They Said it Couldn't be Done...
Discussion
Well, they may still be right but looking at how the bits are fitting together it might just be possible. This is a section from an MGB folding hood and I can make it fit and tilt.
To move on to the next step I need two scrap targa panels (to make the header rail) and the moulding which fits inside the rear seam on the standard hood. Anyone got some scrap bits kicking about?
To move on to the next step I need two scrap targa panels (to make the header rail) and the moulding which fits inside the rear seam on the standard hood. Anyone got some scrap bits kicking about?
mep12345 said:
I would consider using a section of 2x1 or 4x2 wood,...... Once done can also then be used to make a mould for the fibreglass final product
That's plan 'B', although I was going to use marine ply. I'm waiting for the local wood yard to have some off-cuts because it's something like £50 for an 8' x 4' sheet.TvrJohn said:
....Consider making these headers, or templates from steel strip following the profiles
Good idea, but beyond my skills I'm afraid. I've never done any glass fibre moulding either.I've worked out how to make a new upright bar and which part of the MGB frame to keep and bolted them together. I now need to put the driver's window back in to get the spacing correct. So, at the moment anyway, it's still looking more possible than not. The big question mark at the moment though is how low will the assembly sit once it's folded back.
Here is a Mazda MX5 hood frame in the car.
The key dimensions appear to be about right ie width, height and "reach" from the main hoop to the top of the screen and it does fold quite neatly onto the parcel shelf. However the design of the seat belt mounting posts will always make this part of the fit a compromise.
The problems are:
1. Getting the pivot point in the correct place.
2. Fabricating the header rail (yes still stuck on this one, lots of complicated curves).
3. Finding the moulding to attach the hood to the body (now I've got this off I can see it won't
be possible to make one from layers of thin ply because of its shape).
This does look a more practical solution than the MGB one I was trying earlier.
The key dimensions appear to be about right ie width, height and "reach" from the main hoop to the top of the screen and it does fold quite neatly onto the parcel shelf. However the design of the seat belt mounting posts will always make this part of the fit a compromise.
The problems are:
1. Getting the pivot point in the correct place.
2. Fabricating the header rail (yes still stuck on this one, lots of complicated curves).
3. Finding the moulding to attach the hood to the body (now I've got this off I can see it won't
be possible to make one from layers of thin ply because of its shape).
This does look a more practical solution than the MGB one I was trying earlier.
I've re-used the Mazda pivots, but reversed the sides, and moved the pivot point
So now it goes up...
...and folds neatly back down again...
Now the appeal for help! Can anyone out there who is clever with glass fibre make me a continuous header rail, or make a mould so I can have a go at layering it up myself?
Thanks in advance.
So now it goes up...
...and folds neatly back down again...
Now the appeal for help! Can anyone out there who is clever with glass fibre make me a continuous header rail, or make a mould so I can have a go at layering it up myself?
Thanks in advance.
Well Santa has let me down badly! Bas
rd! I'll bet he's French. He says he's not bringing me a header rail so I'm fabricating one by laminating bits of plywood....
That's about all I can do now until the weekend because I'm asuming the neighbours probably wouldn't appreciate the sound of power tools over Christmas and the lady next door makes amazing fruit cake so I'm not jepordising that for anything. Yes, even my TVR!
Happy Christmas every one!
PS the very nice lady at Woolies has been incredibly helpful by sending me samples of door and window seals and I can thoroughly recommend them if you need anything like that.
rd! I'll bet he's French. He says he's not bringing me a header rail so I'm fabricating one by laminating bits of plywood....That's about all I can do now until the weekend because I'm asuming the neighbours probably wouldn't appreciate the sound of power tools over Christmas and the lady next door makes amazing fruit cake so I'm not jepordising that for anything. Yes, even my TVR!
Happy Christmas every one!
PS the very nice lady at Woolies has been incredibly helpful by sending me samples of door and window seals and I can thoroughly recommend them if you need anything like that.
A question for the glass-fibre wizards out there. Once I've got the profile I want can I cover it with a layer of GF matting just to smooth off the shape and give it a little bit of extra strength? It's going to be covered with the hood material so it doesn't have to be a mirror finish but it will have to be smooth and even so there are no unsightly lumps and bumps showing through the covering.
Thanks chaps 
I've bought some leather cloth from Dunelm to have a play with and see how I might be able to make a hood. I've still got the original heated rear screen which came with the MX5 hood so I'm wondering if it might be possible to put that in. More finishing to be done on the the header rail and painting the frame first though. The fun and games continue 
I've bought some leather cloth from Dunelm to have a play with and see how I might be able to make a hood. I've still got the original heated rear screen which came with the MX5 hood so I'm wondering if it might be possible to put that in. More finishing to be done on the the header rail and painting the frame first though. The fun and games continue magpies said:
.......will you be using the MX5 door windows ...
I didn't buy the whole car! For the time being I'm going to stick with the original mirrors because they are in good condition and were resprayed in 2011 so look pretty good. I am looking round for alternatives though for when I finally get fed up with re-tightening them or the stupid internal casting snaps (again!).For anyone new to this thread, I'm still on the look-out for the moulding which holds the rear part of the hood to the tub.
Final bit of ply laminating and sanding done now...
HELP! I followed the mixing instructions but the GF resin I put on to bond the brackets to the header is still tacky after two hours. I've tried a bit of heat using the heat-gun and it's gone off a bit but still tacky. Is this normal? Can I start layering the matting while the first coat is still tacky?
As the moment I'm using insulating tape to protect the top of the windscreen while I'm messing about getting the fitting right - see the red stuff in the photo. Does anyone have any 1" - 2" wide strips of that heavy duty transparent protective stuff left over so I can protect this edge properly once it's all done?
HELP! I followed the mixing instructions but the GF resin I put on to bond the brackets to the header is still tacky after two hours. I've tried a bit of heat using the heat-gun and it's gone off a bit but still tacky. Is this normal? Can I start layering the matting while the first coat is still tacky?
As the moment I'm using insulating tape to protect the top of the windscreen while I'm messing about getting the fitting right - see the red stuff in the photo. Does anyone have any 1" - 2" wide strips of that heavy duty transparent protective stuff left over so I can protect this edge properly once it's all done?
..phillpot said:
..Why didn't you say so, like this stuff. 
That's the stuff. I thought it was more expensive than that.mk1fan said:
........ I'll whizz her up for roof number 2 ...
Arrghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.................Had a go at glassing in the brackets which hold the header to the frame....
My first attempt at GF work so quite a rough job. I've got a lot of sanding to do tomorrow before I can put the next layer on.
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