Rear brake cylinders - fluid in boots, OK?
Discussion
Hi all,
My brake woes are continuing and fatigue is settling in. HELP ME I'm trapped in s series hell. A short recap on the last 10 months...
1) Replaced front hoses, callipers and pads
2) Could n't bleed the brakes
3) Found the rear brake cylinders were leaking. Replaced rear brake cylinders.
4) Brakes still not 100%
5) Master cylinder reconditioned with stainless sleeve and new seals. Servo professionally tested and found to be working fine.
6) Could n't bleed the brakes.
7) Small dribble of fluid between M/C and servo.
8) Master cylinder sent back and tested up to 700psi. Seals all fine.
9) Refited M/C only connected front brakes. Bleed M/C and front brakes. Test drove car (private road). Brakes perfect.
Today: tightened up a couple of the rear fittings. Pulled back dust boots on rear brake cylinders...one shows slight evidence of weeping (see pic), my question is am I going to have to change this again after only 6 months or is a tiny amount of leakage expected? If I am going to have to change it now is a good time because the rears are disconnected.
Thanks,
Ralph
My brake woes are continuing and fatigue is settling in. HELP ME I'm trapped in s series hell. A short recap on the last 10 months...
1) Replaced front hoses, callipers and pads
2) Could n't bleed the brakes
3) Found the rear brake cylinders were leaking. Replaced rear brake cylinders.
4) Brakes still not 100%
5) Master cylinder reconditioned with stainless sleeve and new seals. Servo professionally tested and found to be working fine.
6) Could n't bleed the brakes.
7) Small dribble of fluid between M/C and servo.
8) Master cylinder sent back and tested up to 700psi. Seals all fine.
9) Refited M/C only connected front brakes. Bleed M/C and front brakes. Test drove car (private road). Brakes perfect.
Today: tightened up a couple of the rear fittings. Pulled back dust boots on rear brake cylinders...one shows slight evidence of weeping (see pic), my question is am I going to have to change this again after only 6 months or is a tiny amount of leakage expected? If I am going to have to change it now is a good time because the rears are disconnected.
Thanks,
Ralph
Thanks for the advice. To answer the questions:
- when I was having probes bleeding the brakes for the second time I peeled back the boots on the wheel cylinders and they were dry - the fluid has appeared in the last month/30 miles.
- I have used quite a bit of brake fluid with all the bleeding - probably about 6L - all old fluid has been dumped.
- Dirt ingress is always possible, I can't rule it out, however I do work in the pharma industry and frequently find that my definition of clean is higher than most pro garages.
- Brake pressure regulator is a possibility. After I've changed the wheel cylinder I'll investigate further.
- I use an Ezi-bled for bleeding but usually get a assistant to push the pedal as well.
Thanks again.
Ralph
- when I was having probes bleeding the brakes for the second time I peeled back the boots on the wheel cylinders and they were dry - the fluid has appeared in the last month/30 miles.
- I have used quite a bit of brake fluid with all the bleeding - probably about 6L - all old fluid has been dumped.
- Dirt ingress is always possible, I can't rule it out, however I do work in the pharma industry and frequently find that my definition of clean is higher than most pro garages.
- Brake pressure regulator is a possibility. After I've changed the wheel cylinder I'll investigate further.
- I use an Ezi-bled for bleeding but usually get a assistant to push the pedal as well.
Thanks again.
Ralph
An update:
1) changed the dodgey wheel cylinder.
2) whilst doing this I found that the male Union going into the back of the wheel cylinder had a tiny crack in it. Made up a new piece of pipe with new unions.
3) bled the rear pressure regulator by putting a nipple in the top, bleeding and then removing the nipple. Worked well - I recommend this method.
4) reconnected rear brakes and bled through. Braking system now seems normal...
Thanks to all for the advice.
Ralph
1) changed the dodgey wheel cylinder.
2) whilst doing this I found that the male Union going into the back of the wheel cylinder had a tiny crack in it. Made up a new piece of pipe with new unions.
3) bled the rear pressure regulator by putting a nipple in the top, bleeding and then removing the nipple. Worked well - I recommend this method.
4) reconnected rear brakes and bled through. Braking system now seems normal...
Thanks to all for the advice.
Ralph
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