TVR S1 - fumes...looks like excessive blowby.

[cnprior]

Evening All,
Whilst I am not a regular contributor I am an avid reader during my lunch at work !!
I own a V6, S1 – 112,000 miles – fairly well cared for but could with some more TLC if I had the time.
This evening I went out for a ‘blast’……I noticed the tickover was a bit lumpy and I thought it might be slightly mis-firing…….anyway when pushed she still picked her heels up so I thought I was imagining it !!
Anyway, I progressed on my regular route but didn’t feel that everything was quite altogether there…..I kept thinking that I MUST adjust my valve clearances as I know they need doing as the engine sounds a bit ‘tappety’…….but I just haven’t had the time to do them yet !!
Anyway, at a set of traffic lights I noticed some ‘fumes’ coming from the bonnet……..I thought again, I might be blowing it out of proportion and decided to go the long way home before returning to ‘her indoors’ (I know you all do this so don’t lie !!).
Anyway, just ,moving away from the traffic lights the car felt ever so slightly lumpy……so I gently progressed towards a local roundabout and made a U turn back homebound. When I got home, I pulled the car into the garage and opened the bonnet………the fumes I had seen at the traffic lights were coming thick and fast……my first thoughts were that the exhaust gasket must be leaking….but the fumes seemed to be coming from the oil filler cap.
I attached two videos, the first one shows the fumes (it is difficult to see though) with the oil filler cap in place….but then I took off the oil filler cap as it looked as though the fumes are coming from the filler cap and took another video to show you all.
The blowby, fumes look extreme to me and I was wondering if this could be caused by excessive tappet clearances as they definitely need adjusting…..the other thought I have is the oil breather system…….has anyone cleaned this out and is there a picture which could be sent advising which pipes to clean out?
My other question is whether you think the engine sounds (listen to the video) unhealthy……is this just tappets needing adjusting or something more serious in your expert opinions?
Looking forward to hearing your opinions !!!!!
Regards,
Chris
P.S - I can't upload the video for some reason....can someone give me instructions please?

[cnprior]

Thanks !!

Videos now uploaded to:-

http://youtu.be/069jJ8llO8I
http://youtu.be/XnsPn9spSfc

Thanks - Chris

[cnprior]

Oil and water were fine, oil level ok.......video 1 & 2 were taken on different devices-iPad and iPhone.
I do have a weeping radiator but this is topped up and checked every week,

[cnprior]

Hello - thanks for the advice so far. I've just being reading about compression tests and what kit I need. Has anyone done one on their V6? Did you disable the fuel injection system? If so how please....is there a fuse number that needs to be disconnected?

If anyone has a step by step guide it would be appreciated.

Many Thanks for your help thus far.

Chris

[cnprior]

Hello All – I know this post is nearly a year old – but lot’s happened since the original post!
I decided that I needed more room to work on the TVR properly….therefore having saved up for nearly 8 years I finally submitted building plans drafted by me to the council and got refused !.....So had to fork out for a professional architect and eventually got them passed and built a bigger garage !!

Now got the space, so back to the task at hand !
I want to do a compression test on the V6 2.8Litre S1 as suggested below…..I bought a Sealey compression tester, and have an assistant coming tomorrow night to help me – but wanted to write down what I am planning to do for your guidance and input…..bear with me !

Compression Test instructions suggest:-
1) Run up car to normal temperature
2) Stop engine and disconnect ignition system (greyMrJ – suggests removing LT wires…..these are the two going to the coil –right?......I had also thought of removing the HT lead from the coil to the distributor…..to make sure there are no sparks at all – thoughts please?
3) Instructions don’t mention anything about isolating the fuel system (although other web articles do say to do this)……greymrj – suggests don’t bother…….any other thoughts?
4) Remove spark plugs completely
5) Screw in compression tester
6) Remove air filter
7) Compression tester instructions then say “set the throttle plates to the wide open position……..I interpret this as “get an assistant to crank over the engine whilst having his foot flat to the floor” – can someone confirm this is what it means please !
8) Crank engine for 5 strokes – recording values
9) Repeat test
10) Unscrew adaptor and move to the next cylinder
It’s been a long time waiting for the build to be finished and to get the chance to work on my car again – Very Exciting !
Look forward to hearing from you.

Regards,

Chris

[cnprior]

Hello All,

Well - an interesting evening.

Warmed car up to normal temperature. Discnnected ignition and removed spark plugs.

Fitted compression tester and got the following readings:-

Viewed from the front of the vehicle - Left Hand Bank of 3 cylinders:-
Cylinder 1 - 140 PSI
Cylinder 2 - 130 PSI
Cylinder 3 - 135 PSI

Viewed from the front of the vehicle - Right Hand Bank of 3 cylinders:-
Cylinder 4 - 120 PSI
Cylinder 5 - 40 PSI
Cylinder 6 - 95 PSI

So it looks bad for the right hand bank........my next course of action would be to adjust the rockers and see if this had any effect?

If not, then I would remove the right hand head of the engine......

Advice appreciated.......Many Thanks !!

Regards,

Chris

[cnprior]

Hello & Thanks for replies so far….progress painfully slow….but we have two young beautiful girls and its hard to get time in the garage….sure you’ve been there at some point !
Right…..So I agree with taking the Right hand head off for cylinders 4,5 & 6….but am still interested to see if checking and adjusting valve clearances would make any difference.
So, got out the Heath Bible (Blooming good read !)…..and it says “initially set the crankshaft pulley with the mark to the ‘O’ mark on the timing cover.”
Well, if it wasn’t bad enough moving the crank pulley bolt (awkward to get at….ended up using a 3/8 torque wrench and long hex head socket……is the mark on the crankshaft pulley like a triangle cut out (a notch?)…….shown at the 6 o clock position in the attached photo?




If this is ‘the notch’ on the crankshaft damper……where is the ‘O’ mark on the timing cover? as I cannot see this for looking and thought one of you guys might have a diagram or photo to help me please?
I’ve looked at a couple of explanations for setting the tappets, but if anyone has some tips on doing this (don’t mind the long way, but I want it to be right….if you get my drift- I’m a slow perfectionist !!) – it would be appreciated.
Last question….the book talks about making chalk marks at 120 degrees…….do you think these notches on the crankshaft pulley are there designed to do the same thing as they look very much like 120 degrees between spacing to me?



Thanks,

Chris

[cnprior]

Just trying to remove cylinder head on 4,5&6 side (LHS viewed from drivers side)......all exhaust bolts out easy, cylinder head bolts out - but blooming tight !!
Daft question- but can cylinder head be removed without removing the large Aluminium inlet manifold......I am guessing not !!

Thanks,

Chris

[cnprior]

Hello Again,

Head off at last !

Worryingly, Gasket seems in good condition. Looks to be no huge indication of head gasket failure between cylinders 5&6.....valves look OK - but carburised to some extent.

Cylinder bores do look worn (there is a ridge for about 10mm depthdown the bore)....but no stark difference between cylinder 4,5 & 6.

Next steps.....I was going to clean up the gasked (as it has some coolant on it).......and have a really good look at it to see if I can find any hint of head gasket failure.
))
My other intention would be measure the bore for wear (but haven't got the kit at the minute).

Looking for suggestions please......much appreciated !!

Regards,

Chris

[cnprior]

Hello All,

Bit of time on the car today.

Checked the cylinder head gasket for signs of leaking between cylinders.....but cannot see any evidence.

I then turned the head upside down and replaced the spark plugs. I then poured petrol into the combustion chamber in the head. The petrol did not move for a good 10 minutes..........I think it went down more through evaporation than valve seat leakage. With pressures as low as 40 psi I expected the petrol to go down quickly.

Would you still strip the head down to check for loose valves in the guides........or turn attention to the block?

Help and advice greatly received !!

Thanks,

Chris

[cnprior]

Hello guys,

Update: checked the bores, and there were signs of wear.....so I decided to buy a replacement engine and swap them over.
We'll I couldn't find a 2.8 easily local but did manage to pick up a 2.9 24 valve !

Going to be a steep learning curve I think.

Bought an engine hoist........first question is what do you guys use for lifting engines out these days.....chains or slings?
Sling looks to cause less damage and is portable more easily- and a lot cheaper than chain.....but chain will last a lifetime?

Opinions and buying recommendations please.

I will post a few pics next for interest.......I know you all like a good picture or two and a novice making a fool of himself !!

[cnprior]

Hello Chaps,

Thanks for the posts...really appreciate your feedback, encouragement and also wise words of caution !!
Posts will be a bit slow due to young kids and a lot of travel with work....but this is meant to be a hobby for me - and as such family comes first and garage second !!

However progress so far:-

I've pulled out the 2.8 engine....would have liked to have rebuilt this with a replacement as MrGrey suggested...but simply could not get hold of one at the right money. Agree with everything that has been written about the Cosworth engine.......I know they are expensive - as I had a 2WD YBB Sierra a few years ago (when a young lad !).....sort of feel it is like the younger Cosworths big brother and hopefully will make the right noises to the now grown up 'Big Kid'.

So I pulled out the engine, few pics attached for interest.....one of the problems after layup last winter during garage construction was the clutch - could not engage gear...funnily enough it was as I thought rusted to the flywheel and it was 'badly rusted'...see pictures.

I will sell the 2.8 engine to a good home with all ancillaries and connections......if anyone is interested please contact me.....I would like it to go to a good home that can help another TVR enthusiast.

Enjoy the pictures......next update soon to follow.

[cnprior]