Working on Soft Top Again
Discussion
Since I am waiting for the Painter to come back from his jolly's I thought I would take the soft top out of moth balls, spent a bit of time looking at was around and it would need to be an easy fit. Found a MGB top from a 1971, new the header rail would not fit as I had a friend with one and we looked at the shape, Will make one from Fiberglas and mould in all the fixing points.
The mounting is with 3 screws and just fits in the same place as the S. It's 75 mm narrower than the existing fixing points on the S. so will have to extend the 3 rails in a jig. Going to use the MGB fixing method with lift the dot and hooks. This way I can fit a glass window (if I find one the right shape).
Alan
[url]
|http://thumbsnap.com/rBgIvmkw[/url]
The mounting is with 3 screws and just fits in the same place as the S. It's 75 mm narrower than the existing fixing points on the S. so will have to extend the 3 rails in a jig. Going to use the MGB fixing method with lift the dot and hooks. This way I can fit a glass window (if I find one the right shape).
Alan
[url]
|http://thumbsnap.com/rBgIvmkw[/url]Hi Joe
My shock towers are 4" shorter than normal with the shocks I have on.Should be able to make a pocket for the rail to sit in, the wheel arch is double skin so should be ok.
Will be making a 2 part mould for the header rail starting next month.
On the glass, as the mgb uses lift the dot I can un hook the rear flap so it fits down the back.
If you have any of the top rails, yes please to extend mine as it's not round.
Alan
My shock towers are 4" shorter than normal with the shocks I have on.Should be able to make a pocket for the rail to sit in, the wheel arch is double skin so should be ok.
Will be making a 2 part mould for the header rail starting next month.
On the glass, as the mgb uses lift the dot I can un hook the rear flap so it fits down the back.
If you have any of the top rails, yes please to extend mine as it's not round.
Alan
Hi Joe
Going to extend the rear rail to where it meets the door, then going to cover it to match the inertia trim, use it as a trim between the paint and carpet, might even sew some velcro onto the end. Have to use the lift the dot so the window will drop down in front off the base speakers.
Alan
Going to extend the rear rail to where it meets the door, then going to cover it to match the inertia trim, use it as a trim between the paint and carpet, might even sew some velcro onto the end. Have to use the lift the dot so the window will drop down in front off the base speakers.
Alan
Hi Joe
Got one of those rear view mirrors with light in, going to do some kind off pull, the header has to sit on the TVR seal, the MGB is a seal in the header rail, The header rail needs to be thin for the TVR. Was thinking of setting up the 2 targa tops up and molding off them with a top and bottom mould then, I can put ally strips in where I need to so I can drill and tap for the fixings. clamp it up with some resin glass mix.
Alan
Got one of those rear view mirrors with light in, going to do some kind off pull, the header has to sit on the TVR seal, the MGB is a seal in the header rail, The header rail needs to be thin for the TVR. Was thinking of setting up the 2 targa tops up and molding off them with a top and bottom mould then, I can put ally strips in where I need to so I can drill and tap for the fixings. clamp it up with some resin glass mix.
Alan
Hi Joe
Found my window, don't know whot it's off but it fits quite nice, slips down in front of the base speekers. Thats why I have to use the lift the dot fixings. The rear mounting strip fall 8" short of the end where it meets the door, I will cover this to match the interia (leather) and sew in some velcro, have a set of MGB fixinfs for the side and rear so they should be ok.
I could use some stainless for the header rail mounts.
I think I will set up the roof on the car and just mask up
Alan
Found my window, don't know whot it's off but it fits quite nice, slips down in front of the base speekers. Thats why I have to use the lift the dot fixings. The rear mounting strip fall 8" short of the end where it meets the door, I will cover this to match the interia (leather) and sew in some velcro, have a set of MGB fixinfs for the side and rear so they should be ok.
I could use some stainless for the header rail mounts.
I think I will set up the roof on the car and just mask up
Alan
Edited by Alan Whitaker on Tuesday 17th February 19:27
I have a MX 5 old frame, was going to cut the header off, it looked about right on length but curved 30 mm high in the middle, straight line across the top and the TVR kicks in at the ends and drops about 30mm where it meets the door, that's where the MX 5 header won't fit or will it?. no time this weekend to look Painting the bathroom.
Alan
quick PS Joe, I have a V8 as well
Alan
quick PS Joe, I have a V8 as well
Edited by Alan Whitaker on Saturday 21st February 13:45
Hi Joe
Done a bit of work with the MX 5 header rail, flattened it out by cutting slots in the underside, it now fits the S top window line, cut back the ends to follow the S curves (as you say not the same on each side). Just need to extend the ends to fit flush with the door top. No gas so will do it next week. May just even out the Fiberglas on the top rail, it also sits onto the existing S seal.
See what you think,
Alan
[url]
|http://thumbsnap.com/QsC7mojI[/url]
Will still be able to use the pull
Done a bit of work with the MX 5 header rail, flattened it out by cutting slots in the underside, it now fits the S top window line, cut back the ends to follow the S curves (as you say not the same on each side). Just need to extend the ends to fit flush with the door top. No gas so will do it next week. May just even out the Fiberglas on the top rail, it also sits onto the existing S seal.
See what you think,
Alan
[url]
|http://thumbsnap.com/QsC7mojI[/url]Will still be able to use the pull
Hi All
Spent 2 hours welding up the header rail, stop start as the metal is very thin and I only have 1.2 mm wire and a rather large Mig, on it's lowest setting and it's a bit to high.
Sanded down today and give it a coat of primer to stop it rusting, a couple of stress dints due to bending but I think they will pull out.
After welding
After Sanding
Now it's back to some body filling and sanding.
Alan
Spent 2 hours welding up the header rail, stop start as the metal is very thin and I only have 1.2 mm wire and a rather large Mig, on it's lowest setting and it's a bit to high.
Sanded down today and give it a coat of primer to stop it rusting, a couple of stress dints due to bending but I think they will pull out.
After welding
After Sanding
Now it's back to some body filling and sanding.
Alan
Hi All
Got the soft top frame some where near, need to make a new mounting plate and weld the nuts on for the frame mount, have had to cut a bit of body out so I can get in to fabricate a new pocket for the frame arms to drop into. Looks a bit drastic but it will all get glassed back in with just a 50 mm pocket to drop into, still 4" to the tyres so should be ok.
Alan
Need to drop the mount about 30mm, Glass a good fit
Glass fits easy behind the roll bar
Had to remove a big piece to ba able to fit a new pocket in
Most of the piece will Fiberglass back in
Lots of side room between the roll bar and the frame
Joe Got the webbing and all the clamps, will send a picture to make sure it's what you need
Got the soft top frame some where near, need to make a new mounting plate and weld the nuts on for the frame mount, have had to cut a bit of body out so I can get in to fabricate a new pocket for the frame arms to drop into. Looks a bit drastic but it will all get glassed back in with just a 50 mm pocket to drop into, still 4" to the tyres so should be ok.
Alan
Need to drop the mount about 30mm, Glass a good fit
Glass fits easy behind the roll bar
Had to remove a big piece to ba able to fit a new pocket in
Most of the piece will Fiberglass back in
Lots of side room between the roll bar and the frame
Joe Got the webbing and all the clamps, will send a picture to make sure it's what you need
Hi All
There is quite a bit of room behind the Roll Cage, I did the Roll Cage with this in mind. I have 2 repair pieces coming from a MGB specialist, these are the inner panels with the mounting fixings welded in, will cut them to fit the TVR and re weld some structure back into the panels so it goes behind the door locks and bolts in with the door locks, a bit of glass work and done.
Alan
There is quite a bit of room behind the Roll Cage, I did the Roll Cage with this in mind. I have 2 repair pieces coming from a MGB specialist, these are the inner panels with the mounting fixings welded in, will cut them to fit the TVR and re weld some structure back into the panels so it goes behind the door locks and bolts in with the door locks, a bit of glass work and done.
Alan
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