S1 Starts but won't run
Discussion
Afternoon all,
I moved the car last week to a different position on the drive and jacked it at the front to carry out some routine stuff and maybe more importantly tucked the carpet under the glove box up slightly. When I had finished for the day I went to start up and it starts for a second with a blast from the exhaust and then just cuts out. It does this no matter how many times you try.
Battery and fuel level fine, So I decided to check the fuse box- all fuses ok but changed a couple for the engine run etc and then saw that the pink engine run relay was loose and someone had put a cable tie over it to hold in place and it had come off, thought I'd sussed it and relocated...however just the same. Then I took the relay out and it looked a little melted so ordered another and checked to make sure no obvious loose wiring. It came today so changed it but still no good.
I can't hear the fuel pump cutting in at all so Its looking like I'm going to have to get the meter out and start testing wiring before I look to change the pump or go too far.
Has anyone had a similar one to this? I was wondering whether it could be an alarm immobiliser problem (not been in use) or an inertia sensor cutting the fuel supply but don't know if the S1 even had one.
I moved the car last week to a different position on the drive and jacked it at the front to carry out some routine stuff and maybe more importantly tucked the carpet under the glove box up slightly. When I had finished for the day I went to start up and it starts for a second with a blast from the exhaust and then just cuts out. It does this no matter how many times you try.
Battery and fuel level fine, So I decided to check the fuse box- all fuses ok but changed a couple for the engine run etc and then saw that the pink engine run relay was loose and someone had put a cable tie over it to hold in place and it had come off, thought I'd sussed it and relocated...however just the same. Then I took the relay out and it looked a little melted so ordered another and checked to make sure no obvious loose wiring. It came today so changed it but still no good.
I can't hear the fuel pump cutting in at all so Its looking like I'm going to have to get the meter out and start testing wiring before I look to change the pump or go too far.
Has anyone had a similar one to this? I was wondering whether it could be an alarm immobiliser problem (not been in use) or an inertia sensor cutting the fuel supply but don't know if the S1 even had one.
glenrobbo said:
Hi Phil,
I had the same symptoms occuring, but intermittantly, for quite a while, which made it very difficult to diagnose.
First and foremost, what is the condition of your engine run / fuel pump relay base ( the bit that the pink relay plugs in to? ). If that or the wires that go to it are melted or scorched, that will need addressing, probably the reason your fuel pump isn't priming. You can easily check the pump is ok by running a feed straight from the battery positive terminal and touching onto the pump positive.
And do not assume that the replacement pink relay you have fitted is guaranteed 100% serviceable.
Secondly, are you sure that the 10 amp fuse ( j ) that feeds the warning lights, instruments and indicators hasn't blown?
Is the red alternator dash warning light illuminating when you turn on the ignition?
Fuse ( j ) supplies quite a few things via the green colour coded wires, in addition to the above, ie handbrake w/light, low brake fluid, and Cigar Lighter.
After nearly two full days of messing about behind the dash, in the footwells & under the bonnet, I managed to find the cause:
it was a 5-way adaptor socket plugged into my cig lighter socket that I use to power my satnav & phone charger. It had got wet periodically ( roofless in the rain! ) and the circuitry in it had gradually died.
Every time I plugged it in & turned the ignition on, the 10 amp fuse would blow.
The engine would fire then die every time.
My advice would be to check each circuit supplied by the green wires until you find the problem. A short on any of those could be causing the fault.
Have you got a copy of "The TVR S Series" by Steve Heath ( the Bible ) or a circuit diagram?
Hope this helps, let us know how you get on.
Glen
Hi Glen,I had the same symptoms occuring, but intermittantly, for quite a while, which made it very difficult to diagnose.
First and foremost, what is the condition of your engine run / fuel pump relay base ( the bit that the pink relay plugs in to? ). If that or the wires that go to it are melted or scorched, that will need addressing, probably the reason your fuel pump isn't priming. You can easily check the pump is ok by running a feed straight from the battery positive terminal and touching onto the pump positive.
And do not assume that the replacement pink relay you have fitted is guaranteed 100% serviceable.
Secondly, are you sure that the 10 amp fuse ( j ) that feeds the warning lights, instruments and indicators hasn't blown?
Is the red alternator dash warning light illuminating when you turn on the ignition?
Fuse ( j ) supplies quite a few things via the green colour coded wires, in addition to the above, ie handbrake w/light, low brake fluid, and Cigar Lighter.
After nearly two full days of messing about behind the dash, in the footwells & under the bonnet, I managed to find the cause:
it was a 5-way adaptor socket plugged into my cig lighter socket that I use to power my satnav & phone charger. It had got wet periodically ( roofless in the rain! ) and the circuitry in it had gradually died.
Every time I plugged it in & turned the ignition on, the 10 amp fuse would blow.
The engine would fire then die every time.
My advice would be to check each circuit supplied by the green wires until you find the problem. A short on any of those could be causing the fault.
Have you got a copy of "The TVR S Series" by Steve Heath ( the Bible ) or a circuit diagram?
Hope this helps, let us know how you get on.
Glen
How's Austin bearing up?
Well first things first I'm feeling quite sorry for myself over this
The condition of the base and wiring looks pretty good as it happens but yes it did cross my mind that the new relay may not be good...its a new old part after all.
The fuses all looked good, I changed a couple for good measure but I'll change the 10amp as well to be sure then.
Yes I've got the bible and I've spent all afternoon tracing wires from the electrical schematic, checking connections and removing insulation tape, good old TVR electrics.
I've got a couple of hours spare tomorrow afternoon so I'm going to wedge myself in the footwell again.
Cheers,
Phil.
Sorry chaps not ignoring you...its been a bit full on at work and today has been the first chance I've had to look at it and get back on here, thanks for all the advice though.
I've sorted it....I changed the pink relay again and had my daughter start it up and could hear it clicking but still same symptoms. Removed,cleaned and re-taped a load of wiring/ connections under the bonnet, removed the battery and tray while I was at it and cleaned it up and re-painted. But in the end it was a bad connection to the tacho, nothing disconnected just played about a bit. Nearly killed me mind laying upside down under the wheel especially when my leg cramped
See nothing wrong with the good old 2.8!!
I've sorted it....I changed the pink relay again and had my daughter start it up and could hear it clicking but still same symptoms. Removed,cleaned and re-taped a load of wiring/ connections under the bonnet, removed the battery and tray while I was at it and cleaned it up and re-painted. But in the end it was a bad connection to the tacho, nothing disconnected just played about a bit. Nearly killed me mind laying upside down under the wheel especially when my leg cramped
See nothing wrong with the good old 2.8!!
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