K-Series powered 7 – won’t start
Discussion
During my last blat of last year the engine on my Caterham suddenly stopped, and I’ve not been able to get it running since. It turns over but, doesn’t even attempt to fire on any cylinders.
The vehicle is a 1999 EU2 K-series Supersport.
All 4 plugs have a spark, but I replaced the distributor cap and rotor arm as they didn’t look great.
The battery is always kept on a conditioner, and it cranks over fine but I did try a booster on the battery just in case, and it made no difference.
The fuel pump primes as usual when the ignition is turned on, and fuel comes out of the fuel pipe that connects to the fuel rail when the engine is cranked over - and after cranking there is a fuel smell.
I’ve had the MFRU apart and cleaned up the relay contacts (even though they looked fine with no sign of corrosion).
The cam belt looks fine and doesn’t appear to have jumped a tooth.
I’ve not replaced any of the sensors as I understand that it would still run with a dead sensor – just not very well. The crank position sensor did come up on a few forum searches – but surely if this was dead then I wouldn’t have a spark?!
I’ve checked all the wiring several times now and it seems ok.
The only other thing I can think of is that there is something wrong with the fuel injectors or injector loom, but I’m not sure how to check this. In the Haynes manual it says to take to a Rover garage to get it diagnosed – is there a DIY way to check this?
If anyone has any ideas, please let me know as I’m running out of things to check!
The vehicle is a 1999 EU2 K-series Supersport.
All 4 plugs have a spark, but I replaced the distributor cap and rotor arm as they didn’t look great.
The battery is always kept on a conditioner, and it cranks over fine but I did try a booster on the battery just in case, and it made no difference.
The fuel pump primes as usual when the ignition is turned on, and fuel comes out of the fuel pipe that connects to the fuel rail when the engine is cranked over - and after cranking there is a fuel smell.
I’ve had the MFRU apart and cleaned up the relay contacts (even though they looked fine with no sign of corrosion).
The cam belt looks fine and doesn’t appear to have jumped a tooth.
I’ve not replaced any of the sensors as I understand that it would still run with a dead sensor – just not very well. The crank position sensor did come up on a few forum searches – but surely if this was dead then I wouldn’t have a spark?!
I’ve checked all the wiring several times now and it seems ok.
The only other thing I can think of is that there is something wrong with the fuel injectors or injector loom, but I’m not sure how to check this. In the Haynes manual it says to take to a Rover garage to get it diagnosed – is there a DIY way to check this?
If anyone has any ideas, please let me know as I’m running out of things to check!
battered said:
Do you have a Big Red Key battery isolator? If so bypass it and try again, they are notorious for giving trouble. Ask me how I know.
Thanks, but no isolator fitted.tin duck dave said:
You say it just stopped on a run, was that at speed or while idling. The cause of the stop is almost certainly the cause of the non start. Have you checked compression and timing?
I had just taken it out for a run and got a couple of miles down the road. I’m always very careful with warming up the engine, and keep the revs down until the oil is up to temperature. I’m pretty sure it wasn’t a mechanical failure – it just died, like it had run out of fuel.
MKnight702 said:
If the spark is controlled by a distributor then a failed crank sensor wouldn't necessarily stop a spark from happening. However, it would stop fuel being injected since as far as the ECU is concerned the engine is not running.
Thank you, that is very helpful - looks like it might be an idea to try another crank sensor then DVandrews said:
The spark isn't controlled by the distributor as it is a simple cap and arm, all the coil control is done by the ECU which wont function without the crank sensor operating
Dave
Thanks Dave, back to square one then!Dave
upsidedownmark said:
Bit hard to check now it's stopped, but cranking might be fast enough to kick the rev counter?
Thanks Mark, yes the rev-counter is still working.Thanks for all the suggestions so far...
At the weekend I removed the 5as (alarm) module and there was something rattling around inside. I took the lid off and found a small pcb had become detached from the main board. The immobiliser packed up years ago, but I wasn't too worried as I never leave the car anywhere apart from my garage. Anyway, I soldered it back on and I now have a working immobiliser - the car still won't start though!
I also took the lid off the ecu, and it looks fine inside - nothing burnt out and no sign of getting wet inside.
I've also checked inside the MFU again, and all looks good.
I disconnected the crank sensor just to test the theory that no crank sensor = no spark and it stopped sparking.
Anyone want to buy a Caterham non-runner?!
At the weekend I removed the 5as (alarm) module and there was something rattling around inside. I took the lid off and found a small pcb had become detached from the main board. The immobiliser packed up years ago, but I wasn't too worried as I never leave the car anywhere apart from my garage. Anyway, I soldered it back on and I now have a working immobiliser - the car still won't start though!
I also took the lid off the ecu, and it looks fine inside - nothing burnt out and no sign of getting wet inside.
I've also checked inside the MFU again, and all looks good.
I disconnected the crank sensor just to test the theory that no crank sensor = no spark and it stopped sparking.
Anyone want to buy a Caterham non-runner?!
I've not changed the HT leads as I have a spark at each plug - and I checked all the leads go where they should.
Also checked the timing marks on the cams and crankshaft and all looks correctly aligned.
The fuel wouldn't have been that old when it stopped last year as I use the car quite often during the summer.
Also checked the timing marks on the cams and crankshaft and all looks correctly aligned.
The fuel wouldn't have been that old when it stopped last year as I use the car quite often during the summer.
Hi Bertbert
Yes, that's right I have sparks at each plug, and fuel seems to be getting into each pot (each plug is wet when removed).
What I don't know is the timing of the spark and the injectors - I guess with a standard MEMS ECU there is no way to tell without the Rover diagnostic equipment?
I've not checked the compression, but there's no reason why it shouldn't be at least good enough to get it running, as the engine didn't go bang - and I think it would at least try to fire on a couple of cylinders if not all 4. I also know the history of the engine, as I've had it from new and it's always looked after.
I don't know anyone with an Emarald unfortunately.
Yes, that's right I have sparks at each plug, and fuel seems to be getting into each pot (each plug is wet when removed).
What I don't know is the timing of the spark and the injectors - I guess with a standard MEMS ECU there is no way to tell without the Rover diagnostic equipment?
I've not checked the compression, but there's no reason why it shouldn't be at least good enough to get it running, as the engine didn't go bang - and I think it would at least try to fire on a couple of cylinders if not all 4. I also know the history of the engine, as I've had it from new and it's always looked after.
I don't know anyone with an Emarald unfortunately.
Thanks for all the replies..
I bought a can of ‘Easy start’, and it still wouldn’t fire. I guess that rules out a fuel or injector switching problem.
Yes, I’ve checked the inertia switch.
I was driving on a smooth road when it cut out.
Yes, the butterfly opens fine.
I’m now thinking maybe it is the ECU is on the blink – causing it to spark at the wrong time. I do have a spare, but as the ECU and alarm module need to be matched, I’ll have to get it reprogrammed.
I bought a can of ‘Easy start’, and it still wouldn’t fire. I guess that rules out a fuel or injector switching problem.
Yes, I’ve checked the inertia switch.
I was driving on a smooth road when it cut out.
Yes, the butterfly opens fine.
ben5575 said:
If you pm me your email I can send you the electrical section from the manual of you don't have it.
Thanks, I’ll send you a pm..I’m now thinking maybe it is the ECU is on the blink – causing it to spark at the wrong time. I do have a spare, but as the ECU and alarm module need to be matched, I’ll have to get it reprogrammed.
Edited by dave7 on Friday 31st March 12:31
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