel gain and correct air flow but I've to go to the machanics to try if it's good , and it still bangs on 2-3000 rpm range


If he put back to 71 the car bangs. Maybe it's because of the catalitic converter removal I need more fuelling?

Edited by calimerus on Monday 22 September 09:07

Edited by calimerus on Monday 22 September 09:10

[calimerus]

IBDAET said:

The overall fuel gain lets you adjust the fueling at load site 0 without messing around with the individual cell values.

Really? I thougth that the "overall fuel gain" was something like a value multiplier allover the fuel range... so what is it exactly for?


Anyway, I went to the mechanical to try it on the road:

0,45 v

11kg per couple

85 fuel gain value


The car (after is warmed up) keeps the idle at 1000 rpm and runs very good, no hesitation anymore on the rev range :-)))

No pops and bangs on a given rpm, but only taking foot away from the pedal (that I assume is normal)




Now what do you suggest? I should leave it like that? (asap I'll go to check if the carburation is on the stechiometric range)


We have seen that If we go under 85, the car is very rough and don't keep the idle.


Also, now is perfect after warmed up, but for the first minute after I turn the ignition on, it needs a little gas to stay on and it bangs a lot with half meter flames from the exhaust :-OOOOO

Edited by calimerus on Tuesday 23 September 00:39

[calimerus]

IBDAET said:

So we are making progress...... Which is good.

Big progress :-) The car runs fine, maybe better than "all the mess" started

IBDAET said:

Apart from the overall fuel gain setting at 85, have you changed the map at all since you emailed it to me?

When it pops and bangs, what RPM are you taking it to???

No, nothing changed, I've still the original map.

Low rpm, around 2000 rpm, big flames ( :-D ) for the first minute.. when the car is hot, all work fine.

I need to push the pedal to keep the engine on for the very first seconds and than to make it warm quickly