Bible section on doors
Discussion
which method is that?
Put large cloth sheet over the door jamb for protection then loosely located the hinge and hinge bracket bolts. Closed and held the door in place and used plastic packers to keep the gaps even. Stretched in and tightened the bolts using air driven ratchet.
Looks like I managed to reshape the lower rear of the doors so they don't stick out - removed 10mm on the inner part of the door.
Put large cloth sheet over the door jamb for protection then loosely located the hinge and hinge bracket bolts. Closed and held the door in place and used plastic packers to keep the gaps even. Stretched in and tightened the bolts using air driven ratchet.
Looks like I managed to reshape the lower rear of the doors so they don't stick out - removed 10mm on the inner part of the door.
Edited by magpies on Sunday 30th November 11:39
Marc C said:
My doors flare a bit at the bottom, had hoped to find a solution, all looked quite good until...
They must have all come out of the same crap mould - why didn't TVR sort that out??magpies said:
removed 10mm on the inner part of the door.
Doors have now been sent back down to the bottom of the 'to do' listphillpot said:
I cut my doors about 15mm from the skin flange and needed to cut most of the vertical and horizontal faces with a tapering slot so that I did not produce (much) stress when 'closing' and fixing the two faces together. I made tags 25mm x 10mm from 1mm steel, used some cramps to close the gap, drilled the tags and the door to take pop rivets and fixed the two together. I could then glass fibre the joint from inside the door, fill and sand the outside so the joint could not be seen.if the doors are off it is a very straight forward job....just make sure the amount of pull in has been measured every 3 to 4 inches and written on masking tape attached to the door. don't even need to respray the door - just the jamb area. There will be a company / person near you and shouldn't be expensive.
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