Alloy Rads - Should I give up?

[v8s4me]

My 2nd very expensive RadTech alloy rad has started to weep. The first one lasted less than a year, and this one almost exactly 5 years. I have been offered a replacement on excellent terms but the cost would be roughly the same as a re-core on an old V8S rad. Considering the mileage I do, this is ridiculous.

What would you do?

Does anyone have their rad out at the moment and would be able to tell me the distance between the centres of the locating pegs on the bottom frame of the rad? (That piece is missing on my old rad). Alternatively, does anyone have one of these plates in return for some drinking vouchers?

I'll be going to a rad repair firm tomorrow to see exactly how much a re-core would be.

Thanks in advance

[v8s4me]

LawrieS said:

... Are they the manufacturers for ACT?.....

Yes, but to be fair to ACT they have offered a replacement on very fair terms.

LawrieS said:

....
I have my old S3C rad to hand if that's likely to be the same I can go and get the tape out?

Not sure if they are the same, but if you can let me have the measurement I can see if it looks similar to the damaged alloy one I have.

[v8s4me]

LawrieS said:

...It's a bit dark in my shed but something like 555mm, ...

That corresponds to my old one (alloy rad No 1) at 555mm. Would you mind having another look tomorrow and let me know if the pegs equidistant from the outer edges of the rad (or either side of the centre line).

Many thanks

[v8s4me]

I don't think powder coating would make any difference, apart perhaps from making it less efficient.

Rad 1 started weeping from one of the weld seams after about 3000 miles, this one seems to be weeping from where the core joins the end tank. Personally, rightly or wrongly, I've come to the conclusion that the alloy rad can't handle the combination of repeated expansion and contraction in a confined space and the vibration. The combination of these two factors leads to fatigue in the joints and failure. Just my personal opinion based on two failed rads and what I've see happen to other owner's cars with alloy rads. Two failed rads with less than 10,000 miles in 5 years is stupid.

If the re-core is less than the alloy replacement, I'm going back to old technology.

[v8s4me]

greyhulk said:

I wonder if getting it anodized is a possibility?

That wouldn't make one last any longer is fatigue around the welds is the cause.

[v8s4me]

LeTVR - thanks for the drawing, I'll take it with me later. The V8S has a different mounting arrangement on the top.....




Question for Phillpot - when you had your old V8S rad re-cored, did you have a different bottom plate put on? If not then the locating arrangement on the bottom of the rad is the same for the V8S and the S3.

[v8s4me]

mentall said:

..... didn't lose any measurable water during my three weeks of more-or-less successful motoring, but does show stains and drips (oo-er!).....

Leave it alone then (and maybe so as Mike suggests with sealant)

My old copper one is now with a local repair firm and they will make a new bottom plate if they can't source one from the core supplier. If anyone does have an old bottom plate though, either serviceable or scrap to use a template, please let me know.

The re-core cost will be the same as a replacement rad deal, so it's time to go back to "old-skool"

[v8s4me]

mentall said:

...... Here's the corpse....

I didn't realise it was that bad!

mentall said:

....So the question is the same as the OP's: new alloy rad, or recore?

Re-core at £200 or a fragile, limited life-span alloy one for £400? No-brainer

[v8s4me]

TurboTony said:

Joe..Does the alloy rad really give you any cooling benefits? ...

I'm not convinced it does. The fans seem to be on a lot of the time.