Trouble Getting it Up
Discussion
My first winter project is to try and make the driver's window go up a bit quicker. I've connected up a 12v power supply in the hope the problem might have been a power loss somewhere but it's not much better. So, it looks like I'll have to strip out the motor/winder assembly and lubricate everything and if that fails, replace the motor with the Peugeot part mentioned in a thread here a few weeks ago. Can someone who has done this give me a 1,2,3 step approach to getting the bits out please? Before I start stripping out though, what is the best thing to spray the channel rubbers with? Thanks in advance chaps 
Oldred_V8S said:
What is the condition of the window runners? Do they have any felt left on them or are the windows running on the nice grippy rubber....
I've removed all the rubber and plastic sheeting to get a good look at the runners and, yes they are knackered. I've got the Wollies part number somewhere so I'll order some on Monday. It looks like I'm going to have to do the job properly ie strip the whole assembly out and clean it and then replace the runners. Any suggestion on a step by step guide? I'd much rather learn from someone else's mistakes rather than mine 
Oldred_V8S said:
.... it won't get you a happy ending.
Is that what this is for?Tomorrow's little job will b e to remove the window & frame. It looks like the lifter mechanism id held to the inner skin of the door in three places. Do I need to remove the glass first? And do I need to remove the front frame? If so, do I need to remove the triangular shaped bit that's attached to the front of the door to get the frame out? Thanks.
phillpot said:
..frame can stay in..Detach glass from mechanism (2 x 6mm bolts) and wiggle out, might have to loosen or remove rear runner? Motor and associated mechanism should then come out somehow?
Thanks Phillpot. It looks like I can change the runner in the front frame insitu so hopefully I won't need to disturb it.The motor and window are out. What a fiddle - another 4-handed job! At the risk of starting a "pressure Cap" debate here's a couple of questions for you.
In this picture you can see that the flexible thingy which does the lifting is wire wound around what looks like a fibre brush. Q1. would this be better lubricated with thick oil or grease? Q2. as you can see the lifter plate (the bit which attaches to the window runs on plastic bushes which run in the steel track; what provides best lubrication in plastic to metal contact.
Here's another picture showing the "flexible thingy" in its track and the gear box.
With the window removed the lifter flies up and down with no sticking. With the gearbox removed the motor turns smoothly and strongly with no hesitation or sticking. It's a Bosch part so you'd imagine it was made to work reliably for a long time. Hopefully new runners and the right lube will sort the problem.
Here's a close up of the motor in case anyone is trying to find the part number.
It does strike me as odd that there is no electric cut-out when the window reaches the up and down limits of its travel. Isn't the circuit over-loaded if the switch isn't released quickly enough? How hard would it be to make a cut out? I was thinking of something which worked on current load rather than fiddling about with micro switches.
In this picture you can see that the flexible thingy which does the lifting is wire wound around what looks like a fibre brush. Q1. would this be better lubricated with thick oil or grease? Q2. as you can see the lifter plate (the bit which attaches to the window runs on plastic bushes which run in the steel track; what provides best lubrication in plastic to metal contact.
Here's another picture showing the "flexible thingy" in its track and the gear box.
With the window removed the lifter flies up and down with no sticking. With the gearbox removed the motor turns smoothly and strongly with no hesitation or sticking. It's a Bosch part so you'd imagine it was made to work reliably for a long time. Hopefully new runners and the right lube will sort the problem.
Here's a close up of the motor in case anyone is trying to find the part number.
It does strike me as odd that there is no electric cut-out when the window reaches the up and down limits of its travel. Isn't the circuit over-loaded if the switch isn't released quickly enough? How hard would it be to make a cut out? I was thinking of something which worked on current load rather than fiddling about with micro switches.
Just refitted the window and lifter after fitting new seals ( this stuff) and thoroughly greasing the lifter assembly. No problem getting it up now
Oldred_V8S said:
I think if there was a cut-out based on current loading, very few people would have working windows. Sticky motors, thick old grease and worn runner rubbers would be tripping the cut-out all the time.
Good point. I won't bother with that then I've noticed the central locking servos are held in with countersunk self-tapping wood screws and so wobble about quite a bit. These are now being replaced with machine screws and nylocks
Gassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff