Distributor 2.9 V6
Discussion
Not posted on here for a while, but looks like my luck has run out!
Bad day yesterday, scraped the wing reversing out of garage, scraped the scoop on a kerb at Morrisons, then to end the trip, engine started running rough when I got home!
The idle suddenly went up and down like engine was only firing on 4 or 5 cylinders. So took car out for a run without the wife, and all was well for about half an hour then engine suddenly started to 'miss' intermittently again. for a few minutes.
Too depressed to look at it yesterday so had a quick look today at the obvious things. Unfortunately after checking rotor, and replacing dizzy cap, I noticed that one of the lugs on the distributor was broken. The lug has previously been 'repaired' by my mechanic using some sort of metal putty, but I knew it would not last when I last screwed cap on.
So, at the moment car is idling ok, but looks like I am going to need a replacement distributor this time, before I can give it a proper test. Has anyone got a spare for sale or can offer any advice? I haven't spoken to any breakers yet, but I guess these will be rare now.
Thanks
Bad day yesterday, scraped the wing reversing out of garage, scraped the scoop on a kerb at Morrisons, then to end the trip, engine started running rough when I got home!
The idle suddenly went up and down like engine was only firing on 4 or 5 cylinders. So took car out for a run without the wife, and all was well for about half an hour then engine suddenly started to 'miss' intermittently again. for a few minutes.
Too depressed to look at it yesterday so had a quick look today at the obvious things. Unfortunately after checking rotor, and replacing dizzy cap, I noticed that one of the lugs on the distributor was broken. The lug has previously been 'repaired' by my mechanic using some sort of metal putty, but I knew it would not last when I last screwed cap on.
So, at the moment car is idling ok, but looks like I am going to need a replacement distributor this time, before I can give it a proper test. Has anyone got a spare for sale or can offer any advice? I haven't spoken to any breakers yet, but I guess these will be rare now.
Thanks
Good morning All, I am unfortunately becoming a regular poster of late!
Having finally got car back from mechanic last week, oil leaks sorted, replacement dizzy installed (thanks Mike), new fan belt, radiator cap, etc, etc...... eagerly jumped into the car this morning to travel to work, and engine won't fire!
First time it has not started since I got it. I'm starting to lose faith. Car was fine at weekend, did a couple of trips, plus put a few miles on, no problem whatsoever.
So, only item in ignition circuit that I haven't replaced is the coil. Other than that, I am looking at wiring.
Is a coil likely to just fail (noting my earlier post about occasional misfire)? Don't want to buy a coil for no reason. Is there a simple check you can do on the coil (I have a multi-meter)?
It's going to drag in work today....................................
Having finally got car back from mechanic last week, oil leaks sorted, replacement dizzy installed (thanks Mike), new fan belt, radiator cap, etc, etc...... eagerly jumped into the car this morning to travel to work, and engine won't fire!
First time it has not started since I got it. I'm starting to lose faith. Car was fine at weekend, did a couple of trips, plus put a few miles on, no problem whatsoever.
So, only item in ignition circuit that I haven't replaced is the coil. Other than that, I am looking at wiring.
Is a coil likely to just fail (noting my earlier post about occasional misfire)? Don't want to buy a coil for no reason. Is there a simple check you can do on the coil (I have a multi-meter)?
It's going to drag in work today....................................
Hmmmmm, my lack of experience working on cars is starting to frustrate me.
Taking the advice in turn:
1. You're getting a spark. Was on my own today so nobody to turn engine over while holding HT to chassis, however I have put a new coil on, and checked 12V across terminals, so imobiliser ruled out. Do I still need to do HT to chassis check?
2. The yellow connector. Looks like I haven't got one. After removing a half mile of insulation tape, found large chocolate block instead. No signs of burning or loose wires.
3. The ignition module on the side of the distributor. I presume dizzy needs to come out to change this. Is there any way of confirming this is problem without just swapping it?
Have also checked all fuses and relays, wiring (where possible) rotor arm and dizzy cap. All look ok.
If I have to get a new ignition module, anyone got a Part No.?
Thanks
Taking the advice in turn:
1. You're getting a spark. Was on my own today so nobody to turn engine over while holding HT to chassis, however I have put a new coil on, and checked 12V across terminals, so imobiliser ruled out. Do I still need to do HT to chassis check?
2. The yellow connector. Looks like I haven't got one. After removing a half mile of insulation tape, found large chocolate block instead. No signs of burning or loose wires.
3. The ignition module on the side of the distributor. I presume dizzy needs to come out to change this. Is there any way of confirming this is problem without just swapping it?
Have also checked all fuses and relays, wiring (where possible) rotor arm and dizzy cap. All look ok.
If I have to get a new ignition module, anyone got a Part No.?
Thanks
Well, finally got the mechanic round to my house to investigate starting issue.
- good spark off manin lead from coil
- good spark at spark plugs
- some fuel pressure in fuel line to gallery
- whilst checking signals to injectors, the damn thing suddenly decided it would start!
So after some discussion and further tests, conclusion is that problem might be a sticking fuel pump relay (I'll replace it when I get a spare) or worst case, bad wiring/joint somewhere! However, whilst car is starting ok, impossible to investigate.
So, been out today for a few test runs. Drives ok, and starts first time just like it always used to. I guess I will just have to hope that swapping the relay solves the mystery.
Time will tell!
Thanks for all the advice.
Graham
- good spark off manin lead from coil
- good spark at spark plugs
- some fuel pressure in fuel line to gallery
- whilst checking signals to injectors, the damn thing suddenly decided it would start!
So after some discussion and further tests, conclusion is that problem might be a sticking fuel pump relay (I'll replace it when I get a spare) or worst case, bad wiring/joint somewhere! However, whilst car is starting ok, impossible to investigate.
So, been out today for a few test runs. Drives ok, and starts first time just like it always used to. I guess I will just have to hope that swapping the relay solves the mystery.
Time will tell!
Thanks for all the advice.
Graham
And so it continues.......
Car wouldn't start on Sunday morning, so read the Bible for guidance before forking out again for another home visit by the mechanic.
The problem has been narrowed down to fuel pump does not spark into life.
According to Bible, there are 4 likely causes:
1. Immobiliser - I removed it today (as it annoyed me anyway). No joy
2. Fuse - the 7.5 amp fuse for fuel pump is definitely ok
3. Relay - I replaced fuel pump relay with a new ford part. No joy (there is another relay (fuel injectors) nearby, but I haven't replaced that one.
4. Inertia switch Diode - checked in place and good connections (to other relay block)
The only other advice was to check pin 2 from ECU connector to Ground, however when I looked at mine, it is not as per the bible, (cable enters block from centre). Anyway there is no wire leading to pin 2.
Checked terminals on pump with ignition On, NO voltage.
So, power is not getting to pump somehow.
I think I may have reached the limit of my amateur electrician skills, unless someone thinks I have missed something obvious?????
I think I will have to bite the bullet and get an auto electrician to pay me a visit. I'm feeling depressed!
Car wouldn't start on Sunday morning, so read the Bible for guidance before forking out again for another home visit by the mechanic.
The problem has been narrowed down to fuel pump does not spark into life.
According to Bible, there are 4 likely causes:
1. Immobiliser - I removed it today (as it annoyed me anyway). No joy
2. Fuse - the 7.5 amp fuse for fuel pump is definitely ok
3. Relay - I replaced fuel pump relay with a new ford part. No joy (there is another relay (fuel injectors) nearby, but I haven't replaced that one.
4. Inertia switch Diode - checked in place and good connections (to other relay block)
The only other advice was to check pin 2 from ECU connector to Ground, however when I looked at mine, it is not as per the bible, (cable enters block from centre). Anyway there is no wire leading to pin 2.
Checked terminals on pump with ignition On, NO voltage.
So, power is not getting to pump somehow.
I think I may have reached the limit of my amateur electrician skills, unless someone thinks I have missed something obvious?????
I think I will have to bite the bullet and get an auto electrician to pay me a visit. I'm feeling depressed!
Long time no speak S owners. Finally found the enthusiasm to have a look at the S3 having SORN'd it for the first time ever after the tax ran out in Nov.
I have invested in a new (good quality) soldering iron, crocodile clips, fly leads, and even took the Bible wiring diagrams to work to blow them up (as my eyesight is getting old!). But before I began my electrical investigation, I thought I would just try one more wiggle teat (sure I did this months ago).
Grabbed the harness near to offside rocker, then coil wiring, then removed and installed the connector on the (I think it's the) temp sensor at rear of the plenum. Switched the ignition on, and hey presto, fuel pump priming noise!!!
A few coughs and splutters after 4 months untouched and IT LIVES!!!!
I was so happy that it was running, I just let it warm up, and charge the battery, which was near to flat.
Tomorrow, I will see if I can cause it to fail by wiggling the wiring as I really need to confirm the actual problem.
Only downer was that I noticed a leak from rad, once fully hot, but that sort of repair is within my comfort zone, so not concerned. Plenty of time before spring to get that looked at.
I guess I can start putting all of the wiring in passenger footwell back together now, as I have removed all cable ties, etc. etc.
So happy, it's like finding a long lost friend.
I have invested in a new (good quality) soldering iron, crocodile clips, fly leads, and even took the Bible wiring diagrams to work to blow them up (as my eyesight is getting old!). But before I began my electrical investigation, I thought I would just try one more wiggle teat (sure I did this months ago).
Grabbed the harness near to offside rocker, then coil wiring, then removed and installed the connector on the (I think it's the) temp sensor at rear of the plenum. Switched the ignition on, and hey presto, fuel pump priming noise!!!
A few coughs and splutters after 4 months untouched and IT LIVES!!!!
I was so happy that it was running, I just let it warm up, and charge the battery, which was near to flat.
Tomorrow, I will see if I can cause it to fail by wiggling the wiring as I really need to confirm the actual problem.
Only downer was that I noticed a leak from rad, once fully hot, but that sort of repair is within my comfort zone, so not concerned. Plenty of time before spring to get that looked at.
I guess I can start putting all of the wiring in passenger footwell back together now, as I have removed all cable ties, etc. etc.
So happy, it's like finding a long lost friend.
"Within my comfort zone" as I am confident I can remove the rad, whereas with the wiring issue, I had no idea what to do, hence the loom in the cockpit is currently all over the place.
I may try one of those radweld type solutions (I am confident they can't do damage or there would be numerous law suits), but it seemed quite a nasty leak so may be beyond a simple fix.
If it has to be replaced/re-conditioned, so be it. Spending money on my favourite Toy is just accepted as normal now by my wife!
I may try one of those radweld type solutions (I am confident they can't do damage or there would be numerous law suits), but it seemed quite a nasty leak so may be beyond a simple fix.
If it has to be replaced/re-conditioned, so be it. Spending money on my favourite Toy is just accepted as normal now by my wife!
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