Discussion
I'm setting the ride height on my S, and measured the rear camber: They are reading -3Deg & -0.98Deg. Reading the Steve Heath book they ask for +1.25Deg, but apart from shimming the trailing arm to hub with a wedge, am I correct that there's no other way of fixing the rear camber?
In general, what is the effect of a) having a negative camber, and b) having differing cambers? i.e. is this something that needs fixing or, not being a racing driver, I'm really not going to notice?
Thanks, Richard.
In general, what is the effect of a) having a negative camber, and b) having differing cambers? i.e. is this something that needs fixing or, not being a racing driver, I'm really not going to notice?
Thanks, Richard.
Thanks for the replies -
I'm using two right angles to obtain a vertical reference line, aligning this up with the centre of the wheel and then using a vernier to measure the difference at the top and bottom of the alloy wheel. Nothing really flash, and I forgot to round up to 1Deg. I'm not trying to set up the ideal car, but interested in the process and double checking my attempts at setting up the shocks. The ride height was very low, so I've now adjusted this (170F,180R) and this has removed much of the discrepancy - I'll re-measure it next week. Tyre forces are (FR=250kg, FR=265kg, BL=230kg, BR=230kg) and so am happy with the results.
EXCEPT:
Rich, I was planning to take it over to Southampton wheel alignment centre after the ride height was set - it was riding ridiculously low. However, I took five minutes to inspect the FUEL HOSES (as you suggested). Every single pipe I can see is cracked and I've got some strange gloopy substance on the outside (I've posted pictures and full account on the facebook page).
It's now off the road and I'll replace the hoses (when I know what to replace them with!) and swap the gear lever at the same time as I've got to drop the exhaust.
I'm using two right angles to obtain a vertical reference line, aligning this up with the centre of the wheel and then using a vernier to measure the difference at the top and bottom of the alloy wheel. Nothing really flash, and I forgot to round up to 1Deg. I'm not trying to set up the ideal car, but interested in the process and double checking my attempts at setting up the shocks. The ride height was very low, so I've now adjusted this (170F,180R) and this has removed much of the discrepancy - I'll re-measure it next week. Tyre forces are (FR=250kg, FR=265kg, BL=230kg, BR=230kg) and so am happy with the results.
EXCEPT:
Rich, I was planning to take it over to Southampton wheel alignment centre after the ride height was set - it was riding ridiculously low. However, I took five minutes to inspect the FUEL HOSES (as you suggested). Every single pipe I can see is cracked and I've got some strange gloopy substance on the outside (I've posted pictures and full account on the facebook page).
It's now off the road and I'll replace the hoses (when I know what to replace them with!) and swap the gear lever at the same time as I've got to drop the exhaust.
Edited by rtg on Monday 16th May 10:30
The measurements were on a brick driveway, which previously I've laid a long straight edge to check the levels. The chassis was leveled as part of the ride height adjustment and checked against the central runners. But I take your point - there's loads of sources of error in the measurement.
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