Overheating issues
Discussion
Not been on here for awhile as all has been good in TVR world. However, went for a drive on the hottest day of the year, and whilst parked in gridlock, noticed increase on temp gauge. Normally, my car is fixed smacked bang in the middle of the
Gauge with no fluctuation. Anyway, turns out fan is not coming on. So, I have done some quick checks, I have put a fly lead across the pins on the otter switch (if that's what it is called) with engine running. I was hoping this would switch the fan on, but nothing. Does this indicate a broken fan?
Can't get anywhere near to fan to check it. I assume the bonnet needs to come off for that!
Thanks for any guidance.
Gauge with no fluctuation. Anyway, turns out fan is not coming on. So, I have done some quick checks, I have put a fly lead across the pins on the otter switch (if that's what it is called) with engine running. I was hoping this would switch the fan on, but nothing. Does this indicate a broken fan?
Can't get anywhere near to fan to check it. I assume the bonnet needs to come off for that!
Thanks for any guidance.
Good advice Gents. I took a few photos, but haven't got the IT skill to get them off my phone onto this laptop, particularly as my mate has just loaded Windows 10 onto it last night.
Anyway, I dropped the fuse box into passenger footwell, and straight away noticed a molten mass of plastic where a 25 amp fuse used to be. I pulled it out and replaced it. Then took the wires off the otter switch and joined them together, ignition on, and the fan sparked into life!!.
Don't know what caused the fuse to melt, so will need to keep an eye on it, but car now back in action.
Strangely, despite condition of the fuse, once I scraped some carbon off one of the pins, it still had continuity!!
The unsurprising thing was that this 25 amp fuse is not allocated to anything according to the bible for S3's, but I keep hearing that TVR wiring is a law unto itself.
So, for now, all is sorted. Thanks to all for the help.
Anyway, I dropped the fuse box into passenger footwell, and straight away noticed a molten mass of plastic where a 25 amp fuse used to be. I pulled it out and replaced it. Then took the wires off the otter switch and joined them together, ignition on, and the fan sparked into life!!.
Don't know what caused the fuse to melt, so will need to keep an eye on it, but car now back in action.
Strangely, despite condition of the fuse, once I scraped some carbon off one of the pins, it still had continuity!!
The unsurprising thing was that this 25 amp fuse is not allocated to anything according to the bible for S3's, but I keep hearing that TVR wiring is a law unto itself.
So, for now, all is sorted. Thanks to all for the help.
Evening all. Well, I've not been using my TVR much lately, but it has been ok temperature wise while I have used it. Unfortunately, this weekend, I got stuck in a traffic jam near home, and the temp gauge started rising again.
Got home, popped the bonnet, alas no sound of fan spinning. So in a bad mood, just put the car away in garage, and as soon as switched ignition off, volcanic eruption of coolant on the garage floor.
So, I would imagine fuse is melted again, but didn't check. Assuming it has, does this indicate a problem with the fan, drawing too much current? Electrics are not my speciality as you can probably tell.
I know I will have to take the bonnet off to even see the fan, but don't want to swap it unless I know that is the problem. Is there anything else to consider before fan transplant? Is there a check I can do on the fan to see if it is faulty?
Thanks
Got home, popped the bonnet, alas no sound of fan spinning. So in a bad mood, just put the car away in garage, and as soon as switched ignition off, volcanic eruption of coolant on the garage floor.
So, I would imagine fuse is melted again, but didn't check. Assuming it has, does this indicate a problem with the fan, drawing too much current? Electrics are not my speciality as you can probably tell.
I know I will have to take the bonnet off to even see the fan, but don't want to swap it unless I know that is the problem. Is there anything else to consider before fan transplant? Is there a check I can do on the fan to see if it is faulty?
Thanks
Good afternoon S fans, I wanted to give an update on my findings, but as usual this spawns more questions, Sorry!
It seems the issue is most likely the quality of contact in the fuse, and the relay. I took some pictures of the relay but it has taken an eternity to transfer them from phone to laptop, so lets see if I can now get them on here:
The Part Number is 070504, but I can't find anything on the internet, if anyone has a good link for relays please? However the holder for the relay and the fuse is also melted so that is a bit more challenging to rectify. I can cut the wires behind the fuse out and solder in an inline fuse, but not sure whether you can buy relays with the holder/base?
Any tips appreciated.
Despite the melted state of fuse and relay holder, they still work (or at least they have done today on a 2 hour test drive), but I know this is something that needs to be sorted as it will probably fail again when I am stranded miles from home, ie, tomorrow in North Wales. See my next post on Roads to try!!
It seems the issue is most likely the quality of contact in the fuse, and the relay. I took some pictures of the relay but it has taken an eternity to transfer them from phone to laptop, so lets see if I can now get them on here:
The Part Number is 070504, but I can't find anything on the internet, if anyone has a good link for relays please? However the holder for the relay and the fuse is also melted so that is a bit more challenging to rectify. I can cut the wires behind the fuse out and solder in an inline fuse, but not sure whether you can buy relays with the holder/base?
Any tips appreciated.
Despite the melted state of fuse and relay holder, they still work (or at least they have done today on a 2 hour test drive), but I know this is something that needs to be sorted as it will probably fail again when I am stranded miles from home, ie, tomorrow in North Wales. See my next post on Roads to try!!
Afternoon all, rather than start a new thread, I did a bit of digging and found this one I started 2 years ago.
At the end of summer last year, I did some electrical work, so the cooling fan power is separate from the fusebox. Got an new inline fuse and new relay and holder, so hopefully any bad connections will not cause the melting plastic I have had.
Not had a hot day since doing this, but took the car for a fairly long run today to get the cobwebs off.
Temperature was fine, so when I got home, I decided to leave engine running to see if the cooling fan was working.
Cooling fan came on, and temperature on gauge fixed in the middle, however I waited for the fan to go off, but it just stays on!
Today is cool so if it is staying on today, not looking forward to a hot day (when they eventually come).
So, what are lilkely causes of fan staying on?
Thanks.
At the end of summer last year, I did some electrical work, so the cooling fan power is separate from the fusebox. Got an new inline fuse and new relay and holder, so hopefully any bad connections will not cause the melting plastic I have had.
Not had a hot day since doing this, but took the car for a fairly long run today to get the cobwebs off.
Temperature was fine, so when I got home, I decided to leave engine running to see if the cooling fan was working.
Cooling fan came on, and temperature on gauge fixed in the middle, however I waited for the fan to go off, but it just stays on!
Today is cool so if it is staying on today, not looking forward to a hot day (when they eventually come).
So, what are lilkely causes of fan staying on?
Thanks.
Thanks for the replies.
Its the fact that the switch cut in as expected, and maintained the correct temp (on the gauge anyway) that suggests otter is working. But as the weather was certainly far from warm, and fan stayed on, I am thinking cooling system may not be up to par!
Had a new water pump a few thousand miles ago, so I think I can rule that out. I may try some rad flush to see if anything nasty in the system.
If that doesn't work, possibly change the otter (only a tenner), take rad and fan out for an inspection, etc..
The joys!
Its the fact that the switch cut in as expected, and maintained the correct temp (on the gauge anyway) that suggests otter is working. But as the weather was certainly far from warm, and fan stayed on, I am thinking cooling system may not be up to par!
Had a new water pump a few thousand miles ago, so I think I can rule that out. I may try some rad flush to see if anything nasty in the system.
If that doesn't work, possibly change the otter (only a tenner), take rad and fan out for an inspection, etc..
The joys!
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