Discussion
So I'm reaching fed-up territory with my S3, it just doesn't seem to want to come out to play this summer :-( After sorting a clutch problem that stopped it going into gear a few weeks ago, it started rough running, lurching at low revs and 'farting' when asking for moderate amounts of power. A few people on here suggested changing the fuel filter (now done after a few leak issues) and cleaning the sensor and tracks of the AFMs (completely cleaned 2 spares and replaced the ones that were on there); unfortunately it still isn't running well.
Symptoms are:
1) Engine struggles to catch on start, seems to require a lot of pumping of the pedal and generally only fires with a lot of throttle. There is a smell of fuel when it doesn't catch, but guess that is to be expected.
2) When I get it running, it still runs pretty rough, giving a farting sound most of the time when power is applied and often just idling to a stop.
I've tried using the Gunson Fault Code Reader but all I get is 11 - no fault found; given that my ISCV has been disconnected for the past few years (but still running perfectly), I don't have much faith in its accuracy if it can't even detect that!
Last bit of work I did before this started manifesting was bleeding the clutch, but everything seems to be fine in and around down there, so don't think I have knocked anything.
Anyone got any idea of where to go next? HT leads? Spark plugs? Failing any suggestions that lead to a quickish fix, does anyone know a Cologne V6 expert that I can give it to to sort this and the long term issue that has resulted in the ISCV being disconnected?
Symptoms are:
1) Engine struggles to catch on start, seems to require a lot of pumping of the pedal and generally only fires with a lot of throttle. There is a smell of fuel when it doesn't catch, but guess that is to be expected.
2) When I get it running, it still runs pretty rough, giving a farting sound most of the time when power is applied and often just idling to a stop.
I've tried using the Gunson Fault Code Reader but all I get is 11 - no fault found; given that my ISCV has been disconnected for the past few years (but still running perfectly), I don't have much faith in its accuracy if it can't even detect that!
Last bit of work I did before this started manifesting was bleeding the clutch, but everything seems to be fine in and around down there, so don't think I have knocked anything.
Anyone got any idea of where to go next? HT leads? Spark plugs? Failing any suggestions that lead to a quickish fix, does anyone know a Cologne V6 expert that I can give it to to sort this and the long term issue that has resulted in the ISCV being disconnected?
Still chasing this one unfortunately...
I've spent this afternoon blocking off all of the ancillary sources of air to the plenum and none of it has made a difference. It still requires full throttle to get it to start, runs very rough until revved high a few times and then still doesn't idle that nicely; if left to idle it will just conk out after a few minutes.
Unfortunately my mechanical abilities don't extend to the stuff V8S suggests above, so I'm kinda lost where to go now. Feels like my car has spent most of this years sunny days stuck in the garage!
I've spent this afternoon blocking off all of the ancillary sources of air to the plenum and none of it has made a difference. It still requires full throttle to get it to start, runs very rough until revved high a few times and then still doesn't idle that nicely; if left to idle it will just conk out after a few minutes.
Unfortunately my mechanical abilities don't extend to the stuff V8S suggests above, so I'm kinda lost where to go now. Feels like my car has spent most of this years sunny days stuck in the garage!
I've got 2 new TVR intake hoses ordered so hopefully they will reduce the likelihood of any leaks. In saying that, I have tried spraying a bit of carb cleaner around the likely areas, in addition to completely blocking off supplies of air to the plenum with no luck at all. I've also measure the voltages for the TPS, AFMs and temperature sensor and all are operating within the limits of the diagnostics article (below). The only disrepancy in the figures they give is that (if I'm measuring it correctly) my 0.25 v earth is actually 0.0025v.
I've done key on engine off and engine idle diagnostics tests but neither show up any faults however, the instructions that come with my Gunson fault code reader are so terrible that I have little faith in being able to do the dynamic test correctly. For example, it talks about being prompted to start the engine but doesn't say what this prompt is. It also talks about the LED on the left of the display, which it doesn't have, so not ideal! The fact the idle test doesn't show up any errors codes despite being disconnceted also doesn't fill me with confidence!
I can get the car to start every time but it requires me to hold full throttle until it catches. Sometimes it will then idle ok (but eventually cut out) sometimes it runs rough as a dog and will splutter out instantly. Sadly starting to think I might be out of my depth here, but have little faith in a modern mechanic knowing what to do with it either!
http://www.gbsportscar.com/TVR%20Body%20Off/wiring...
I've done key on engine off and engine idle diagnostics tests but neither show up any faults however, the instructions that come with my Gunson fault code reader are so terrible that I have little faith in being able to do the dynamic test correctly. For example, it talks about being prompted to start the engine but doesn't say what this prompt is. It also talks about the LED on the left of the display, which it doesn't have, so not ideal! The fact the idle test doesn't show up any errors codes despite being disconnceted also doesn't fill me with confidence!
I can get the car to start every time but it requires me to hold full throttle until it catches. Sometimes it will then idle ok (but eventually cut out) sometimes it runs rough as a dog and will splutter out instantly. Sadly starting to think I might be out of my depth here, but have little faith in a modern mechanic knowing what to do with it either!
http://www.gbsportscar.com/TVR%20Body%20Off/wiring...
Thanks Pete (I'm also Pete btw), having just removed the HT leads, tested them with the multimeter, replaced them with an old set which I also tested with a multimeter etc, I can pretty confidently rule out another part of the system.
I like your idea of spraying starter down the intake, I will try that this week. I've also got some new intake pipes on the way that should rule out any air leak around there (though carb cleaner test would suggest that there isn't a problem) so will try it then. I've also got a temperature probe on my multimeter so will sheck its range and give that a crack during the week if it is up to the task!
Thanks again for your help Pete. I did buy this in part to learn a bit about mechanics so can't complain too much, but this summer hasn't been the best and is really frustrating me now. On the plus side, I'm cleaning as I go, so it is looking progressively nicer under the bonnet!
I like your idea of spraying starter down the intake, I will try that this week. I've also got some new intake pipes on the way that should rule out any air leak around there (though carb cleaner test would suggest that there isn't a problem) so will try it then. I've also got a temperature probe on my multimeter so will sheck its range and give that a crack during the week if it is up to the task!
Thanks again for your help Pete. I did buy this in part to learn a bit about mechanics so can't complain too much, but this summer hasn't been the best and is really frustrating me now. On the plus side, I'm cleaning as I go, so it is looking progressively nicer under the bonnet!
Well I'm making slow progress on this one...
Squirting a bit of carb cleaner down the AFMs almost killed the engine and a spark plug check last weekend showed they are all pretty badly dry fouled so I've been leaning towards over-fuelling as being the cause. After cleaning up all the sparks plugs I tested them and am getting a good spark all around so I don't think it is anything ignition wise.
I purchased a cheap fuel pressure tester off eBay and it seems to be pretty close to the 2.5 bar (3 under vacuum) that the Ford Diagnostics article suggests, so I don't think incorrect fuel pressure is the cause. However, in chasing down a brand new electrical gremlin (more about that one later if I can't solve it!) I found that if one of the electrical connectors in the foot well was touched or wiggled then the fuel pump would prime with the KOEO. Clearly there was a dodgy connection there which I HOPE was causing the rough running (maybe fuel pump cutting out which wasn't enough to provide pressure under load?).
I need to go for a test drive to see how it is going now but need to get the gremlin in the electric mirrors sorted which has caused my volt me to drop to zero. One step forward, two back...
Squirting a bit of carb cleaner down the AFMs almost killed the engine and a spark plug check last weekend showed they are all pretty badly dry fouled so I've been leaning towards over-fuelling as being the cause. After cleaning up all the sparks plugs I tested them and am getting a good spark all around so I don't think it is anything ignition wise.
I purchased a cheap fuel pressure tester off eBay and it seems to be pretty close to the 2.5 bar (3 under vacuum) that the Ford Diagnostics article suggests, so I don't think incorrect fuel pressure is the cause. However, in chasing down a brand new electrical gremlin (more about that one later if I can't solve it!) I found that if one of the electrical connectors in the foot well was touched or wiggled then the fuel pump would prime with the KOEO. Clearly there was a dodgy connection there which I HOPE was causing the rough running (maybe fuel pump cutting out which wasn't enough to provide pressure under load?).
I need to go for a test drive to see how it is going now but need to get the gremlin in the electric mirrors sorted which has caused my volt me to drop to zero. One step forward, two back...
Got the electrical gremlin sorted (put down to a short in the electric mirror joystick) so managed to get the car out on the road. Seemed fine for the first 15 mins but once fully up to temp it starts coughing and kangarooing again. The connector in the foot well seemed to be behaving itself fine and the fuel pump primes every time I turn the key, so don't think that is the issue.
It was running very rough by the time I got it home and couldn't even get it into the garage it was that bad. I tried a bunch of times to get it started but it would run rough and die as soon as I took my foot off the gas. Interestingly resetting the ECU by removing the power for 5 mins allowed me to start it and get it in the garage sounding like it was running ok.
I'm really running out of ideas with this one now. I think I'm going to have to be brave and take it for a drive with the fuel pressure gauge attached to see if the pressure is dropping out such that it is being starved of fuel under load. Now that it may be temp or ECU related, does anyone else have any ideas what could be causing my troubles? It is effectively unusable now and I'm not convinced it would even drive for long enough to get it to a garage that knows what they are doing, so I'm stuck! :-(
It was running very rough by the time I got it home and couldn't even get it into the garage it was that bad. I tried a bunch of times to get it started but it would run rough and die as soon as I took my foot off the gas. Interestingly resetting the ECU by removing the power for 5 mins allowed me to start it and get it in the garage sounding like it was running ok.
I'm really running out of ideas with this one now. I think I'm going to have to be brave and take it for a drive with the fuel pressure gauge attached to see if the pressure is dropping out such that it is being starved of fuel under load. Now that it may be temp or ECU related, does anyone else have any ideas what could be causing my troubles? It is effectively unusable now and I'm not convinced it would even drive for long enough to get it to a garage that knows what they are doing, so I'm stuck! :-(
Yip, still running rough although I've had a couple of other projects on the go that have kept me from looking further into it. Still want to test the fuel pressure on the road (little bit nervous about that one and the risk of a fuel leak!) and to test the manifold temperatures to see if one is significantly colder than the others.
Thanks for checking up though, standby for update in the coming weeks!
Thanks for checking up though, standby for update in the coming weeks!
Sorry folks, been chaotic few months but time to get back on this and get it sorted!
So doing a search on the internet everyone seems to suggest that cleaning fuel injectors is not for the amateur, especially not if you want to know it is done properly to rule out a problem. Is it just a case of get it to a garage and let them do it?
I still want to do an on-road fuel pressure test (see separate thread) to rule out that and when it isn't raining on the weekend, I'll take it out until I have a problem and measure manifold temperatures to see if that indicates one of the cylinders isn't pulling its weight.
Someone from work said he had an identical problem (but on an entirely different engine) recommended replacing the rotor arm; anyone with 2.9i think it is worth getting a new one and replacing it?
Thanks for your continued help. I think I might be nearing the limits of my ability/patience sorting this, so if the above fails then I'll have to take it to a garage and hand them large quantities of money to sort. Anyone got any recommendations in the Bucks/Berks/Oxon area?
So doing a search on the internet everyone seems to suggest that cleaning fuel injectors is not for the amateur, especially not if you want to know it is done properly to rule out a problem. Is it just a case of get it to a garage and let them do it?
I still want to do an on-road fuel pressure test (see separate thread) to rule out that and when it isn't raining on the weekend, I'll take it out until I have a problem and measure manifold temperatures to see if that indicates one of the cylinders isn't pulling its weight.
Someone from work said he had an identical problem (but on an entirely different engine) recommended replacing the rotor arm; anyone with 2.9i think it is worth getting a new one and replacing it?
Thanks for your continued help. I think I might be nearing the limits of my ability/patience sorting this, so if the above fails then I'll have to take it to a garage and hand them large quantities of money to sort. Anyone got any recommendations in the Bucks/Berks/Oxon area?
Totally agree about your last statement. I did partially get the car to get my hands dirty, but I'm at the point I'm happy to pay a pro to take it and try and sort it so it is ready in time for spring. Unfortunately the local garages I spoke to seemed to be clueless about anything you can't plug a modern diagnostics tool into and had less of an idea than me about it (and that is saying something!).
Thanks for the link to the rotor arm; I'll try that, then fuel injectors, then a wheelbarrow of cash!
Thanks for the link to the rotor arm; I'll try that, then fuel injectors, then a wheelbarrow of cash!
Well I'm not brave enough just yet to say it's completely fixed however, having replaced the rotor arm, given the plugs another clean and poured a bunch of injector cleaner into the fuel, I took it out for an hour and a half today with no signs of the rough running. Only time will tell how long it stays that way for though! In cleaning the garage I also found 6 spare injectors that I got off Mark when he sold me the car, so I'll probably send them off to get refurbished so that if I need to change them in future I have a fully functioning set good to go.
Next projects are:
1) Fix the clutch which seems to empty itself of fluid over time and require regular bleeding. Some signs in the footwell that it may be the master, but will likely change to Landrover slave and master with flexihose at the same time if I can convince myself I'm up for the task!
2) Reinvigorate search for cause of random idle problem with ISCV fitted; first port of call is to fit a diode into the wire which runs to pin 21 of the ECU.
3) Sort out headlight surrounds which I've not fitted right and look awful.
4) General tidy up.
Lots to keep me busy there over spring autumn, but will no doubt be marred by some unscheduled maintenance at some point!
Thanks for you help everyone!
Next projects are:
1) Fix the clutch which seems to empty itself of fluid over time and require regular bleeding. Some signs in the footwell that it may be the master, but will likely change to Landrover slave and master with flexihose at the same time if I can convince myself I'm up for the task!
2) Reinvigorate search for cause of random idle problem with ISCV fitted; first port of call is to fit a diode into the wire which runs to pin 21 of the ECU.
3) Sort out headlight surrounds which I've not fitted right and look awful.
4) General tidy up.
Lots to keep me busy there over spring autumn, but will no doubt be marred by some unscheduled maintenance at some point!
Thanks for you help everyone!
Well I was right to be cautious about having fixed the rough running problem as it came back with gusto this afternoon. I had it out for a good run yesterday in the searing heat and after an hour today the rough running symptoms reappeared unfortunately. Starts to 'fart' under load and runs very lumpy even with the foot off that gas. Decided to pull over and get the AA out to look at it and he wasn't able to help at all, trying the usual suspects like the TPS, eng temp sensor etc without any luck. He seems to think it is an overfuelling problem (certainly smells like it!) but wasn't able to shed any light on why that would suddenly start when it got hot. It is almost like the heat is causing something to break down and tell the engine it needs a bunch of fuel. When you can get it running, it seems to run best at high revs, but is rubbish at 3000, farting and popping away.
Any ideas what might be causing overfuelling, particularly when hot? Previous multimeter investigation suggests the temp sensor is outputting fine. Alternatively, anyone know of a Cologne 2.9i genius that could sort me out with a wheelbarrow of cash?!
Any ideas what might be causing overfuelling, particularly when hot? Previous multimeter investigation suggests the temp sensor is outputting fine. Alternatively, anyone know of a Cologne 2.9i genius that could sort me out with a wheelbarrow of cash?!
Hi all, wow, 2 years since I started this thread and I'm still trying to pin point what the problem is :-(
So to update, I've had Lee Boreham helping me with this and we have taken onboard many of the points above without any luck. We've tried both the logical diagnostics approach and the 'replace-almost-everything' approach without luck. So far we (or rather the good man Lee!) have:
1) Replaced most of the ignition system, including dizzy cap and rotor arm, ignition coil and leads.
2) Replaced the old injectors with a different, completely refurbished set.
3) Sorted out a few electrical gremlins in the footwell.
4) Added the diode in the wiring to the ISCV which for some reason it didn't have before.
5) Replaced all the induction gaskets to try and eliminate air leaks (currently trying to source a smoke machine to ensure that it is all zipped up tight).
6) Replaced the fuel pressure regulator and measured to ensure that the fuel pressure is correct and consistent while it has the rough running problem.
7) Replaced the fuel filter.
8) Reset the timing to 12 deg.
9) Tried new/different ISCVs, TPS etc
10) Probably a bunch of other stuff I am forgetting right now too!
While I'm sure all of the above will not be wasted effort and will serve the car well in the long term, it still hasn't cured the extreme rough running. While it started off as occasional burbling and hesitation under load, it is now pretty consistent failure to start with lots of cracking and full throttle required to get it to catch even slightly. It will then only run very rough with a LOT of throttle applied.
Lee is currently testing the AFMs on a scope (at the suggestion of Frank Massey, the writer of the diagnostics article from Car Mechanic over 20 years ago), but would be eternally grateful to anyone that can add any fresh ideas to the mix which finally gets this sorted!
So to update, I've had Lee Boreham helping me with this and we have taken onboard many of the points above without any luck. We've tried both the logical diagnostics approach and the 'replace-almost-everything' approach without luck. So far we (or rather the good man Lee!) have:
1) Replaced most of the ignition system, including dizzy cap and rotor arm, ignition coil and leads.
2) Replaced the old injectors with a different, completely refurbished set.
3) Sorted out a few electrical gremlins in the footwell.
4) Added the diode in the wiring to the ISCV which for some reason it didn't have before.
5) Replaced all the induction gaskets to try and eliminate air leaks (currently trying to source a smoke machine to ensure that it is all zipped up tight).
6) Replaced the fuel pressure regulator and measured to ensure that the fuel pressure is correct and consistent while it has the rough running problem.
7) Replaced the fuel filter.
8) Reset the timing to 12 deg.
9) Tried new/different ISCVs, TPS etc
10) Probably a bunch of other stuff I am forgetting right now too!
While I'm sure all of the above will not be wasted effort and will serve the car well in the long term, it still hasn't cured the extreme rough running. While it started off as occasional burbling and hesitation under load, it is now pretty consistent failure to start with lots of cracking and full throttle required to get it to catch even slightly. It will then only run very rough with a LOT of throttle applied.
Lee is currently testing the AFMs on a scope (at the suggestion of Frank Massey, the writer of the diagnostics article from Car Mechanic over 20 years ago), but would be eternally grateful to anyone that can add any fresh ideas to the mix which finally gets this sorted!
Thanks guys, yip, tried swapping the connectors around on the AFMs, even tried different AFMs as I have some spares.
I haven't tried the Star tester, but I have tried several compatible fault code readers (such as the Gunson) but with no success. When I had previously asked about this, I was advised that the other fault code readers do the same as the 'official' Star tester; is that not the case such that I should specifically locate the Star tester? If so, anyone know who it is that lends it out?
I haven't tried the Star tester, but I have tried several compatible fault code readers (such as the Gunson) but with no success. When I had previously asked about this, I was advised that the other fault code readers do the same as the 'official' Star tester; is that not the case such that I should specifically locate the Star tester? If so, anyone know who it is that lends it out?
Hi all, a quick update having received the STAR tester from Philpot...
The random high idle with the ISCV plugged in seems to have made a resurgence today, so we weren't able to complete all the tests however:
- with the key on-engine off test, we got a code 11 - no fault found. I head various solenoids clicking etc which I don't think I had heard on other testers, so had a bit more confidence that it was doing the business. Interestingly it doesn't return a fault code (46) with the ISCV unplugged, so suspect this is only checked as part of the dynamic engine running tests. Unplugging the TPS correctly generated a code 35, so gave a degree of confidence in the system.
- For the key on engine running test with ISCV unplugged, we correctly got a 46, (ISCV failure). Plugging it in with the engine maintaining around 2000 rpm (symptomatic of the long-standing idle issue) we got a code 16 ("Vane air meter number 2"), for which it says to "check base idle speed". The engine then cuts out as the ECU seemingly tries to conduct more dynamic engine tests. Thinking positively, the STAR tester is at least identifying that things ain't right, we now just need to work out why!
Despite recently changing the intake plenum gasket, our thinking is that it might indicate that an excessive amount of air is still being sucked in from somewhere. A number of you have said that ignition shouldn't be sustainable with the ISCV unplugged, and for the majority of time it is, so the next plan is to work out why that is. I'm gonna try get my hands on a smoke tester to flush out where any leaks might be.
As far as these go:
a mechanical problem (pistons, valve train, blocked exhaust etc) - nope, these are a bit out of my ability to check, so I haven't done them. We'll look at them post air leak checks
a fuel system problem - difficult to confirm 100% that there isn't an issue, but having replaced filters, injectors, fuel pressure regulator and confirmed the fuel pressure looks to be in limits, I'm hoping it is sorted.
an ignition problem - we have replaced pretty much everything in the ignition system and it gives a very good spark, so not likely to be ignition.
The random high idle with the ISCV plugged in seems to have made a resurgence today, so we weren't able to complete all the tests however:
- with the key on-engine off test, we got a code 11 - no fault found. I head various solenoids clicking etc which I don't think I had heard on other testers, so had a bit more confidence that it was doing the business. Interestingly it doesn't return a fault code (46) with the ISCV unplugged, so suspect this is only checked as part of the dynamic engine running tests. Unplugging the TPS correctly generated a code 35, so gave a degree of confidence in the system.
- For the key on engine running test with ISCV unplugged, we correctly got a 46, (ISCV failure). Plugging it in with the engine maintaining around 2000 rpm (symptomatic of the long-standing idle issue) we got a code 16 ("Vane air meter number 2"), for which it says to "check base idle speed". The engine then cuts out as the ECU seemingly tries to conduct more dynamic engine tests. Thinking positively, the STAR tester is at least identifying that things ain't right, we now just need to work out why!
Despite recently changing the intake plenum gasket, our thinking is that it might indicate that an excessive amount of air is still being sucked in from somewhere. A number of you have said that ignition shouldn't be sustainable with the ISCV unplugged, and for the majority of time it is, so the next plan is to work out why that is. I'm gonna try get my hands on a smoke tester to flush out where any leaks might be.
As far as these go:
a mechanical problem (pistons, valve train, blocked exhaust etc) - nope, these are a bit out of my ability to check, so I haven't done them. We'll look at them post air leak checks
a fuel system problem - difficult to confirm 100% that there isn't an issue, but having replaced filters, injectors, fuel pressure regulator and confirmed the fuel pressure looks to be in limits, I'm hoping it is sorted.
an ignition problem - we have replaced pretty much everything in the ignition system and it gives a very good spark, so not likely to be ignition.
Well the search continues...
I acquired a smoke machine (one of the cheap Autool ones of eBay which actually seem to work pretty well!) and disappointingly it didn't reveal the panacea air leak that we were hoping. We plugged the machine into air sources (brake servo hose, intake, plenum hose) and there weren't any great leaks on engine side of the throttle body. There is definitely a small leak out of the throttle body spindle, so Lee has cleaned up the spare which seals better. There was also air leaking in around the intake hoses so currently trying to source some new ones, as never been a fan of the sprung-steel reinforced type ones.
It is at least reassuring that Lee's work in replacing the plenum and fuel rail gaskets has got it all sealed up tightly, but we were hoping that we saw massive Indian smoke signals pointing to where the problem might lie! We'll get the throttle body and the hoses sealed up properly and then re-run the smoke test and STAR tests and put the thinking cap back on!
I acquired a smoke machine (one of the cheap Autool ones of eBay which actually seem to work pretty well!) and disappointingly it didn't reveal the panacea air leak that we were hoping. We plugged the machine into air sources (brake servo hose, intake, plenum hose) and there weren't any great leaks on engine side of the throttle body. There is definitely a small leak out of the throttle body spindle, so Lee has cleaned up the spare which seals better. There was also air leaking in around the intake hoses so currently trying to source some new ones, as never been a fan of the sprung-steel reinforced type ones.
It is at least reassuring that Lee's work in replacing the plenum and fuel rail gaskets has got it all sealed up tightly, but we were hoping that we saw massive Indian smoke signals pointing to where the problem might lie! We'll get the throttle body and the hoses sealed up properly and then re-run the smoke test and STAR tests and put the thinking cap back on!
Thanks Tom, unfortunately I don't have much choice but to be persistent with it; I can't find any professional that sounds like they might know how to solve it so the only other option is to sell it as a going concern which I don't want to do given the work that has been done on it - I'm determined to believe that I'll have years of great running with it once I can get this sorted!
There is a definitely possibility of overfuelling but it won't be due to the temp sensor - I've tested the one that was in there and a new one with an ohm metre across a variety of temperatures and they were operating correctly (checked back at the ECU also).
It's a real head-scratcher!
There is a definitely possibility of overfuelling but it won't be due to the temp sensor - I've tested the one that was in there and a new one with an ohm metre across a variety of temperatures and they were operating correctly (checked back at the ECU also).
It's a real head-scratcher!
Thanks for the continued suggestions here folks, I was out of the country for a bit, so diagnostics were slowed a little. Looks like we might have made some progress today; Lee had already replaced the valley gasket while I was away and we had tried just about everything except the ECU.
I sent it off to ATP Electronics to have it refurbished who noted that it had a fault in the idle channel. We refitted it today and it certainly seems to have made a huge difference - even with it only 3 odd degrees outside it starts first time every time and sits at a reasonable 900- 1000 ish RPM. We ran all the STAR diagnostics tests and it completes all of them, controlling RPM as it should in the dynamic tests and returning a beautiful code 11 (no faults found) every time! It's 6 months past its MOT so the only thing left to do is get it to a garage to fine tune the mixture (we've had AFMs in/out and cleaned), get the gearbox oil changed, throw it into an MOT and then see how it does on the road!
Will report back over the coming weeks, but looks like persistence might have paid here; I'll reserve the rest of my excitement until it has done more time on the road wheels turning than it has on a recovery truck though!
I sent it off to ATP Electronics to have it refurbished who noted that it had a fault in the idle channel. We refitted it today and it certainly seems to have made a huge difference - even with it only 3 odd degrees outside it starts first time every time and sits at a reasonable 900- 1000 ish RPM. We ran all the STAR diagnostics tests and it completes all of them, controlling RPM as it should in the dynamic tests and returning a beautiful code 11 (no faults found) every time! It's 6 months past its MOT so the only thing left to do is get it to a garage to fine tune the mixture (we've had AFMs in/out and cleaned), get the gearbox oil changed, throw it into an MOT and then see how it does on the road!
Will report back over the coming weeks, but looks like persistence might have paid here; I'll reserve the rest of my excitement until it has done more time on the road wheels turning than it has on a recovery truck though!
Things are looking positive... took for it's MOT the other day and it seems went through that with the exhaust mounts being the only advisory; turned out to be more than advisory, as by the time I'd got the 1 mile back to Lee's they had broken and had the exhaust dragging on the ground a bit! It also felt a bit flat when I put the foot down.
So I was back at Lee's on Friday and we put new exhaust mounts on, adjusted the timing to a precise 12deg BDTC and had a bit of a fiddle with the mixture and it ran about as well as it has ever run in my possession! All that is left is to pick it up this weekend and get driving it!
So I was back at Lee's on Friday and we put new exhaust mounts on, adjusted the timing to a precise 12deg BDTC and had a bit of a fiddle with the mixture and it ran about as well as it has ever run in my possession! All that is left is to pick it up this weekend and get driving it!
Gassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff