Trailing arm removal / reinstall

[robinlarry]

I'm considering removing my trailing arms to strip rust and repaint. The car was restored only a few years ago with a new chassis so I don't anticipate any problem with seized bolts. But before starting, I wanted to check if reinstalling shims as removed would let me avoid having to realign the rear end. This also will give me a chance to strip and repaint springs. Any thoughts?

[robinlarry]

The six allen bolts might be easier to remove than the hub nut. And the rust seems to be confined to where paint has loosened on the trailing arms.
Some great shots here for guidance:

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

[robinlarry]

Thank you Alan. This is an S1 (rear drums) so it should be straightforward. The arms are solid ... just paint chipped off and surface rust.

[robinlarry]

I assume removing the driveshaft on the wheel end would require removing the hub bolt ... correct?

[robinlarry]

Done.

Trailing arm is off. Bolts were plated but beginning to corrode. They are marked with SP on top and S on the bottom. I assume this is comparable to a grade 5 fine thread here in the states.

I also removed the drive shaft. Definitely rusted inside the tube but not terminal. I'm considering having the trailing arms powdercoated? We have a local shop that can do the work very reasonably but would I just be inviting the inevitable rust underneath? Eastwood has a two part ceramic paint I might try instead.

Edited by robinlarry on Monday 26th January 03:54

[robinlarry]

http://www.mlperformanceparts.co.uk/product/traili...

I'm not familiar with a 12.9 grade. Here in the states we have grades 5 and 8. I expect 8 would be too brittle.We also have coarse and fine threads.

I expect a fine thread grade 5 would work as well as the British source.

BTW ... any idea what the small plastic pop-out piece is on the backing plate?

Edited by robinlarry on Monday 26th January 18:19

[robinlarry]

No. It's a small round piece. About 180 degrees from that.

Is there a good source for a full set of bolts with Steve Heath out of business? Shipping is the big expense.

[robinlarry]

That's it. Still available anywhere?

Were the original trailing arm and shock bolts imperial or metric? I can find 12.9 through the internet but the parts list shows 9/16" rather than 14.5 or 15 mm dia.

Here's a grade 9 9/16 x 4.5 supplier:

http://www.pacificcustoms.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Scr...

Edited by robinlarry on Monday 26th January 23:35

[robinlarry]

[Your S will be a "mish mash" of imperial and metric!]

It sounds like that's how TVR built it in the first place.

[robinlarry]

So now I have to reinstall the trailing arm,drive shaft, and spare tire to attempt to remove the d### hub nut. It would have been a lot easier when I had the brakes installed. (Yes, it turns clockwise on the RH side).

[robinlarry]

I suppose you don't mean south west Ohio.

[robinlarry]

All apart. Special thanks to Phillpot for his clever suggestion. New hub nuts and bearings in the post.